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Thread: Sig P245: replacing inner/outer roll pins...

  1. #1
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    Sig P245: replacing inner/outer roll pins...

    I noticed the pins were protruding a bit on the right side--especially the inner. Also noticed that the seam on the inner pin was oriented at a different angle on the left side of the slide: 6:00 on the right side (straight down); about 4:00 on the left side (not straight down). I was prepared to just chalk it up to OCD, but when I noticed the inner pin's seam at different angles on either side, I started wondering if it might be broken inside. I guess the only way to find out is to replace the pins...

    -I've got a set of fresh pins (inner & outer)

    -Using a Lyman 1/8" steel punch with a Lyman hammer.

    -Tap right to left, correct? Install left to right?

    -I tapped reasonably hard... didn't budge the outer pin. Though I managed to get the inner pin flush.

    Should I just.... hit it harder? Are the pins harder to hammer out if they're broken?

    Thanks for any advice.
    Last edited by MattyD380; 11-24-2018 at 12:31 AM.

  2. #2
    Site Supporter NEPAKevin's Avatar
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    I do not own a 245 but the parts schematic looks the same as a stamped slide P220. The roll pins should be oriented 180 deg, factory puts them at six and twelve o'clock, but regardless should be the same on both sides. You didn't mention it, but I assume you have a block with a hole to allow the pins to move. It sounds like you do have broken pins and may be driving them into the breech block or they are other wise bound up as they really should not take that much force to drive in and out. Safe thing to do would be to have an armorer look at it or send the slide to SIG. When I learned how to do this procedure, roll pin punches were recommended so the slide doesn't get damaged.
    "You can't win a war with choirboys. " Mad Mike Hoare

  3. #3
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    You’ve got the pin removal direction correct for the P series pistols. And based on your description, I think you’ve deduced things correctly. It sounds like one or both of the FPP pins are broken.

    The broken pin in these pistols can hang up on the firing pin itself (due to the firing pin spring’s tension) and can create resistance; both when removing the old one and when inserting the new one as it passes through/across the firing pin’s notch. If you depress the back of the firing pin (from the back of the slide) as you begin to tap it free, it will allow it to start to move. Once it’s moving it should continue to with less effort. Then, as you are inserting the new ones, you may have to do it again as they pass that point.

    As a happy note, these pins are somewhat easier to deal with than the solid tapered version that came in the first milled slides. Those can be quite the PITA. The newest spiral version, thankfully, are also easier to mess with than the solid taper pins. However, I believe they’re a touch more susceptible to damage from regular dry fire than either of the earlier versions. FWIW.

    Be careful not to damage the edges of the pin hole when working on the stamped versions of these slides. Doing so to excess can cause the pins not to fit as snugly as necessary, which can lead to breech block movement. Which can, in turn lead down the path to damaged/cracked frame rails. It’s one of the reasons they went to the milled version, sans the separate breech block. Just FYI.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input, guys.

    I figured the pins should be coming out easier. I will try depressing the firing pin as I tap. But if they don't come without too much of a fuss, I might just send it to Sig. Not sure of any Sig armorers in my area, and I'm not sure I really want to trust local Joe gunsmith with this.

    I think I have a pretty good understanding of how to get the new pins in... start the outer; move the inner pin in so it's flush; tap both in to retain the block; depress firing pin; tap in the rest of the way. Also know to have the 12:00/6:00 setup. Don't have an "official" bench block... but a packing-tape roll has served me well thus far.

    Thanks again. I'll try it again tonight or tomorrow.

  5. #5
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    Also... should I depress the firing pin safety while I'm pushing in the firing pin from the rear (and hammering)?

  6. #6
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyD380 View Post
    Don't have an "official" bench block... but a packing-tape roll has served me well thus far.

    Possible problem identified. 😉

    You’d be surprised at how even a little bit of give can effect getting something like that getting started. I’d get an armorer’s block or fashion one (block of wood and a drill) and then try it if it isn’t hanging up on the FP.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyD380 View Post
    Also... should I depress the firing pin safety while I'm pushing in the firing pin from the rear (and hammering)?
    Nope, not necessary. Just depress the firing pin enough for the FPPP to move freely.

  8. #8
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    Awesome. Can't thank you enough for the advice. Good call on the block. I'll rig something more... rigid. Could probably run by Ace and grab something too.

    Didn't get a chance to work on it tonight. Hopefully tomorrow.

  9. #9
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    Did some banging this evening...

    Pushed the FP in with a punch (braced it against my abdomen) while hammering on the pin. Oriented the slide on the corner of a wood serving tray for stability and clearance underneath.

    Pins didn't move at all. Not even a millimeter. I'm afraid there's something bound up inside. Probably going to send it off to someone.

  10. #10
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    For reference, here are some shots of the offset in the seams on the inner roll pin. You can see the left side image is slightly off kilter (may have to zoom in):

    Right side:

    Name:  0F59487C-21B0-4F2E-A80B-DEA762574D7E.jpg
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    Left side:

    Name:  164CBE8A-934F-4DD7-A4CA-03B3F7DF6B9F.jpg
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Size:  30.7 KB

    Here is what initially caught my attention—inner pin slightly protruding on the right side:

    Name:  20CCA664-E00D-4C5A-BDDE-0719B92C9265.jpg
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    Further investigation revealed the seam alignment anomaly.
    Last edited by MattyD380; 11-30-2018 at 12:01 PM.

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