Originally Posted by Alan0354
It's not difficult to replace if it's intact, if it breaks it's much tougher. When I was told by someone at Glock about people sending their frames back to have them repaired, it's probably a typical answer they give for non-armorers working on them.
The video said it should be replaced every 10,000 rounds. I doubt I will shoot 1000 rounds as it's going to be a self defense gun. I just don't believe in putting a lot of rounds through the ones I rely on self defense. I just shoot enough to proof it's reliable and stop. I shoot with either my Ruger Mark II or my Colt Gold Cup for practice. I don't rely on those two.
I do some gunsmithing, have all the tools and work shop, it just doesn't look hard at all. I just changed the mainspring plunger on my Ruger Mark II the day before, it's harder than this already. Guns are never hard to work on, they are very simple and parts are big(relatively).
I have changed several over the years.Wow, I've been told incorrectly or my information is very out of date. My mistake
I just looked them up online and apparently it's possible but a pain in the ass. Probably a good idea to try and find a few spares if you have Gen 1-4's.
It just cannot be hard, there's only the slide stop holding it down, no matter how it got jam, you just need to remove the slide stop and it will just fall out!!! Take off the slide, it's right in front of you already. Unless one never use tools and never have mechanical inclination, this is as easy as it gets. Even changing the extractor is harder. At least when changing the extractor, you have to slide out the back plate of the slide and have to be careful not to let the spring bounces out. There's nothing to bounce out here. Just remover the slide stop and that's it. See the picture, the spring is right there pointed by the red arrow!!!
Last edited by Alan0354; 02-11-2021 at 04:29 PM.
Yes they can be difficult when they break and leave a very small piece in the frame.It just cannot be hard, there's only the slide stop holding it down, no matter how it got jam, you just need to remove the slide stop and it will just fall out!!! Take off the slide, it's right in front of you already. Unless one never use tools and never have mechanical inclination, this is as easy as it gets. Even changing the extractor is harder. At least when changing the extractor, you have to slide out the back plate of the slide and have to be careful not to let the spring bounces out. There's nothing to bounce out here. Just remover the slide stop and that's it. See the picture, the spring is right there pointed by the red arrow!!!
I have to see it when I get my Glock tomorrow. I just don't see it from the video. The video suggested changing the spring every 10,000 rounds, don't wait for it to break.
Of cause everything has complication, like changing the plunger on the Ruger Mark II mainspring should be not difficult, but it turned out the pin was stuck very tight and I had to use special technique to drift it out. But it's not hard.
Taking apart a mechanical watch and put it back together is what I called "hard". Gun smithing is not in the same league.
I just received the extractor for my Glock from LoneWolf. Just waiting for the gun. It is a forged SS part rather than MIM of the OEM from Glock.
Last edited by Alan0354; 02-11-2021 at 05:49 PM.
Okay Super Smith.
Those leaf springs can break off a little under flush with the frame and Glock throws the frame away and sends you a new one if you send it to them to fix...
For anyone that's having issues with follow-up shots, I suggest wrapping the index finger in front of the trigger guard. I found that it dramatically reduces the downward oscillation of the slide when it returns to battery. This was so effective that it was worth changing my shooting grip for.
Also, if you're going fast with this gun, it's best to just let the gun do its thing. The muzzle flip doesn't matter since the cycle is so fast. It feels best to shoot follow up shots when your mind thinks the gun is still recoiling. It might feel that the barrel is pointed a foot above where you're aiming, but it will be level by the time the second shot is fired.
You mean if the leaf spring breaks, it can break part of the frame?
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