Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

[tadawson]

It might be. I’m returning this admittedly cheap pump and will try another. I decided to risk depressing the valve stem, and it does move easily - no air or water was released, so I think the membrane is ok.

From reading, a static pressure of 80 psi is high enough to cause problems with appliances. I really need to look at getting a pressure regulator installed. I also emailed our water utility to ask their range of acceptable static pressures in case it’s something on their end.

I agree . . . no air or water either means the port is clogged (possible, but not likely if membrane is OK), or all air is lost. If dry and no air, that Schraeder core is the only seal that can have let it out . . . might consider changing the core while you are at it, or you may lose air again. And back it with a good metal cap with a rubber seal in it. That setup is used in AC systems high and low, up to 450psi or so . . . but the cores are more for service reasons and not a primary seal.

Not sure on your pressure . . . my home with a we'll runs more like 40 to 45, and not sure on the one with city water. No PX proper with city, but they might have put it equivalent with pipe stubs in tne wall upstairs . . . . just know we have never has a problem.

[hufnagel]

Mine has good clearance, so I should be ok. I really hope I can replace it with a tankless before too long.

Please, do a LOT of research on tankless, especially find reviews from people in your area.
Some of the reasons I decided NOT to go tankless were: maintenance, thermal lift capability, ROI, installation expenses
I now know of several people who went tankless about 10-15 years ago, and either regret it or have gone back to tank installs.

That's not to say I disagree with all tankless either; I put one in my garage right where I installed a new hot & cold water outlet, because I didn't want to have to run 2 water lines completely across my house to do it from my main water heater. It's a cheapie electric water heater, but it does the job in the winter of taking most of the chill off for when I need to wash down the cars and jeep after plowing.

[HeavyDuty]

Please, do a LOT of research on tankless, especially find reviews from people in your area.
Some of the reasons I decided NOT to go tankless were: maintenance, thermal lift capability, ROI, installation expenses
I now know of several people who went tankless about 10-15 years ago, and either regret it or have gone back to tank installs.

That's not to say I disagree with all tankless either; I put one in my garage right where I installed a new hot & cold water outlet, because I didn't want to have to run 2 water lines completely across my house to do it from my main water heater. It's a cheapie electric water heater, but it does the job in the winter of taking most of the chill off for when I need to wash down the cars and jeep after plowing.

I definitely will - this is going to be a planned upgrade, not a failure replacement. I have a few friends who have had them and love everything about them. Fuel cost is fairly high here, or at least higher than natural gas was in northern IL. But I will do a cost benefit analysis and go from there.

[HeavyDuty]

I had a plumber out today for an estimate. They were outrageous ($850 for a pressure regulator) but they told me on the phone that it looked like the expansion tank had failed. I’m not entirely sure (and I thought their $350 quote to screw in a new one was even more outrageous than the pressure regulator quote) but at the cost of new 2 gallon tanks, I can swap that out myself. I’m looking for alternate quotes on the pressure regulator.

Is there a preferred brand for expansion tanks?

[DMF13]

I had a plumber out today for an estimate. They were outrageous ($850 for a pressure regulator) but they told me on the phone that it looked like the expansion tank had failed. I’m not entirely sure (and I thought their $350 quote to screw in a new one was even more outrageous than the pressure regulator quote) but at the cost of new 2 gallon tanks, I can swap that out myself. I’m looking for alternate quotes on the pressure regulator.

Is there a preferred brand for expansion tanks?

I have no idea what might be a preferred brand for an expansion tank, however at my previous house, about 4 years ago I paid approx. $250 (don't remember the exact amount) to have a PRV installed, and an additional shut off valve installed just prior to the PRV. Just shy of two years ago, at my new house, I paid approx. $325 (again, I can't remember the exact amount) for just a PRV. On the first one I provided the valves. On the most recent one it included the price of the valve, provided by the plumber.

There is no way I'd pay $850 just for the PRV. $350 to replace an expansion tank seems ridiculous too, if it's just swapping the tank. If you need a mounting bracket, and there are other issues, maybe, but just the tank, no way. 2 gallon tanks go for $20-$40 at full retail at H-D and Lowes.

[MistWolf]

Pressure regulators can get expensive.

Pressure relief valves for the water heater should run about $20

[hufnagel]

I had a plumber out today for an estimate. They were outrageous ($850 for a pressure regulator) but they told me on the phone that it looked like the expansion tank had failed. I’m not entirely sure (and I thought their $350 quote to screw in a new one was even more outrageous than the pressure regulator quote) but at the cost of new 2 gallon tanks, I can swap that out myself. I’m looking for alternate quotes on the pressure regulator.

Is there a preferred brand for expansion tanks?

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-1...Expansion-Tank

I used this one.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-00...eaded-F-Outlet

and this.

[HeavyDuty]

Pressure regulators can get expensive.

Pressure relief valves for the water heater should run about $20

I’m seeing component prices for the pressure regulator of around $50 - $75. I’m tempted to do it myself, I can sweat copper. There’s even Sharkbite type regulators, but I’m not sure I trust the fittings on those.

The PRV was less than $20.

[HeavyDuty]

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-1...Expansion-Tank

I used this one.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-00...eaded-F-Outlet

and this.

Watts seems to be the preferred brand. I think that if I do it myself I’ll add a permanent pressure gauge, too.

[hufnagel]

I thought about the permanent pressure gauge, but decided I could just as easily run one on the water heater drain valve. I think the cost delta was pretty large as well, hence my choice.