Shortening the return or takeup on a LEM kind of defeats the entire purpose of LEM.Originally Posted by Bucky
Shortening the return or takeup on a LEM kind of defeats the entire purpose of LEM.
"For a moment he felt good about this. A moment or two later he felt bad about feeling good about it. Then he felt good about feeling bad about feeling good about it and, satisfied, drove on into the night."
-- Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy --
We’re getting into minutiae I think, but where is the sweet spot of travel for safety vs shootability? I think that’s a good question that everyone has to decide for themselves.
I think shortening the trigger by 1/3 (via 4.1) and the reset by 1/3 (via Gray guns) wouldn’t substantially hurt the “social” aspects of LEM. You still get the visual of the hammer, as well as a good amount of travel, even with the 4.1 kit.
I was thinking more TDA, which was mentioned in the OP.
That being said, I like the V4.1 mod done on my P2000. My P2000SK is still a factory V2, so I can compare side by side.
Too lazy to look it up. What’s the difference in feel between the 4.1 and the TGS?
David S.
This is the most curious portion of the item’s properties
“Converts the action to drive the sear directly off the safety lever – instead of transferring energy through the drop safety catch – for a direct drive connection between the trigger bar and sear”
Bruce is also the consummate shill...
After that whole debacle and the bullshit I went through with his P320 parts not working I decided that my money was better spent elsewhere.
Im on board with GJM's comments. The incremental performance "gain" gleaned from the installation of these parts is in my mind, not worth the money. Buy ammo, go to the range. Im not saying I wouldn't be interested in a trigger KIT for the P30, but just a short reset plate? Meh.
My first thought is: Why would HK design it to drive off the drop safety catch? No free lunch comes to mind.
I'm going to try this out but the price for what you get is keeping me from diving in like an excited kid doing a cannonball into a pool. I knew it was the catch that was making the slop and I had resolved this year to purchase a beater P30L and a few HK45 catches to try to figure out the tolerances to replace it so it was "factory" but not a million dollar part. I honestly think it's the length of the bars and size of the "eyelet" on the catch. But I'll have to compare them once I get them.
I have 3 P30's (P30L V1, P30SK V1, and P30LS V3) and my only problem is the reset. The stacking issue, more of a stall between the take up and small period of travel right before the wall. But the reset is the most important aspect for me because I'm a reset rider. Which is also why LEM is so good for me. But I think what I'm going to do is pick up one of these kits for my P30LS because it already has 3500 rounds through it which makes it "smooth", and put it in there to see if it's good enough to spend another $200 on my LEM guns.
$100 is a lot for what you get and I have spent more on triggers but they're much more substantial kits. This is literally one aftermarket part, and some standard HK parts. Good on them for figuring out the sticking point in the trigger system, but I bet I could pull out the stock unit, have it stoned within tolerances then have it NP3'ed. But we'll see I might be overestimating the simplicity of the work they've done here.
You seem pretty edumacated on how this trigger works. I have taken them apart and swapped LEM for TDA triggers on the P30 system and see how it goes together, but I can't say I really understand the mechanics what actuates what and when. Can you explain it simply? Or do you know of a manual or video that explains it well?
Is there any problem driving the sear the way Gray Guns says they do?
I will take a shot at explaining.
The trigger bar tab (red arrow) pulls on the the bottom of what HK calls the “control lever” (Red arrow). This rotates around the axis of the pin and several things happen consecutively and near simultaneously. The control lever pushes up on the firing pin block (blue arrow), and simultaneously pushes forward on a pin at the bottom of the the “hammer catch” which pivots down so the hammer can fall (green arrow). The hammer catch pushes the “release catch” (aka sear) forward releasing the hammer.
The GrayGuns part replaces the control lever. They claim it “Converts the action to drive the sear directly off the safety lever – instead of transferring energy through the drop safety catch – for a direct drive connection between the trigger bar and sear”
I think that means they don’t use the “control lever” to push the pin on the “hammer catch”, rather driving the hammer catch directly which then drives the sear.
I interpret their use of the term “drop safety catch” to mean the “control lever” which deactivates the firing pin block in the slide.
I have no idea if it is safe.
The back of the hammer catch is normally pushed up to “catch” the hammer on decocking by the sear spring.
Anyway it is a clever system. And it is relatively simple to take apart. But it ain’t a Glock.
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