Ugh, the 19 is down

[farscott]

All that stuff checks out

That suggests the issue is with the ratchet or the hand. I would insure there are no burrs on the ratchet. It could also be the gas ring on the yoke if you have one of the M19-3 so affected. The gas ring on K-frames was originally on the cylinder so 19-3's made between 1967 and 1974 will have it on the cylinder.

In 1974, the gas ring was moved from the cylinder to the yoke in an apparent cost reduction exercise. Serial numbers prefixes are 6K5 for round butt and 7K2 for square butt. In 1977, the M19-4 change reverted the change from 1974 due to cylinder binding. To check this, remove the cylinder and yoke from the revolver and clean the gas ring on the yoke.

[03RN]

I just had mine apart. Nothing looked off to me. No shiny metal indicating new wear or broken metal. I do not remember seeing this part.
Attachment 28017
Where does it go?

[Malamute]

No evidence of rubbing the finish on any of the parts, like the front face of the cylinder or rear of the barrel? Any lead build up in the forcing cone or back of the barrel that may be binding the cylinder face?

Id double check under the extractor star, holding the star out while looking at both parts. Some crud can stick to the underside of the star and not be evident unless looking under the star, not just in the recess in the cylinder. Flakes of flat powder can also camoflage well there.

Do you have a vise? Some copper or brass vise jaws, or heavy sole type leather? Ive used a couple shell cases mashed flat. The objective is to remove the cylinder from the frame, carefully grip the extractor rod with the brass lined jaws, use several empties in the chambers, and hand turn the cylinder apart from the rod. it should break loose and spin fairly easily. If somebody loctited it but it still came loose, it wont feel loose, but could be backed out some. Id take it apart and clean the parts, then reassemble, carefully torquing it. I havent used loc tite or had any come loose after torquing them this way. be careful, the thread are very small. Just enough torque it wont come loose by itself.

Try spinning the cylinder on the yoke tube also, it should be free spinning.

I'm strongly inclined to feel its either something under the star or the extractor rod came loose. You may be able to see the front end of the rod interfering if it backed out.

[03RN]

That suggests the issue is with the ratchet or the hand. I would insure there are no burrs on the ratchet. It could also be the gas ring on the yoke if you have one of the M19-3 so affected. The gas ring on K-frames was originally on the cylinder so 19-3's made between 1967 and 1974 will have it on the cylinder.

In 1974, the gas ring was moved from the cylinder to the yoke in an apparent cost reduction exercise. Serial numbers prefixes are 6K5 for round butt and 7K2 for square butt. In 1977, the M19-4 change reverted the change from 1974 due to cylinder binding.

That's what I was thinking. It seems like it is where the frame interfaces with the cylinder. Before I put it down for the night I was thinking it might be the hand or ratchet. I'll reinspect them in the morning.

Mines made in 69

[Lon]

I just had mine apart. Nothing looked off to me. No shiny metal indicating new wear or broken metal. I do not remember seeing this part.
Attachment 28017
Where does it go?

That’s the gas ring on a 65-3. See schematic below.

Part #6

[Malamute]

You may be able to feel any interfering of movement of the hand through the window. Should be spring loaded and move freely when cocked, and pushed in when cocked.

Sounds like you already had the cylinder parts apart, i missed that when I posted above.

[03RN]

No evidence of rubbing the finish on any of the parts, like the front face of the cylinder or rear of the barrel? Any lead build up in the forcing cone or back of the barrel that may be binding the cylinder face?

id double check under the extractor star, holding the star out while looking at both parts. ome crud can stick to the underside of the star and not be evident unless looking under the star, not just in the recess in the cylinder.

Do you have a vise? Some copper or brass vise jaws, or heavy sole type leather? Ive used a couple shell cases mashed flat. The objective is the remove the cylinder from the frame, carefully grip the extractor rod with the brass lined jaws, use several empties in the chambers, and hand turn the cylinder apart from the rod. it should break loose and spin fairly easily. If somebody loctited it but it still came loose, it wont feel loose, but could be backed out some. Id take it apart and clean the parts, then reassemble, carefully torquing it. I havent used loc tite or had any come loose after torquing them this way. be careful, the thread are very small. Just enough torque it wont come loose by itself.

Try spinning the cylinder on the yoke tube also, it should be free spinning.

I'm strongly inclined to feel its either something under the star or the extractor rod came loose. You may be able to see the front end of the rod interfering if it backed out.

It was cleaned boot camp clean down to parts tonight. Still locking up and everything is snug

I think something happened when shooting the magnums. They were just 158 grain magtech JSP but is seemed like something happened.

I'm no gunsmith but I do fit my own 1911 parts and have completely disassembled my Winchester 92 and put it back together.

[03RN]

That’s the gas ring on a 65-3. See schematic below.

Part #6

Ok, I'll pull that out tomorrow. Thanks

[03RN]

You may be able to feel any interfering of movement of the hand through the window. Should be spring loaded and move freely when cocked, and pushed in when cocked.

Sounds like you already had the cylinder parts apart, i missed that when I posted above.

The action works smoothly with no cylinder. It's seems like it might be part #9 above. That might explain why it closes on one cylinder but not on the rest. Maybe it got bent or peened.

[Malamute]

Or a small piece of bullet jacket lodged in somewhere?

Most unusual. Curious what you find.

Does the hand move in and out under spring tension with the cylinder out and cocked?

If you cock it just enough to clear the cylinder locking bolt, the cylinder will turn, Does it stick in some places and not others?

Have you opened the cylinder and spun it and looked at the end of the extractor rod to see if it wobbles while spinning?