Glock G45/19X/19 MOS for 2019 and beyond

[Sasage]

*Don't use Red or Blue Loctite brand thread adhesive. (*Blue isn't strong enough and Red Loctite is too strong and will result in stripped out screw heads) Only use VibraTite brand VC-3

*Get a torque wrench and install both the adapter plate and the RMR screws with 14-15 INCH lbs of torque.

*Do NOT use the two mounting screws that come included in the box with the Trjicon RMR for mounting on an MOS. Order the proper length screws for you desired RDS. (BattleWerx.com sells RDS and MOS adapter plate screws for every combination you can think of.

*I've had none of the reported issues with a few MOS Glocks using this method over the past 3 years.

*I'm currently experimenting with the C&H Precision MOS adapter plates on my MOS Glocks. It appears to be a superior adapter plate for the MOS platform as it supports the Trijicon RMR front & rear instead of just relying on the recoil lugs and the two mounting screws. It also completely covers the bottom of the RMR's footprint.

Thank you

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[Trukinjp13]

*Don't use Red or Blue Loctite brand thread adhesive. (*Blue isn't strong enough and Red Loctite is too strong and will result in stripped out screw heads) Only use VibraTite brand VC-3

*Get a torque wrench and install both the adapter plate and the RMR screws with 14-15 INCH lbs of torque.

*Do NOT use the two mounting screws that come included in the box with the Trjicon RMR for mounting on an MOS. Order the proper length screws for you desired RDS. (BattleWerx.com sells RDS and MOS adapter plate screws for every combination you can think of.

*I've had none of the reported issues with a few MOS Glocks using this method over the past 3 years.

*I'm currently experimenting with the C&H Precision MOS adapter plates on my MOS Glocks. It appears to be a superior adapter plate for the MOS platform as it supports the Trijicon RMR front & rear instead of just relying on the recoil lugs and the two mounting screws. It also completely covers the bottom of the RMR's footprint.

This is solid info! My biggest issue with the mos is the user interface with installation. Proper screws/torque and materials will go along way.

[s0nspark]

*Get a torque wrench and install both the adapter plate and the RMR screws with 14-15 INCH lbs of torque.

Can you offer any recommendations?

I plan to order the Battle Werx RMR screw set but am not sure what constitutes a good torque wrench for this application or where to get the proper, quality bits.

[Sasage]

Can you offer any recommendations?

I plan to order the Battle Werx RMR screw set but am not sure what constitutes a good torque wrench for this application or where to get the proper, quality bits.

This is what I have used for AR optic mounting etc.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/71...RoCG2EQAvD_BwE

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[NickDrak]

Can you offer any recommendations?

I plan to order the Battle Werx RMR screw set but am not sure what constitutes a good torque wrench for this application or where to get the proper, quality bits.

The Wheeler FatWrench linked to above has worked for me without issue.

[s0nspark]

This is what I have used for AR optic mounting etc.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/71...RoCG2EQAvD_BwE

The Wheeler FatWrench linked to above has worked for me without issue.

Awesome - thanks to both of you.

Does it come with the bits I'll need for the Battle Werx MOS screws? I looked over Wheeler's online manual but did not see specific mention of the M2 Hex, for example, but I am fairly unfamiliar with the nomenclature. The bits I am used to dealing with are the digital kind ;-)

[GJM]

Awesome - thanks to both of you.

Does it come with the bits I'll need for the Battle Werx MOS screws? I looked over Wheeler's online manual but did not see specific mention of the M2 Hex, for example, but I am fairly unfamiliar with the nomenclature. The bits I am used to dealing with are the digital kind ;-)

I have a Wheeler — believe the same model and the bits don’t go that small.

[Whiskey_Bravo]

The Wheeler does not come with many bits, especially small torx. I bought a large (100+) bit set from Lowe's for like $29 and it works great with the Wheeler and I haven't encountered a situation yet where there was the right size in that box.

Love the smoothness of the exterior 19X for carry. Would like to send the frame Cold Bore for the universal magazine compatibility mod. I like the forward serrations of my 45 for grippy purposes. Plan to order a 19.5 MOS FS this week to complete the GJM Trinity. These configurations really do make a whole lot of sense.

My 45 does grab in a Safariland ALS holster. I only have a 7TS series on hand right now to test, but during the draw it sounds almost like a washboard if you slow it down. You can absolutely just pull straight through on the draw and go through it, but it does not instill confidence. May have to try the Velcro mod mentioned above.

Can anyone here comment on how the G45 serrations work with the new 6390RDS series holsters?

[Wake27]

The Wheeler does not come with many bits, especially small torx. I bought a large (100+) bit set from Lowe's for like $29 and it works great with the Wheeler and I haven't encountered a situation yet where there was the right size in that box.

Love the smoothness of the exterior 19X for carry. Would like to send the frame Cold Bore for the universal magazine compatibility mod. I like the forward serrations of my 45 for grippy purposes. Plan to order a 19.5 MOS FS this week to complete the GJM Trinity. These configurations really do make a whole lot of sense.

My 45 does grab in a Safariland ALS holster. I only have a 7TS series on hand right now to test, but during the draw it sounds almost like a washboard if you slow it down. You can absolutely just pull straight through on the draw and go through it, but it does not instill confidence. May have to try the Velcro mod mentioned above.

Can anyone here comment on how the G45 serrations work with the new 6390RDS series holsters?

My ATEi front serrations didn't play well with my 6354DO, so I just did a ton of unholster/reholster one night. The serrations tore up the ALS lock just enough that it felt smooth, may be worth a shot since it didn't hurt the slide at all.

[HeavyDuty]

I can't take any pictures of the mod currently, and most of you will probably laugh, but it works.

Pick up some of the industrial strength Velcro from the hardware store, the one in the white box. Take a piece of the soft side and cut a small section about inch wide by two inches. Also cut the Velcro pile, like you would be cutting hair. Lay it flat and trim it..this really just helps with clearance. It isn't necessary but it helps.

Remove the ALS lock from your holster. Look at the U shaped area, specifically the side opposite the ejection port side. There are two raised tabs in this area. The serrations catch on these two tabs. Take the Velcro and cover the tabs up with it. Make sure the velco is only on the side and does not run up to the top of the U shaped area. Also make sure the Velcro doesn't hang off the edges anywhere.


Silly as this seems, it prevents the serrations from hanging up on the ALS system. The ejection port side isn't a problem as the design of that side doesn't interfere with the serrations.

I'll try and remove my ALS lock tomorrow and get a picture of the Velcro installed.


It doesn't affect the locking of the pistol at all, and the serrations now slide past the two tabs.



It ain't the greatest fix, but until Safariand redesigns the ALS for the front serrations, it will work. I have had no issues with this even when putting a scalding hot pistol in the holster.



TXPO

Why don’t you just remove the two tabs? I have Dremeled many Safariland holsters to help with problems like this.

I looked at my old 637x and saw the two bumps in the ALS locking block. I was getting the interference until I gave the holster some heat gun discipline to relieve the right side slide stop area - now I’m getting no interference at all on draw or reholstering unless I rotate the gun, and even then it’s very minor. Could something else be pushing the gun to the left of the holster causing it to rub harder against the two nubs?

I suspect a few thousand draw cycles will polish those nubs right up, just in time for replacing the ALS locking block.