1,000 Lumen X300U

[s0nspark]

I am definitely NOT in the "all the lumens all the time" camp. In many ways, the current marketing race to "more lumens" is counter-productive, especially if you plan on using this newly "upgraded" X300 for home defense. Something to consider: with dark-adapted vision (like waking up to a bump-in-the-middle-of-the-night), indoors 1,000 lumens will blind you too.

Hmm. More lumens/candela from a quality light simply gives you more options. You can always use it indirectly if shining it directly on a surface or scene is overpowering. You can't, however, goose a weak light to give you more when it isn't enough ;-)

[orionz06]

I am definitely NOT in the "all the lumens all the time" camp. In many ways, the current marketing race to "more lumens" is counter-productive, especially if you plan on using this newly "upgraded" X300 for home defense. Something to consider: with dark-adapted vision (like waking up to a bump-in-the-middle-of-the-night), indoors 1,000 lumens will blind you too.

I have spent a lot of time testing different lights for the exclusive use indoors for self defense with dark adapted vision. I have a collection of lights that range from sub 1-lumen to over 1,200 lumens. My experimentation takes place in the middle of the night with vision adapted to the very low level of ambient light inside our house. With my vision adapted to those levels, I find something in the 10 to 20 lumen range provides enough light to positively identify a potential adversary without blinding myself in the process. Even 60 lumens creates a momentary "sting" to my vision that takes a second to adapt to. If I fire up my 1,000 lumen Malkoff Wildcat in that same scenario, I am out of the fight from total, squinty-eye blindness for way too long due to the intense splash-back of light.

Here's another experiment, this one outdoors at night: our backyard is perhaps about 100 feet deep by 100 feet wide, completely surrounded by woods. About 300 feet away is a pond that is visible through the woods. With night adapted vision, I can see the reflections from the surface of the pond and the outlines of the trees between my back yard and the pond. Using that same 1,000 lumen light, the immediate woods looks like daylight but everything beyond that goes total black. In other words, my vision adapts to the high level of illumination provided by the light, but at the expense of being able to see anything beyond. If I do the same with up to about 60 lumens of light, I can clearly see detail in everything that is illuminated and at the same time, maintain the limited "night vision" of the trees and the pond.

It has been through this process that I've come to appreciate the utility of lower-lumen light sources that are less likely to disrupt my low light adapted vision.

This is NOT to say that high-powered WMLs do not have their place, as they most certainly do. If one is going from bright light into low light (like stepping into a dark warehouse from daylight conditions), more lumens is most certainly better. If the light itself is to be used as a close-range weapon to disorient an adversary, then more lumens is better. But with any high-powered light that is used intermittently comes the disadvantage of temporarily compromising dark-adapted vision between those bursts of intense light.

I'm sure SF will sell plenty of the latest, more powerful X300 but for my use on a pistol for indoor home defense in low light conditions, the inability to select a lower output level greatly limits its utility. Depending on how you use an artificial light source, more is not always better.

Hmm. I've done similar, perhaps not as intensive as this sounds though. My eyes were smoked once my X300 was turned on. For that reason once the cat's outta the bag I want it all, I want it now, and I want more. The X300-1K is a placeholder for the 1500 lumen version.

[s0nspark]

Hmm. I've done similar, perhaps not as intensive as this sounds though. My eyes were smoked once my X300 was turned on. For that reason once the cat's outta the bag I want it all, I want it now, and I want more. The X300-1K is a placeholder for the 1500 lumen version.

Let's just do 2k. No one would ever need more ... j/k

[NH Shooter]

If I could have it my way, I'd want a X300U-A (QD mount) with the Streamlight-style switch that rotates - one direction for high (how ever many lumens they want to pack in), the opposite way for low (around 50 lumens would IMO be about right). While they're at it, eliminate the constant-on lock at the end of the switch travel so it's strictly momentary operation. That in combination with a good hand-held light would IMO pretty much cover all the bases.

BTW, I'll be at the Sig Academy this weekend for the Low Light Pistol Operator course. I'll be bringing a few hand-held lights, including the Malkoff Bodyguard (600 lumens) and another 1-CR123 size Malkoff with their M61NLL (60 lumen) drop-in. Trying a selection of EDC torches in low-light, live-fire exercises will certainly shed some light on this subject. :-)

[s0nspark]

If I could have it my way, I'd want a X300U-A (QD mount) with the Streamlight-style switch that rotates - one direction for high (how ever many lumens they want to pack in), the opposite way for low (around 50 lumens would IMO be about right). While they're at it, eliminate the constant-on lock at the end of the switch travel so it's strictly momentary operation. That in combination with a good hand-held light would IMO pretty much cover all the bases.

