I run steel case a lot. It’s cheap. Like $14.43 per 100. 10000 rounds makes a difference in savings. I’ve also gotten over the misconception that steel case ammo is “bad”.Originally Posted by CraigS
However, I’ve also gotten over my personal belief that my guns have to be steel case compatible - if I have to run brass I will. No big deal.
I’m just really happy that ammo prices continue to drop.
Here's my essential issue with aluminum and steel cased ammo, and why I don't use it at all:
I take really, really good care of my guns. So when there's a misfeed, jam, etc. I want to be able to diagnose it rapidly, because it's very out of the ordinary (as an example, I've had a single stoppage in around 15,000 rounds through Berettas).
If I am using quality brass-ammo by someone like Federal, the chance it's an ammo issue is significantly lowered. Not eliminated, even the most premium ammo can be mis-loaded, but it's far less likely to be the ammo. Usually this lets me much more rapidly zero in on on a magazine/spring/lubrication issue.
With the super cheap steel and aluminum range stuff, you'll save a few bucks, but your troubleshooting process requires getting nicer ammo and running a decent quantity.
I am fine with it for guns I only shoot recreationally, but for carry and home defense guns, I need to know if that stoppage is ammo related before I am comfortable carrying the gun for defense of myself and my family/friends.
Different strokes are all good, though.
State Government Attorney | Beretta, Glock, CZ & S&W Fan
When we first got into pistols about 18 yrs ago we shot a LOT of Wolf in our 92s. Maybe 20 cases of it. Then started having problems. I think they changed the coating on the casing. Switched to whatever was the least expensive brass on ammoseek each time I ordered. One time I bought a 1/2 case of Tula as an experiment. Wife and I were shooting her EII and I saw fire out in front and down of the gun while she shot. Stopped her right away. Turns out there had been a squib and there had been a bullet in the barrel when she fired again and it split the barrel lengthwise. Set the Tula aside but later I figured I could get rid of it being super careful and shooting just one at a time. Then I got a case stuck in the chamber. Double checked it had fired but I couldn't get it out while at the range. Got home and had to drill out the primer and then more of the case end before it loosened up. I still have 5 boxes of that crap but I will never shoot steel again.
Would you elaborate on why it was necessary to drill out the primer?
It was very weird. At the range I have a 3/16 brass rod in my bag but I wasn't getting anywhere w/ it. At home I removed the barrel and using a hammer and the rod, it still wouldn't budge. I was trying to hold the end of the barrel over a socket so the case could slide out of the barrel and into the socket. But as you look at the end of the barrel the wall is less than 1/8 inch so, as I hit harder, I was afraid I would damage the end of the barrel. It was hard to keep the barrel properly aligned w/ the socket. Decided that drilling out the brass would hopefully lower the effort needed to move the case. That finally popped it loose w/o too much effort. BTW this was my carry pistol, an M&P9c 1.0.
I'd agree about it being weird. I have cleared stuck cases (and even bore obstructions) personally and professionally and never had to resort to that level.
Yep, the reason I had the brass rod was for my first AR. We were still shooting the Wolf in 9mm and so I ordered 2 cases of Wolf in 5.56. The AR had a Wylde chamber which may have had something to do w/ it, but we got a lot of failures to extract. So I just locked it open, put the rod in and banged it against the the lumber framing at the range keeping it pointed down range of course. For 2 yrs I would carry 100-150 rnds of Wolf and another 100 of some brass. When the steel stuck around 100 rnds I'd bang it out and switch over to brass.
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