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Thread: Sig M11-A1 Compact vs M11-A1 ARMY Compact

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
    Here is my all-German P228 Rail.

    Attachment 31556

    It is a bit of a rare bird.
    I didn't realize there was ever a factory Railed Frame P228.

    I have a spare P229 slide I keep wanting to build into a full gun. I've just never found a cost effective way to do it. Kinda digging the matrix precision 80% P229/226 combo frames but I'm not confident in my ability to build it without screwing it up.

  2. #22
    Site Supporter MGW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcba_joe View Post
    I didn't realize there was ever a factory Railed Frame P228.

    I have a spare P229 slide I keep wanting to build into a full gun. I've just never found a cost effective way to do it. Kinda digging the matrix precision 80% P229/226 combo frames but I'm not confident in my ability to build it without screwing it up.
    Buy a P229-22 then you can swap back and forth between 22 and 9mm.

  3. #23
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sig66 View Post
    One is the FDE and one is the Talo Army Green.
    Yeah, the "Army" appears to be just Sig selling what was originally a one-distributor special to all channels. S&W has done the same thing with Talo on revolvers. I don't have any special insight into the reasons for that.

    I have one of the Talo green M11-A1s. Picked up a set of Sig-branded G10 grips for it (made by Hogue) for super-cheap from CDNN. They sold out in hours. Hogue's G10 are my preferred grips on any classic Sig at this point. They are flatter on the sides with larger radius on the back, whereas the factory molded plastic grips have a smaller radius at the back, with more curvature on the sides - more of an ellipse in cross section. I also traded someone for a standard-reach trigger, because I have big hands. TRIGGER-6 drops right in.

    Mine has the long external extractor. I've had a ton of trouble with it leaving Winchester White Box in the chamber, but the WWB cases are obviously defectively machined, and I can correlate the extraction failures to the geometry defects. Inspecting the cases tells the story clearly. I've had one FTE with Blazer Brass, but other than that, it has been flawless with all other ammo I've tried. This illustrates why generic statements on the internet are often useless. The "Made in America" ammo chokes it, while cheap Eastern European PPU cases loaded for Academy's Monarch house brand have run flawlessly, and are clearly machined better and more consistently.

    I've done a little work on the extractor, and made some improvement, but it's still not what I want it to be. I could go a little farther, but don't know how far I can trust the integrity of the MIM if I do. It's conceivable I might make my own extractor out of reliable material if that's what it takes. I put it in the safe awhile back and have been working with other stuff, haven't gotten around to asking Sig for an updated extractor spring or anything, which is the next step. I should make that call one of these days.

    It shoots awesome. The sear in mine had a silver colored coating that I've not been able to identify. Robar said it is not NP3. With a little action cleanup/deburring/smoothing before starting, it's broken in to the point that it makes my P226, which I previously thought was pretty sweet, feel like there's something wrong with it.

    The P229 is a little bulkier than you'd think. It's built for .40. The slide is beefy. The decocker on the side makes it seem thicker than, say, a USP Compact. It's not that much smaller than a P226, but is down several rounds in capacity. I can shoot a lot more rounds out of the P226 without feeling the recoil in my hands as noticeably. The best description I've seen is that it's a smallish service pistol, while the P226 is a go-to-war-size service pistol, but they are both "full size."

    There have been some excellent clear-out prices a few times over the past year on old-style P229s that take the skinnier 13-round magazines.
    Last edited by OlongJohnson; 10-22-2018 at 05:46 PM.
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    Not another dime.

  4. #24
    Site Supporter Sensei's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyD380 View Post
    That's sweet. So what's the story behind those? They had some leftover stamped slides and put them 229 frames?
    German contract overrun. There are other non-German versions lacking the “triple serial numbers” and DE markings that were assembled from parts in NH.

    Quote Originally Posted by obremski View Post
    How well / what distance do the HDs regulate at? I've got a #7 front on mine and it seems a little low at 15 yards; I haven't stretched it out to 25 yet but I'm hoping it hits on at that range. Is it drive-the-dot at 25 on yours? Mine is a bog-standard 228...thanks!
    15 yards drive the dot with 147 grain HST.
    I like my rifles like my women - short, light, fast, brown, and suppressed.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
    15 yards drive the dot with 147 grain HST.
    That's exactly what I was shooting with mine and it was printing low at 15 with the Sig sights on it. Aiming at the top of a 3x5 card it was barely scraping the bottom, so 3in +- off. There's certainly a chance that it was me, but this was off of a rest and the other pistols I was checking the zero on that day were all consistent, so I'm not sure that was the case.

    If the Trijicon HDs shoot like that at 15, perfect. Thank you for the info!

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