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Thread: Glock MOS RDS install thread (What has worked for me)

  1. #61
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    Most of this stuff is mentioned elsewhere in this thread, or common sense, but I wanted to capture all the relevant info for mounting an RMR to a MOS Glock from Trijicon's FAQ and direct email correspondance with Trijicon.

    Q: I used an “anti-flicker” sealing plate from a different manufacturer for my RMR Type 1. Can I continue to use this plate with the new RMR Type 2?
    A: Trijicon strongly recommends that users do not use sealing plates that include a raised surface with the new RMR Type 2. The “bump” in these style plates can potentially crush the RMR Type 2’s redesigned electronics. The upgraded RMR Type 2 has been designed so that it functions without the need for an anti-flicker sealing plate. (Trijicon’s RM63 sealing plate does not have a raised surface and is compatible with the RMR Type 2).

    Q: When should the RMR sealing plate be used?
    A: The RMR sealing plate should be used if ANY of the following are true:
    1. Mounting surface is interrupted, or
    2. Mounting surface has through features, or
    3. Mount surface does not fully encompass sealing boundary

    Q: What parts are needed to mount an RMR on my Glock® MOS?
    A: To mount an RMR on the Glock® MOS pistol, a Trijicon RMR Mounting kit (AC32064) is required. This part is not included with the RMR or the Glock® MOS.

    Q: Do I need to use the sealing plate when mounting an RMR on the Glock® MOS pistol
    A: Yes, you need to use the sealing plate.

    Q: What bit size are the screws in the AC32064 mounting kit?
    A: The screw is a T10 TORX

    Q: What torque value do the screws in the AC32064 mounting kit require?
    A: Torque the screws to 12-15 INCH LBS.

  2. #62
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    Mods, can we get this moved to the "Red Dot" subforum and pinned, so this info doesn't get lost in the shuffle?

  3. #63
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    Using the majority of the suggestions here: C&H V3 plate nad sealing plate, BattleWerx RMR mounting screws, and VibraTite VC-3. This came together today.

    Thanx for all the pointers!!


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    "There are two ways to do most anything- right and again."

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    What a pain in the ass.

    I dry assembled everything a few days ago, and even torqued the RMR-to-plate fasteners to 10 inch/pounds using my brandy-dandy new Wheeler Fatwrench. The VC-3 arrived today, and the fasteners were frozen in place. One popped with a crack after turning the hex key into spiral art, but I had to drill the other out. No biggie, but these are fasteners that need to be pulled at every battery change.

    The VC-3 is curing right now, but I also applied a dab of antiseize to the countersinks on both the mounting plate and the RMR. I’m certain it was friction between the fastener head and the countersink that caused the problem.
    Pretty common on countersunk steel screws into anodized aluminum. You're on the right track with a little anti-seize in the countersink. In the past, blue loctite has solved the problem as well as it provides some sort of layer between the metal surfaces. I bet the VC-3 would do the same thing.

  5. #65
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    Pretty common on countersunk steel screws into anodized aluminum. You're on the right track with a little anti-seize in the countersink. In the past, blue loctite has solved the problem as well as it provides some sort of layer between the metal surfaces. I bet the VC-3 would do the same thing.
    I’m just surprised it happened so quickly.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    I’m just surprised it happened so quickly.
    I actually don't think it's corrosion, it's galling between the taper on the head of the screw and the taper of the countersunk hole. Makes it pretty much instantaneous.

  7. #67
    Site Supporter Mjolnir's Avatar
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    Good information.

    This should be a sticky.


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  8. #68
    Site Supporter Trukinjp13's Avatar
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    I second this


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  9. #69
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    Oct 2011
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    Madisonville, LA
    Has anyone tried using a lower dawson sight combo? I recently read that a .305 rear and .300 front sight combo was suggested to have open up space in the rmr window. Has anyone experimented with this?

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by JR1572 View Post
    Has anyone tried using a lower dawson sight combo? I recently read that a .305 rear and .300 front sight combo was suggested to have open up space in the rmr window. Has anyone experimented with this?
    I had Dawson make a custom MOS rear for a Brownells cut slide. They measure from top of slide to bottom of notch if I recall correctly.

    With one of the Holosun dots on it the bottom of the notch sits equal with sight base so it's about as low as it will sit with the notch unoccluded.

    I don't remember exact dimensions but I can look them up. I put the dot on, measured with calipers, then ordered rear.

    It had to be custom as Dawson tends to stock tighter notch widths and I wanted it wider.

    It worked out well and worth the hassle.





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    Last edited by msh; 11-07-2019 at 11:09 PM.

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