That would be an interesting setup.

I'd like it to be programmable as to which direction was which for low and high... and, personally, I wouldn't want to lose always-on functionality. I use that a lot more than momentary.

[Trukinjp13]

I prefer the Surefire switching by a long shot personally. I also do not want a rotary switch for hi and low. When I need it in a split second I do not want to hit the switch the wrong way. If I am using it in either hand the switching would then be different for up and down. Also I would never use my pistol for low light work, that is what my handheld is for.

Personally. I would prefer the surefire switching with a bezel twist for hi and low. This gives me a option for low that is very deliberate. My light would always be on hi and only switched to low when needed. I like to have a push for momentary and rotary to lock on. This is easy for one handed manipulations as well as two.

Ever since doing some training at night with a streamlight and the surefire I will always prefer the Surefire for defensive purposes. I just do not like the rotary one way for momentary and one way for constant.


As far as lumens the 600 is pretty much the top of what I would want inside my house. And that seems excessive to me. But it does not blind me and I can id a target quickly.

[spinmove_]

This ^^^ was significant for me. The new XH series lights require new holsters for on and off duty. That alone becomes an issue.

As for the Streamlight products, I’m fine with their output. However because of the strobe feature that cannot be permanently disabled there is very little chance I’ll buy any more of their lights.

This. Backwards compatibility is nice, although I don’t have any light bearing holsters. Moreso the fact that disco-mode is a thing that can’t be removed is a problem. I like Surefire’s switchology better too.


Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

[NH Shooter]

Switching output modes via a bezel switch is indeed a slick interface. I use the high-low bezel switch with my Malkoff lights and very much like it. My only concern with a bezel switch on a X300 is that in most cases it would require flesh out front of the muzzle.

Another discovery that surprised me;

I had recently purchased a M61NLL 60-lumen drop-in for one of my EDC lights. I was out one night with that light and one with a Malkoff M361 drop-in that produces 400 lumens on high. I had spent about 10 minutes admiring the new 60-lumen drop-in when I turned it off and immediately turned on the 400 lumen drop-in. At first I thought something was wrong with it - it was brighter, but not that much brighter. My ability to see and discern detail was not significantly different between the 60 lumens and 400 in that outdoor setting. Note that both drop-ins use the same reflector design and have identical beam patterns. This leads me to believe that if I activated a light at 60 lumens instead of 400 or 500, it would most likely not make a critical difference.

I also agree that I would only use the WML if I intended to fire the pistol. In all other cases I would default to a hand held - at this point I am using a hand held for both search and firing anyway.

[Gio]

This ^^^ was significant for me. The new XH series lights require new holsters for on and off duty. That alone becomes an issue.

As for the Streamlight products, I’m fine with their output. However because of the strobe feature that cannot be permanently disabled there is very little chance I’ll buy any more of their lights.

The strobe can be permanently disabled on TLR-1 HL's. It uses the same 10-tap programming that their handheld lights use.

[Gio]

I am definitely NOT in the "all the lumens all the time" camp. In many ways, the current marketing race to "more lumens" is counter-productive, especially if you plan on using this newly "upgraded" X300 for home defense. Something to consider: with dark-adapted vision (like waking up to a bump-in-the-middle-of-the-night), indoors 1,000 lumens will blind you too.

There is a definite difference in how light sensitive you are when waking up from a dead sleep vs. already being awake, such as a law enforcement search of a dark area. One technique when waking up from a dead sleep is to start activating the light by indirectly shining it on the ceiling or floor to get your eyes adapted to seeing light. You can also use this technique for searching/clearing your house. I don't recommend ever staring directly at the place the hot spot of the light is aimed at indoors unless you're aiming it directly at a threat.

I also agree that I would only use the WML if I intended to fire the pistol. In all other cases I would default to a hand held - at this point I am using a hand held for both search and firing anyway.

A WML can be very useful for searching indoors if you use it indirectly as described above. If there is a chance there is a threat inside, I use a WML 100% to clear a building. After the building has been cleared of people, I will switch to a handheld if we are searching for anything else like evidence. At this point in where we are with lights and technology, a handheld light should be a last resort/backup for use in a gun fight as a LEO, not the primary plan. I think it's much less critical for non-LE, outside of home defense, to have a WML because the chances of searching or being in a structure where there is no ambient light is almost non-existent for most people.