Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
Still leaking after pressure relief valve replacement. I know there is a backflow preventer at the meter, but I don’t think it’s a pressure regulator - I’ll look to be sure. A bicycle pump arrives today, I’ll check the expansion tank and charge it if needed. I’ll also find a pressure gauge and check the line pressure. Last step will be to replace the expansion tank if needed.
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
Ive been watching this discussion, ive had the same issue, pressure relief valve leaking when i took a shower, city water, new meter, new plumbing, new water heater.
Got the gauge, 60 psi static pressure. The indicator arrow went to 150 psi when I took a shower and the water heater did its thing, then dropped back to 60 when used again. Installing an expansion tank next. I never had one, but my experience is mainly on well systems, which have a pressure tank.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
The well tank serves as the cushion for thermal expansion.
If you have "street water" with no back flow device or PRV, the excess pressure from thermal expansion backs up into the water tower.
But if you DO have a back flow device or PRV on the your connection to the street water main, you will need a thermal expansion tank.
Be sure to set the air charge in the tank to the pressure in your plumbing system before installing, 40 psi is the default.
I bought the expansion tank at the same time as the gauge, just wanted to confirm what seemed apparent. Think I have the needed parts on hand other than the tank. ll check it again after getting the expansion tank set up.
Edit: Im also glad i put in a floor drain near the water heater, so whatever water escaped wasnt a problem, and if I have to service it later it wont create a mess.
And thanks everyone that gave good advice on what was happening.
Last edited by Malamute; 11-25-2020 at 08:34 PM.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Def sounds like when you shower, hot exits and is replaced by cold. Turn shower off, cold heats and expands, trapped by check valve, and *bingo* 150psi (capped by the leakage on the overpressure).
I just put the pressure valve on the hose bib, it’s the easiest to access. My static pressure is 80 psi. That seems on the high end, right? I’m thinking installing a pressure regulator at the meter when I change out the house side shutoff to a ball valve is in order.
Next I’ll turn off the water, relieve the pressure and try to charge the expansion tank to 80 psi - I picked up a bicycle pump that can do 120 psi.
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
Crap. I can’t get any air into the tank. I’m a little leery of dicking with the Schrader valve, if the membrane is ruptured I can end up with a water leak that I won’t be able to turn off.
It may be plumber time.
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”