Ugh, the 19 is down

[03RN]

So... I was at the range. Started with some .38 special. Shot some really good 25 yard groups. When I started with .357 a cylinder or 2 went through with no hitch. Then it started to get hard to cock. Then impossible. I checked the ejector rod, it was tight. If the cylinder is open and the trigger/hammer cycle fine. Everything I could think of was checked, wiped, lubed. Opening and closing the cylinder is very, very hard but if it's indexed a certain way goes in easier.

I took the side plate off, sprayed it with gun scrubber to get the grease off and check for loose parts. Nothing looks out of whack.

So, diagnose my broke gun.

[Leroy Suggs]

Check the hammer stud.

[BN]

Take a toothbrush and clean out under the ejector star.

[Tom Duffy]

End shake?

[farscott]

A few things to check.

1) Please take a look at the interface between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Is the cylinder touching the forcing cone?

2) The ejector rod uses a left-hand twist on newer guns, and right-hand twist on older guns. Any M19-1 or newer uses the left-hand threading.

3) As noted above, check under the extractor star for unburned powder or oil. That area needs to be clean and dry.

4) With the cylinder open, spin the ejector rod, looking for an eccentric rotation. If you see movement, the rod has been bent.

5) With the cylinder open and the thumbpiece in the cylinder "locked and closed" position, cock the hammer. You should see the bolt drop and then pop back into the upper position.

[03RN]

All that stuff checks out

[Lon]

If the cylinder is open and the trigger/hammer cycle fine.

Please expound on this a bit more. If the cylinder is open, you should HAVE to manually push the cylinder latch back in order to pull the trigger. If the cylinder is open and you can pull the trigger without doing that you have problems.

[03RN]

Please expound on this a bit more. If the cylinder is open, you should HAVE to manually push the cylinder latch back in order to pull the trigger. If the cylinder is open and you can pull the trigger without doing that you have problems.

Correct. It only works if I'm holding the latch.

I mentioned that to show that the trigger and hammer only bind when the cylinder is latched in place.

[Lon]

Correct. It only works if I'm holding the latch.

I mentioned that to show that the trigger and hammer only bind when the cylinder is latched in place.

Ok. Just wanted to make sure.

[Lon]

Ya know, the more I think about it I think this is similar to a problem I had with my 65. I ended up replacing the center pin in the ejector. These are the parts I replaced:


Took care of the issue.