Security Six

[JonInWA]

I hate to keep bugging you but, would the finish wearing off concern you? What else (and how) would you check for? I’m not sure how to check for end shake or timing.

I may swing back by and pick it up before work.

Finish would be of far secondary concern to me opposed to operation.

A series of basic checks for -Six revolvers: (All thanks to Rugerforum.net long-time participant, moderator and gunsmith Iowegan, and found in "Iowegan's Book of Knowledge for the Ruger Security-Six, Speed-Six, Service -Six, and Police Service-Six" pp. 2-4:

To check for Endshake: With an automotive (or gunsmithing) set of feeler gauges, hold the cylinder to the rear, and slide the thickest gap gauge blade that will fit between the rear barrel surface and the front face of the cylinder with considerable friction. This will be the Barrel/Cylinder (B/C) gap, and should be between .004" and .008" with .006" being optimum.

Repeat the same test only this time hold the cylinder forward and insert the thickest blade that fits with minimal friction. Subtract this measurement from the first (B/C) one; the result will be your cylinder endshake, which should be between .001" to .004."

To check for Headspace, chamber a virgin empty case in a chamber and line up with the firing pin hole. While holding the cylinder firmly to the rear, slide the thickest gap gauge blade that will fit between the case head (rear of the cartridge) and the recoil shield (frame). It should measure between .008" and .012," with .010" optimum..

To check for Timing, swing the cylinder open and look for the cylinder latch that is located on the bottom flat area of the frame, just above the trigger. Now close the cylinder and rotate it slightly until the culinder locks up. Watch the cylinder latch from the right side as you begin cocking the hammer. The cylinder latch should drop and free the cylinder before the cylinder actually begins to rotate. Do the same test in double-action by pulling the trigger and watching the cylinder latch. Again, the latch should drop before the cylinder begins to rotate. If timing is slow, the cylinder will try to rotate before it is released, which will cause a bind in DA trigger pull or a hard cocking start for SA. A worn or out-of-spec trigger or cylinder latch will cause late initial timing.

Carry-Up timing: Carry-up is a condition where the cylinder is supposed to lock up near the end of a hammer stroke. To test, watch the cylinder latch and slowly cock the hammer. The latch should drop, then pop back up and drag on the cylinder. The cylinder latch should engage a cylinder lock notch and lock the cylinder in place BEFORE the hammer is fully cocked in all six positions. Again, in DA mode, slowly pull the trigger and make sure the cylinder locks up in each of the six positions before the hammer releases. An excessively premature carry-up can cause a trigger pull gag near the end of the trigger stroke. Late carry-up could allow the gun to fire before the cylinder is locked. Normally, -Sixes tend to carry up a bit early. A pawl that is too long causes premature carry-up. Late lock-up is caused by a worn or out-of-spec pawl or extractor ratchets.

Trigger pull: Normal SA is 6 lbs, DA is 14 lbs.

Push-Off: The sear is designed to hold the hammer cocked in the SA mode. If the sear is altered or defective, the sear could release by pushing on the hammer. To test, cock the hammer and apply considerable forward pressure to the top of the hammer. Do not over do it, or you will break the sear. If the hammer pushes off, you'll need to repair the sear or replace the hammer.

Cylinder Lock-Up: To test, dry fire the gun and hold the trigger all the way back to simulate the condition of the gun when fired. Rock the cylinder from side-to-side. A few thousandths play is normal. If side play is excessive, a new cylinder latch may be needed.

Best, Jon

[Poconnor]

Beat up security sixes are often one of the better deals in used guns out there. I’m talking about blued guns that were carried a lot but not shot a lot. I had two such examples. A blued 4” and a blued 6”. I traded them for a NIB SS speed six postal gun with the 3” barrel

[JonInWA]

I agree; my stainless 4" Security had some minimal-to-moderate exterior wear when I got it used (from a reputable LGS), which was easily spiffed up by a Mother's Mag Wheel hand-polishing session, taking less than an hour as I recall-including field-stripping and re-assembly when finished.

Best, Jon

[TheNewbie]

Went back on my way to work and offered $225 for it. It’s a consignment item, so we will see.

There is some rust on the outside of the cylinder but I didn’t notice any pitting or cracks.

[Dave T]

I've been shooting handguns for over 50 years and I am baffled by the current concern for "factory support". With one glaring exception my experiences returning handguns to factories has been negative. I've always done better taking it to a competent gunsmith I can talk to face to face. Monday the bolt quit retracting all the way on my 386 NG, locking it up completely. I can guarantee you I'm not sending it back to S&W. They're the ones who put the cheep and now broken part in there in the first place.

As others have said the -Six series Rugers are noted for their toughness and durability. I remember folks back in the last century (boy does than make me feel old - lol) saying the Security Six was the strongest K-frame size offering out there.

Dave

[Hambo]

Went back on my way to work and offered $225 for it. It’s a consignment item, so we will see.

Good! I haven't seen a Security Six in any condition here for less than $500. It's just one man's opinion, but I'd be a buyer even at $300.

[TheNewbie]

Good! I haven't seen a Security Six in any condition here for less than $500. It's just one man's opinion, but I'd be a buyer even at $300.

I agree with you, but I might as well try to get it for less. I am going to do some searching tonight and look at gunsmith work.


Cleaned up and a barrel cut down to 2 inches could make this a nice CCW piece for me. I was shocked at how well it balanced in my hand, much more natural for *me* than a SW Model 66.



I truly appreciate all the help and advice I've been given.

[willie]

Factory support also means the factory continues to supply parts. Ruger for decades would sell few parts to consumers. In any case, rebarrelling revolvers has almost always required factory installation.

If the Ruger in question merely has surface rust, that's of no consequence. Odds are that Bubba has not touched this one. Buy it. If you buy it, love it, and plan to keep this one, PM me to help you find spare parts. You won't need them but will happily search. Hell, in a couple years I might sell you my 100% as new one. Then, this purchase can be spare parts for mine, and your great grandkids will still be shooting. No joke.

[Tactical Black Belt]

I have a 6" blued version that was a bequest from my Dad. He purchased it new in 1979 and it shoots as well now as it did then. It is my favorite recreational revolver and if I came across another one for $300 I would probably snap it up.

[J. J. Magnum]

I started my LEO career with a blued Security Six. I traded up to a Colt after a few months not because the Ruger was bad, but just because I wanted a Colt. When I moved to South Carolina we were issued stainless Service-Six's. It was a fine weapon, and, as was mentioned earlier, they were a dream to take care of. I was the departmental armorer and serviced all the weapons we had; not one breakage or malfunction. I even had one officer who removed the grips and mainspring then cleaned his revolver in his dishwasher. A quick wipe down, lube, and it was back on the street. I don't know that you can find a more serviceable handgun than the Ruger "Six" series.