Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
Done-and thanks for the encouragement and guidance. Pretty straightforward, as you said. I annually remove, clean and re-spring my extractor (the re-springing part is as necessary, which is really probably never, but since Wilson Combat provided me with 2 flavors of their chrome silicon extractor springs {standard and +), last year I removed my OEM Beretta one for the heck of it, and used the standard weight Wilson Combat one-its running just fine).

The firing pin block removal was very straightforward-just punch out the retaining roll pin with a 1/16th" roll pin punch, push down from the top (with a thumb on the rear of the firing pin to preclude it from launching into orbit), and it falls out (there's a small coil spring that tensions it, I removed it as well) and then pulled out the firing pin and firing pin spring (which was a little stubborn, and a Q-Tip was used to pull it out).

All components were de-grunged, cleaned, and lightly lubed with Dri-Slide, a molybdenum disulfate dry film lubrication solution suspended in a liquid carrier-the liquid carrier solution evaporates, and you have an evenly deposited a dry lubricant film that lubricates without serving as a GSR magnet.

There really wasn't all that much accumulated on the firing pin, extractor and locking block, or in the firing pin, firing pin block and extractor chambers. It was worthwhile going in, but probably annually is sufficient for the extractor, and every couple of years for the firing pin/firing pin block. But since it's so easy on the D model, I'll probably just do the full meal deal annually.

Despite that the OEM firing pin spring was running fine, since Wilson Combat had also graciously provided me with one of their chrome silicon firing pin springs, I replaced the OEM one with it (the Tech at BUSA that I spoke with yesterday said that he'd personally never seen or heard of an OEM firing pin spring breaking or losing tensility, but since I was already in there, I might as well just replace the original spring with a new one...). (And yes, I'm keeping the OEM one, just in case...).

After reassembling everything, the extractor retaining pin needs to be re-staked (well, actually, it's the metal on the slide surrounding the extractor pin's hole that needs to be re-staked). Not much metal is required to be moved to accomplish this, and some 92 users have reported that the pin stays in place without re-staking, but I personally always do it. using a couple of hammer taps to a judiciously-placed small flat screwdriver blade, and then retouching with a dab of Birchwood Casey Black paint.

Everytime I go into my Beretta 92, I'm reminded of the quality of the design and manufacturing that went into it. For example, when you re-insert the firing pin locking block and its spring, the firing pin nicely locks the assembly into place, making it easy to re-insert the roll pin used to secure it-no "three-handed drill" necessary (as compared to, say, replacing the extractor and firing pin stop on a 1911, especially a Series 80 firing pin safety on a 1911...). These are simply magnificently designed and manufactured pistols, and ones that we can thoroughly appreciate and use as designed. While my appreciation is more on the pragmatic side, it's is fun participating in the recent 92 Series Renaissance that seems to be occurring, and concurrently appreciating how Bill Wilson, Ernest Langdon and others are applying their efforts to tangibly improve the platform.

I'll concurrently post this info on my 92D Updates thread as well, so followers of that can have things in a one thread package.

Best, Jon
Great write up Jon. As for restaking, I only do it with pistols where experience shows it actually needs restaking. I think most of the time the original factory staking pushes enough steel into the hole that it is unlikely to ever need restaking.

By the way, I very much agree on the mechanical excellence of the Beretta 92 design. I think that, along with the open slide, are the reasons that 92's are so reliable.