Let's talk about pre-lock 617s

[OlongJohnson]

There's plenty of talk about 617s that need to check the drain plug to ensure their soul doesn't leak out over here https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....EW-(Poor-Q-C-), but what about before that?

I've had a worsening itch for a 617-4, ten-shot, stainless cylinder six-inch. As with most pre-lock guns, they aren't making any more of them, and they're probably not going to go down in value much. Is it worth having one to snuggle with all the Buck Marks in the safe? Was that before S&W quality went off the rails? Seems like they'll probably be nicer than a similar GP100.

[TCinVA]

"Worth" is a tough question.

You are right, they won't be making any more like the 617-4. The prices on pre-lock S&W revolvers keeps creeping up. They are on the path to Colt levels of retardery.

It is highly unlikely you will lose any money on one should you need to sell it at some time in the future.

If you intend for the gun to be a heavy shooter, .22LR revolvers need a little more maintenance and TLC than good semi-auto .22LR pistols. They prefer being kept clean and may need you to clean the holes in the cylinder and under the ejector star a time or two during a range session.

They are enormously fun to shoot, though, and they can do a lot toward helping you master DA revolvers. Mastering DA revolvers, in turn, tends to make you a pretty damn good shot with just about any handgun you pick up.

The quality on that vintage of S&W should be pretty good.

If you have the money for one I'd say buy it. It is unlikely they will be getting any cheaper anytime soon.

[1slow]

I have no lock 4" 617. I have shot it a few thousand rounds and like it a lot. Bought it used at a shop for about $460 10+ years ago. Wish I had bought 2-3.

10 shot cylinder turns 36 degrees per shot, this seems to help DA shooting.

Some have said that the 10 shot had issues. I have not had any trouble. It is smoother than the Ruger .22 revolvers I have handled.

[OlongJohnson]

A few of the early 10-shots got built with aluminum cylinders. Probably the lightest possible DA to get that turning, but may have had some durability issues (or quality or misuse - hard to know with low-volume S&Ws). Harder to FUBAR stainless than anodized aluminum when cleaning. I know there's a lot of talk among 625 guys shooting .45 ACP in competition that Ti cylinders are often effective in eliminating the N-frame DA cylinder notch peening. Not sure how that would go on a lifetime of shooting an aluminum K-frame .22LR cylinder. Not sure the 317 and 43C are relevant there, as the smaller cylinder is a different world for rotational inertia. I have read speculation about debris becoming embedded in the cylinder where it turns on the yoke at the front.

[oregon45]

I like mine. 617-1, in my opinion the best of the engineering changes. No lock, no MIM parts, drilled and tapped for a scope mount. All the best features with none of the annoying, cheapening, changes S&W made subsequently. I use this gun for silhouette competition out to 100 yards and it is wonderfully accurate. It took a long time to find and was expensive, but it’s worth it to me.

Unless you need 10 shots, I would not buy a later 617. If you do, I recommend not buying one sight unseen because of the high variability of S&W QC.

That said, I would buy a GP100 22Lr over a current production S&W 617 unless you need to mount optics.

[Gumbo]

A few of the early 10-shots got built with aluminum cylinders. Probably the lightest possible DA to get that turning, but may have had some durability issues (or quality or misuse - hard to know with low-volume S&Ws). Harder to FUBAR stainless than anodized aluminum when cleaning. I know there's a lot of talk among 625 guys shooting .45 ACP in competition that Ti cylinders are often effective in eliminating the N-frame DA cylinder notch peening. Not sure how that would go on a lifetime of shooting an aluminum K-frame .22LR cylinder. Not sure the 317 and 43C are relevant there, as the smaller cylinder is a different world for rotational inertia. I have read speculation about debris becoming embedded in the cylinder where it turns on the yoke at the front.

I have a 617-2 6" 10-shot that came with the aluminum cylinder and bead blasted matte finish, after many, many thousands of rounds and 15-20 years later, I started to get some lead spitting and I decided to send it back to Smith to get it tuned up. They returned it with a new stainless steel cylinder (for free) and it is back to its' previous glory. It looks a little strange with the shiny SS cylinder, but I'm not mad about it. It is still my favorite revolver, still gets a steady diet of lead and it will never find a new home.

[dgg9]

It looks a little strange with the shiny SS cylinder, but I'm not mad about it. It is still my favorite revolver, still gets a steady diet of lead and it will never find a new home.

I have the same gun and indeed the previous owner had the SS cylinder installed.

Its ridiculously accurate and easy to shoot. Everyone should consider one

This is one reason my Advantage Arms conversion kits haven’t seen the light of day in years.

[Flashman]

I have a 617-6 with the lock. I like the idea of the plug but keep in mind, if the gun goes back to S&W it better be removed beforehand. Mine is used for practice and Steel matches. Unfortunately, it has traveled across country to the S&W factory for multiple problems over seven years:
1. Sights horribly misaligned/barrel misaligned (2);
2. Shotgun pattern accuracy;
3. Crane failure;
4. Light strikes (3).

Presently the round count is close to 18,500 rounds.

That said, it is a wonderful revolver, ergonomic and very shootable. During the 22 ammo droughts round count was down (and June and July when it was back and forth to the factory), but it is back up to weekly practice plus matches.

I use the original DS10 Classic speedloaders which are excellent.

[OlongJohnson]

Anyone have experience with both these and 6 3/4" barrel Buck Marks or Challengers? Not exactly the same, but I already have some of the latter.