I have not had a single malfunction in my P-07s, and neither have my buddies. In every P-07 I have tested, I have been able to induce the gun to drop the hammer to half cock from a DA pull if I interrupt the force of the trigger pull just at the moment the DA sear breaks. I can do it by sticking my finger deep so I'm pulling the trigger with my 2nd knuckle, and so the tip of my trigger finger hits the frame at just the right moment. This is a very contrived trigger pull, and I cannot make the gun do it under any normal condition, including pinching gloves or cloth behind the trigger. Bottom line: I'm not concerned about it.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
So just found out about this from the good folks at CGW - https://cajungunworks.com/product/sear-pin-p-07-p-09/
Seems to be at least part of the solution to the problem. Have a p-07 I can drop to half cock, will be ordering one soon.
The stupidity of some people never ceases to amaze me.
Humbly improving with CZ's.
Are you now, or have you ever been a member of the Doodie Project?
The stupidity of some people never ceases to amaze me.
Humbly improving with CZ's.
I had a P-07 briefly but traded it for a Beretta 92 compact as I found that I just prefer that system. I never experienced any malfunctions with my P-07 in the period that I had it, but probably had less than 500 rounds through it. It is probably possible to drop the hammer to half cock from the DA pull on many TDA pistols under the right conditions. The P-07 probably is not unique in that way. If you interrupt the trigger pull right at the moment of the DA break and have sufficient spring force to reset the trigger fast enough and sufficient spring force to reset the sear fast enough, it is possible to catch the half cock notch before the hammer finishes its travel. It may be easier to accomplish with a lighter main/hammer spring because this may make the hammer fall slower. It is also probably easier to do if the specific pistol tends to release the hammer earlier in the DA stroke due to variances in manufacturing tolerances or wear to the parts.
In this P-07 to PX4C comparison thread, the topic of the P-07 drop to half cock issue was brought up. I had mentioned on that thread that I was able to make a Beretta 92 do something similar as well.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....mparison/page3
As I mentioned in the above thread, I was able to make a Beretta 92 WC Cent Tac engage the half cock, at least momentarily, from the DA pull. If I recall correctly, in most of these cases, it resulted in the hammer still continuing past the half cock position to the fully rested hammer position, however, it did have a noticeable, loud hitch at the half cock position before doing so. I believe I was able to make it stop completely at the half cock once, but I could be wrong. The way I induced the malfunction was by oscillating the trigger near the DA break point (while unloaded obviously). Basically, by twitching the trigger back and forth, I was intentionally trying to reset the trigger, sear, etc. just in time for the hammer half cock notch to catch while falling from the DA pull. Sometimes I'd short stroke it, other times, it would just drop the hammer as normal in a DA pull. About 1 in 30 attempts, I could get it to behave erratically. There is no actual reason to do this other than purely "academic" interest to see if I could do it. It would probably never occur under normal use, so I do not see it to be a problem.
The specific pistol had a moderately worn trigger bar. During dry fire, the sight movement from trigger overtravel was noticeably worse than my other Berettas. Since the overtravel was worse, this would suggest that the hammer was releasing in the DA pull earlier in the trigger stroke than it does in my other Beretta pistols. I was able to make it occur using the hammer spring that came with the action tune (probably 13#), as well as with a 16# hammer spring. Swapping the trigger bar with a new WC trigger bar resolved the issue entirely. I would guess that even swapping with a new Beretta OEM trigger bar would have also resolved it. I was unable to get my other 92s or my PX4 to do this. My other 92 pistols did not have as much wear on the trigger bar. Even without replacement of the trigger bar, the pistol was still fully functional except that it would light strike with the 13# hammer spring occasionally. I don't consider these occurrences to be a problem with the Beretta design, WC action tunes, or even a real problem at all since it does not occur unless you make a deliberate effort to induce a failure. Similarly, if I had experienced this in a P-07, I would not be alarmed unless it was occurring during regular use.
Last edited by FreedomFries; 07-15-2019 at 01:46 PM.
I just got a Shadow2 to drop to half cock by incompletely pulling the trigger. I can’t easily repeat it, and have never in 100s of thousands of trigger pulls had it happen normally.
Last edited by Clusterfrack; 07-31-2019 at 02:55 PM.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
This is not about an ignition problem, but another issue I discovered with my new CGW P09. CGW installed one of their Pro Packages on it and I recently added Dawson Precision #300-143 sights. Just confirmed zero with it yesterday and this evening I decided to remove the decockers and install the ambi thumb safety on this pistol so I could get a feel of how the pistol handled when fired from Condition 1 carry.
Removal of the decockers and installation of the ambi safety couldn't be simpler. There are more than several instructional videos on the internet showing the process. I was able to perform the swap in about five minutes total.
However . . . after installing the ambi safety I cannot get it to work. I reviewed the aforementioned videos literally dozens of times and can't see that I have done anything wrong. I have removed and reinstalled the ambi safety so many times this evening that I think I could do it in the dark without the use of a light! When the ambi safety is installed, it simply freezes up and will not move. I have tried it with the frame separated from the slide and with the slide on the frame. I have carefully lubricated all pertinent parts in the gun. I have tried it with the hammer cocked, fully down, and at half cock position.
When I install the left side safety lever and snap it fully into place, the safety completely freezes up in the "in-between safety on and safety off" position. It cannot be moved up or down, whether it is disassembled from the slide or fully assembled. The hammer can be cocked, the slide racked, and the trigger acts and falls normally - Just no safety at all!
If I install the left side safety lever and only push it about 3/4 of the way into place (just far enough for the axle of the left lever to mate with the receptacle of the right safety lever, but not fully seated) the safety will go into the "safe" position perfectly. But as soon as the lever is moved off the "safe" position, it completely locks in the "in-between"position described above.
Any suggestions or advice? I am at my mountain home in northern AZ now, and if I haven't figured it out, I will drop it off at CZ Custom in Mesa when I return to my Mesa home. It is frustrating, and I am almost positive I am not installing the ambi safety incorrectly. It is so simple and straightforward I'm not certain there IS a way to install it incorrectly!