I finally understand the fuss about colt revolvers

[rathos]

While perusing gunbroker one evening I came across a semi local to me colt cobra. It had some dings, but overall looked pretty good. The price was also right, it looked like the user was clearing it out hoping for a large bidding war. As most due, I put in my top bid and forgot about it. A few days later I got a notification saying I had one. The gun has a cardboard box that looks like woodgrain and could be the actual box it came in (no serials on it). I know the grips are aftermarket, but that saved me having to buy them. Unfortunately our range is shut down due to some issues with ricochets but hopefully I can find a decent place to shoot it soon. So far in dry fire the trigger is amazing, other than the fact that it is thin.... I plan on shooting mostly copper jacketed wadcutters so hopefully this thing has a long life and I don't have to worry about parts or timing issues.

[JHC]

While perusing gunbroker one evening I came across a semi local to me colt cobra. It had some dings, but overall looked pretty good. The price was also right, it looked like the user was clearing it out hoping for a large bidding war. As most due, I put in my top bid and forgot about it. A few days later I got a notification saying I had one. The gun has a cardboard box that looks like woodgrain and could be the actual box it came in (no serials on it). I know the grips are aftermarket, but that saved me having to buy them. Unfortunately our range is shut down due to some issues with ricochets but hopefully I can find a decent place to shoot it soon. So far in dry fire the trigger is amazing, other than the fact that it is thin.... I plan on shooting mostly copper jacketed wadcutters so hopefully this thing has a long life and I don't have to worry about parts or timing issues.

Works of art! Preventative medicine IMO is don't overdue the DA dry fire and avoid the sort of live fire volume you wouldn't blink at for a service pistol.

[rathos]

For sure. Only dry fire with cushioned snap caps and even that is pretty few and far between. Shooting will mostly be to get to figure out where it hits with wadcutters and then letting people feel that watch like clicking before fire.

Works of art! Preventative medicine IMO is don't overdue the DA dry fire and avoid the sort of live fire volume you wouldn't blink at for a service pistol.

[JHC]

In the 80s I had a couple D frames. I loved them. I only shot so often but I dry fired the hell out of them - all DA. Knocked them both out of time.

It's the cycling I think that knocks them out.

[BillSWPA]

Nice find!

The frame mounted firing pins in D frames can be broken by dry firing without snap caps. I learned this by breaking one.

Stick to standard pressure ammo. The aluminum frame Colts are not designed for +P.



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[Malamute]

I came into an 80s vintage Agent, it instantly took of most favored pocket carry position. It timed OK. I read the gunsmithing section on the Colt forum, theres specific directions on how to do some basic stuff on Colts, including stretch the hand to get the timing back in spec. They are not the uber-mysterious machine that only specially trained apprentices in dark arts can work on, contrary to popular belief. A major rebuilt, or some major parts fitting and replacement, yes, it takes some knowledge and tools, basic stuff isnt that difficult though. I also came into a nice group of spare parts, I think Ill be good for a lifetime or two. I dont shoot it much, but just REALLY like it. Carrying it, looking at it, handling it, occasional dry fire.

Hoping to have a chance to get a steel frame Detective Special again one day. id shoot it more.

[RevolverRob]

Aluminum guns can handle a very mild diet of +P. Colt used to say that aluminum guns which had ~2000 rounds of +P through them should return to the factory for an inspection. Unfortunately, the factory can no longer work on or warranty any previous production DA revolvers (only current Cobras). If the lock up is good, I wouldn't worry too much about a firing a few cylinders of +P through it, if you ever intend to carry it with same ammo.

Plated WCs will be a fine choice, though most Colts don't have leading issues. I've found 1st and 2nd issue guns (like in the OP) tend to shoot 158 LRN POA/POI at 20 yards. 3rd issue guns (like the one mentioned in Malamute's post) seem to prefer 147-grain WCs for POA/POI at 20-yards. A gas-checked SWC in 158-grain flavor at about 750-800 fps will likely net you near one-hole accuracy at 20-yards. My 3" gun (2nd issue DS) will cloverleaf them at that distance with most off-the-shelf 158s.

[rathos]

Thanks for all the input so far. I don't plan on shooting any +P through it. As I mentioned before I pretty much plan on sticking to 148 grain copper plated wadcutters. It is so much better for carry compared to its new all steel brother. I have also read that some like the new revolvers better, including the trigger pull and those folks I would say are crazy... About the only thing about the new ones is they can handle +P and have a good front sight.

[willie]

I've owned my share of the Colt D's and have two new ones from the 1950's. My advice is shoot it for familiarization and do a very minimum amount of dry firing. These wonderful revolvers tend to go out of time if fired or cycled a lot. I can't provide a figure but can say that I saw it happen several times. The Python suffers the same fate. Today there are few who can repair these guns. You might place a drop of oil on a Q-Tip and then lube the cylinder star's ratchets. Use the same Q-Tip on the hand. Next cock the revolver and let ONE drop of oil fall into the action. Please overlook my being so directive. Next, remove the revolver from the box and store the box where it will remain undamaged.

I will have to look, but I will find one of my very old repair books and copy the D frame section for you. That is, if you are interested.

[rathos]

Thanks Willie. I appreciate your info. The pic was the one I got from my FFL when it came in. the box is safely stored with my other boxes and the gun in the safe where it should be. Your info was the same thing my revolver guru/teacher gave me, so that part is done! I wouldn't mind a copy of the d frame stuff if you have it! I am not the most adventurous but I have handy friends that can help.

I've owned my share of the Colt D's and have two new ones from the 1950's. My advice is shoot it for familiarization and do a very minimum amount of dry firing. These wonderful revolvers tend to go out of time if fired or cycled a lot. I can't provide a figure but can say that I saw it happen several times. The Python suffers the same fate. Today there are few who can repair these guns. You might place a drop of oil on a Q-Tip and then lube the cylinder star's ratchets. Use the same Q-Tip on the hand. Next cock the revolver and let ONE drop of oil fall into the action. Please overlook my being so directive. Next, remove the revolver from the box and store the box where it will remain undamaged.

I will have to look, but I will find one of my very old repair books and copy the D frame section for you. That is, if you are interested.