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Thread: The official 442/642 "pro" thread

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post

    If you are interested provide the following information (here in the thread or via PM, either is fine)

    1) Base gun 442, maybe a 642 if the purchase of another gun is necessary
    2) Sight preferences tritium front, black rear
    3) Ammo preference 148gr wadcutter
    4) Zero distance I’d be ok with anything from 15-25 yards
    5) Action Work (Yes/No) yes
    6) Quantity of Guns one for now
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc). I’d be interested in a dehorn, chamfer, and endshake correction depending on how much extra the cost would be

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    I’d be interested depending on cost, specifics above.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    Because I'm FUCKING RevolverNERD

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    If you are interested provide the following information (here in the thread or via PM, either is fine)

    1) Base gun = 642 (I already own one)
    2) Sight preferences: Factory notch rear is good, as long as it's paired with a FO or Tritium dot front.
    3) Ammo preference: 1st choice = 147 HBWC.....Distant 2nd choice = Speer 135 GD +P Short Barrel
    4) Zero distance: 15 to 25 yds
    5) Action Work (Yes/No): Trigger work is basically a given
    6) Quantity of Guns: 1
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc). Chamfering of cylinder would be a nice touch. Steel hammer and trigger pins would be nice too. Maybe some kick ass Dagga approved wood grips!

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    EXPRESSING INTEREST DOES NOT COMMIT YOU TO PURCHASE - These are strictly numbers for allowing me to shop gunsmiths and identify the best way to approach building the Ultimate P-F J-Frame - at the best cost and quality for us all.
    Definitely interested depending on pricing.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post

    If you are interested provide the following information (here in the thread or via PM, either is fine)

    1) Base gun: 642/442/640
    2) Sight preferences D&L sights or comparable; tritium or gold bead front, black rear serrated; also acceptable would be retaining the rear sight trough and installing a large gold bead or tritium front sight
    3) Ammo preferenceSpeer +P Short Barrel 135gr
    4) Zero distance15 yards
    5) Action Work (Yes/No)Yes
    6) Quantity of Guns1-2
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc). Correct any factory defects; dehorn

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    EXPRESSING INTEREST DOES NOT COMMIT YOU TO PURCHASE - These are strictly numbers for allowing me to shop gunsmiths and identify the best way to approach building the Ultimate P-F J-Frame - at the best cost and quality for us all.
    Last edited by oregon45; 09-09-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  4. #24
    As an owner of a 442 "Pro" (aka "Moonclip") already... I can see where this might interest a lot of folks on PF. I somehow doubt that PF alone could pull the numbers to get S&W to do a custom or semi-custom batch of guns. Having a batch done up by a smith may be more realistic, but getting everyone to agree to a "standard" is probably going to be hard.

    My dream snubby probably goes something like the previously mentioned ideas: pinned or dovetailed front sight, some kind of improved rear sight, ~2.5" tube and a longer extractor stroke to go with it, .357 chamber (I mean, the guns are really mostly sized for .357 already, and options are good, and so are 170gr Keith SWC's...), Airlight or scandium doesn't matter that much to me, but I'd like to have the lanyard pin/loop that the scandium guns have. Going the the scandium style frame with the stronger stainless pins for the guts makes sense to me. Trigger work.... meh, I'll shoot it a bunch, just stick a slightly lighter spring kit in there to start with ( Apex, Wilson Combat, whatever). Corrosion resistant finishes (PVD etc) on components would be nice.

    I'm agnostic on them being cut for moon clips: I carry my current Pro with a clip in the gun, but use strips/Comp-I's for reloads. The clipped cartridges in the gun do make admin loading/unloading easier, and may possibly improve extraction from the gun. The clips are expensive from TK, and I don't know of any other sources for them. Clip fit varies significantly brand to brand on the brass, and even type to type. RA38B with nickle cases fits my blued TK clips loosely... 130gr WWB ball is very tight on the same clips. They make brand/brass specific clips, but they all seem pretty fragile to me. A bent clip can tie up the cylinder. If clips could be had for half of TK's current price structure, I'd be more inclined to desire it as a feature.

    My Pro had to go back to S&W after I found it shooting pretty far left. Close inspection revealed that the barrel was clocked to the right of center. Not much "Pro" about that. I have been contemplating selling my 442 and finding an M&P340 lately...

