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Thread: Refinishing a m64

  1. #31
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Whitlock View Post
    The other cool thing about stainless is that you can break sharp edges or give it that "melted" treatment without refinishing other than what is being discussed here.
    Ive done that on several blued guns that had sharp edges, they just have unblued edges in spots now, but they arent sharp.

  2. #32
    I saw a guy take the cylinder out of a stainless S&W, put the ejector rod in a cordless drill, and spin the cylinder while using a brush and solvent to scrub the front of the cylinder to remove the powder burn. Couldn't wrap my brain around that.

  3. #33
    Site Supporter Lon's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
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    Dayton, Ohio
    I prefer the bead blasted look on stainless. Easy and cheap, usually.
    Formerly known as xpd54.
    The opinions expressed in this post are my own and do not reflect the opinions or policies of my employer.
    www.gunsnobbery.wordpress.com

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by LtDave View Post
    The best thing I’ve found to match the brushed factory finish is 3M Trizact foam backed 3000 grit abrasive. Amazon has it for about $6 a package. Flitz polish works great if you want a high polish finish, but it will not look like a factory finish. I’ve polished several guns with Flitz.
    No, no it doesn't. This is Semichrome but Flitz isn't any different looking.

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  5. #35
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAH 3rd View Post
    I saw a guy take the cylinder out of a stainless S&W, put the ejector rod in a cordless drill, and spin the cylinder while using a brush and solvent to scrub the front of the cylinder to remove the powder burn. Couldn't wrap my brain around that.
    Um, yeah. Modern gun cleaner (I've used Bore Tech Carbon Remover), a copper brush, a bit of scrubbing by hand, done. (I don't usually bother to remover the black marks from the front of the cylinder all the way, rather I just give it a light scrubbing to ensure there is no gunk build-up. But I did remove all of it at least once. Can't remember why, just trying to see if it was hard to do I think. It wasn't. )

  6. #36
    Member jtcarm's Avatar
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    Jul 2018
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    Texas Cross Timbers
    Those VZ grips give me a headache!

  7. #37
    Site Supporter
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    Jul 2017
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    Texas
    Clean it up with Flitz paste on a soft cloth and use same on a Qtip for scratches. You can use a brown industrial paper towel for a more aggressive application after using the cloth for general cleanup. If you avoid the temptation of cranking up the Dremel tool, you will be pleased with the outcome. Then keep this fine revolver. Also, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

  8. #38
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    While we're at it. What are your favorite grips on stainless guns?
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    Factory Magna PC or round butt stocks with a Tyler T grip.

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