Apex J-Frame Duty/Carry Spring Kit Review

[echo5charlie]

I thought I'd drop this here even though it is a study of one.

I'm a relative new guy to the j-frame scene, I owned a 638 about 10 years ago. I honestly didn't understand handgun shooting at the time and it did not serve me well. Fast forward to March of this year and I dove back into the j-frame market to fulfill a NPE carry need and I own a 442-1 no-lock. As of now I have 730 rounds down the pipe with 234 of those being +P and at least that many dry-fires. Figure somewhere between 1400 and 1600 times the trigger has been pulled.

I knew of the Apex kit. I felt confident enough in my shooting capabilities to order one and the money and time wouldn't be wasted. I installed it today. Having not opened the side plate of a revolver in MANY years I watched the Apex installation videos several time each so that I could do the parts swap in my head visually. Install time took about 5 minutes.

After reassembly I wasn't floored with the change. In fact, I had to grab a new 442 from a display case and do a side-by-side, I could tell there was *some* difference, but not exactly what. I test fired it with some old Speer Lawman Cleanfire 158 +P (this stuff usually gives misfires) and all rounds went off on the first try.

Will there be an improvement in my shooting? If there is it will be only a slight improvement as the upgrade was not a godly ray of awesome projected on the 442 action. It did make the trigger pull smoother and I no longer have a pronounced hump approximately 3/4 of the way through the trigger pull and I am hoping this will help with me shooting low after two or three cylinders when anticipation sets in.

Was it worth distributor pricing? Sure. I've wasted more money on computer software. Would I buy it again? If that particular J had a really bad trigger, then yes but my 442 really didn't see a noticeable improvement. I *may* be getting an idea of what a good DA j-frame trigger is. As always, YMMV.

[wsr]

Making it smoother and getting rid of the hump would qualify as a noticeable improvement to me

[Zeke38]

Woolf and Apex have always helped triggers on J Frames; in my experience. The geometry of a J frame is so limiting, mastering one is very rewarding. Hang onto the one(s) you master as no two are identical in trigger mechanics.

[medmo]

Any chance you can find, beg or borrow a trigger pull gauge for comparison? Apex says the kit should get you in the 9lb range. Part of the rebound treatment for a S&W smoothe and tune is polishing the rebound and frame contact area to reduce friction. How do those areas look? I use a dremel felt wheel with buffing compound to bring the surfaces to an almost mirror shine rather than stoning. It takes just a few minutes.

[Mark D]

Interesting results. I've been meaning to buy an Apex kit for my 642.

I will probably still get it, but your review has helped constrain my expectations. Thanks.

[rathos]

I put an apex kit in after 2 or 3k rounds in my 442 and I noticed a large difference. I did however also smooth out a lot of the internal surfaces inside the pistol as well. I also had a few of my partners that also carry j-frame back ups dry fire it and they also noticed a large difference, although I fire mine quite a bit more than they do. I will say it doesn't seem a lot lighter, just smoother.

[camsdaddy]

I think it has less effect in a well broken in gun than a new one. I found the kit slowed reset.

[peterb]

I think it has less effect in a well broken in gun than a new one. I found the kit slowed reset.

I tried the Wilson spring kit in a fairly new 442 along with smoothing the rebound slide and the hammer end of the mainspring strut. Liked the 15-lb rebound spring, thought the 13 & 14 made the reset too light. Liked the overall improvement. Debated the reduced power mainspring, finally installed it, no ignition failures so far.

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Custom-...oductinfo/321/

[OlongJohnson]

Part of the rebound treatment for a S&W smoothe and tune is polishing the rebound and frame contact area to reduce friction. How do those areas look? I use a dremel felt wheel with buffing compound to bring the surfaces to an almost mirror shine rather than stoning. It takes just a few minutes.

Don't do it that way on an aluminum (which includes scandium) frame. Actually, don't do it that way at all.

The felt will only make the surface that's there shiny, and it only gets shiny after a lot of material has been removed. Felt will not make a non-flat surface flat, and it won't take away high spots while leaving the area around them untouched.

Stoning removes high spots first, leveling the surface, and works down into the surface progressively, keeping it flat and planar. You really only need to knock off the high spots so they don't drag or catch on the high spots of the opposing surface. On most steel parts, 10-15 percent "shine" is usually plenty smooth. It's a good thing if there are low spots where lube can live and avoid being wiped away.

On an aluminum frame, if you see shiny, you've removed the anodizing, which means you've destroyed the surface's wear resistance. Use only the finest stone, the white Arkansas, and only "pass it" over the surface enough for the initial feeling of drag to diminish. That is the signal that you've knocked down the highest high points. You're done.

Dremels suck. Stones are cheaper and take up less space anyway.

[medmo]

Don't do it that way on an aluminum (which includes scandium) frame. Actually, don't do it that way at all.

The felt will only make the surface that's there shiny, and it only gets shiny after a lot of material has been removed. Felt will not make a non-flat surface flat, and it won't take away high spots while leaving the area around them untouched.

Stoning removes high spots first, leveling the surface, and works down into the surface progressively, keeping it flat and planar. You really only need to knock off the high spots so they don't drag or catch on the high spots of the opposing surface. On most steel parts, 10-15 percent "shine" is usually plenty smooth. It's a good thing if there are low spots where lube can live and avoid being wiped away.

On an aluminum frame, if you see shiny, you've removed the anodizing, which means you've destroyed the surface's wear resistance. Use only the finest stone, the white Arkansas, and only "pass it" over the surface enough for the initial feeling of drag to diminish. That is the signal that you've knocked down the highest high points. You're done.

Dremels suck. Stones are cheaper and take up less space anyway.

Well, I just have to respectfully disagree with you there. A quick buff removes a whole lot less material then using a stone and addresses the contact area. The goal isn’t to try and remove tool marks on the frame which is a bad idea, (increased contact surface/friction and removing more material). People can get in trouble a lot quicker with stoning rather than a brief buffing. Same thing with the buffing compound. Use only the finest compound.