Found some low grade Slow-Mo footage of a Stoeger M3K on my phone.
Pretty easy to see a double bounce.
Found some low grade Slow-Mo footage of a Stoeger M3K on my phone.
Pretty easy to see a double bounce.
Last edited by P.E. Kelley; 10-18-2018 at 08:14 PM.
Guns are just machines and without you they can do no harm, nor any good
Thanks for posting, I remember this original article! All my copies of the old Front Sight magazine burned up in our house fire in 2007, but this article was about the time that I and many of my friends in USPSA were ditching our 1100's with the speed gates and drilled out gas ports for the new tribe, Browning, Winchester, or going Benelli M1S90 which was my choice. The article was very influential at the time. Jeff Cramblitt was my coach back in those days and convinced me the Benelli was what I wanted to shoot.
Last edited by fatdog; 10-18-2018 at 11:37 PM.
About 45 years ago, I had opportunity to fire a 12 ga Auto 5 that was full auto. The reason is that a defect permitted full auto. The gun would fire 5 shells so fast that individual reports were indistinguisable. The only other weapon in my experience that fired as rapidly was a full auto Mac 10 .380 belonging to a sheriff's dept. The Auto 5 was in my gunsmith's possession and belonged to the sheriff.
Nordic tubes for the BPS work on the Belgian guns. At least the 12ga does. I just put one on a 1956 vintage. The thread on the Japanese Auto 5 is different.Originally Posted by farscott
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/mx...ng-bps-auto-5/
Yes, the Nordic Components stuff works pretty good. I have the MXT extension nut and tube on my 1954 Auto-5 that someone cut the barrel back to 20". I also added Stalker furniture to the gun and put the factory wood furniture in the safe. The picture shows the extension nut with the factory furniture. I was concerned about cracking the factory forearm if the nut was ever to loosen.
Last edited by farscott; 10-19-2018 at 05:18 AM.
When I was a kid, war surplus Rem Mod 11's in riot configuration with 18 or20 inch barrels were available. They were sold through the mail for a super cheap price. These shotguns had fierce recoil with buckshot even when friction ring was set up correctly. At least the several that I shot did. In the Browning long recoil system, two factors determing felt recoil are amount of oil on the mag tube and the brass friction ring serving as a brake. The shooter has a choice about how this ring can be installed. One option is placing it in such a way that braking does not occur. Felt recoil is determined by the speed at which the barrel slams back against the receiver. My next statement is counter intuitive. When one holds this shotgun less firmly, he feels slightly less recoil. Why? The weapon itself is not anchored as securely against the shoulder. The long recoil system then is floating more within the receiver. An extreme example would be holding the weapon loosely at one's side. In this instance shooting a light load with the friction ring set to act as a brake, the weapon would be subject to malfunction whereas it might not if held firmly.
This design has long been considered obsolete. Too, it's expensive to manufacture, yet they are fine shotguns, and yes they do kick. I urge anyone here to seek out and buy a 20 gauge Auto 5. It makes a fine companion when afield. Also they will increase in value.
In my limited experience, excess felt recoil with a Remington Model 11 or Browning Auto-5 has one of more of the following root causes:
1) Friction pieces set improperly for the load. I see this a lot. I set my guns for heavy loads and only switch to the light setting if the gun does not cycle.
2) Too much oil on the magazine tube. I add a bit of lube to the tube when I run lighter loads and wipe it off for heavier loads.
3) Friction pieces and/or recoil spring need replacement. Between Numrich and Sarco, I have bought enough friction piece components and recoil springs to keep my guns running for the next one hundred years. Cheap spares and the only real consumable parts on the guns. Everything else has tons of design margin.
4) Magazine cap not tight. This allows the barrel to get moving quite a bit and is really hard on the forearm.
My forearm was split almost completely in half and was held together with duct tape. It's collectability is lost somewhere in history. I got it at a pawn shop for $300. It looked like pure hell but it's mechanically solid. I need to get back on it and finish it up as I have a bag full of new springs for it.
Barrel cut to 22" (SOF Match max length) home made mag extension, rear sight and front sight.
Pachmayr pad and light dehorning of the loading area (can't cut them much with the Ser# in the way)
Guns are just machines and without you they can do no harm, nor any good
You did really well for $300. I paid almost double for my 1954 gun with the NXT nut and extension. I then replaced the factory wood with the Stalker furniture, drilled and tapped the barrel for the front sight bead, and replaced the recoil spring and friction pieces. I am into my gun for almost $800. That being said, I like it better than the Benelli guns I have tried. That may be due to the fact that I have shot Auto 5 guns since I was a college student.
Mine would have been collectible as it is one of the first Light Twelve guns with the Speed Feed, but the cut barrel made that moot.
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