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
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    If you are interested provide the following information (here in the thread or via PM, either is fine)

    1) Base gun 442/642/640
    2) Sight preferences Similar setup to 43C but with tritium front
    3) Ammo preference NYPD load
    4) Zero distance 15yds
    5) Action Work (Yes/No) Yes
    6) Quantity of Guns 1 for sure, maybe 2 depending on the end product
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc). Chamfer

    ___

    EXPRESSING INTEREST DOES NOT COMMIT YOU TO PURCHASE - These are strictly numbers for allowing me to shop gunsmiths and identify the best way to approach building the Ultimate P-F J-Frame - at the best cost and quality for us all.
    The above in red but I’ll default to the majority rule as long as it doesn’t get too cost prohibitive.
    I wouldn’t mind seeing a 640 with a .38Spl cylinder and a traditional style barrel from a 642 someday again too, ala 640 no dash.
    What about something unique like the 40-1/42-1 Classics from a few years back but with the ability to pin the safety like the originals which wasn’t on the Classics.
    Last edited by cathellsk; 09-09-2018 at 10:33 PM.

  6. #26
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by WDR View Post
    My Pro had to go back to S&W after I found it shooting pretty far left. Close inspection revealed that the barrel was clocked to the right of center. Not much "Pro" about that. I have been contemplating selling my 442 and finding an M&P340 lately...
    The yoke on my M&P 340 was mismachined and had to be replaced before I ever shot it. When it came back, they'd allowed beavers to chew on the ratchet. Fortunately, they sent me a new extractor free of charge.

    The 640 Pro I bought went back to the factory (I didn't transfer it) along with a bunch of other stock that online dealer had because the yoke thrust surface hadn't been finished to fit in the frame when closed.

    I assume crown correction will be required on any new S&W revolver.

    There's almost nothing you could tell me you'd seen on a new S&W that I wouldn't believe.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post

    There's almost nothing you could tell me you'd seen on a new S&W that I wouldn't believe.
    Yeah, I've seen your pictures. Horrible. I will say that S&W turned my 442 around fairly quickly, and it does shoot a lot closer to the sights than it did before. There is a reason I'm hunting for an old 60-10 vs buying a new 3" Model 60 with a soul leaking hole... and it isn't JUST the hole. I'm not a revolver guru at all, but it's sad that they seem to place final QC of a lifesaving device into the hands of the end user these days.

  8. #28
    1.) 442 preferred, but a 642 would be okay.
    2.) Factory rear is fine. Tritium front.
    3.) 158gr LSWC
    4.) 25 yards
    5.) Yes on the action work.
    6.) 1 gun for sure.
    7.) Chamfer the cylinders.

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Behind the redwood curtain
    Just checked and 642 no-lock SKU 103810A is showing on the California roster, pending verification of availability that means I'm in.

    1) Base gun - 642
    2) Sight preferences - anything easy to see, I'm happy with the setup on my M&P 340
    3) Ammo preference - 148 HBWC
    4) Zero distance - 15yds
    5) Action Work (Yes/No) - Yes
    6) Quantity of Guns - 1
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc) - Chamfer cylinders, crown barrel
    Last edited by Salamander; 09-10-2018 at 12:15 AM.

  10. #30
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    Because I'm FUCKING RevolverNERD
    Yes. Yes you are. Thanks for collating all this. So then:

    1) Base gun 442/642, no lock. I own a 642 that works
    2) Sight preferences 43c/351c front/rear, but with tritium on the front, if possible from our smith of choice (SOC)
    3) Ammo preference 148 wadcutter will get me close enough to Kentucky
    4) Zero distance anything from 15-25, as others note.
    5) Action Work (Yes/No) hell yes
    6) Quantity of Guns 1 for sure, maybe 2 depending on final specs. If we can send our guns, two for sure, since I’m not short on J-frames
    7) Additional things you might want (dehorn/chamfer/end shake correction, etc). if we get sights and a trigger via action hone (a good duty tune will take into account endshake and timing corrections, etc), I’ll sit down and take "yes" for an answer. If there’s cylinder chamber chamfering consensus, I’ll still take "yes" for an answer... stock grips, as you note, we will all install our own—including the Taurus grip queers
    Last edited by Totem Polar; 09-10-2018 at 12:55 AM.
    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

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