Skateboard tape and draw speed

[JHC]

Mucho tape on standard Gen 3's, none needed on RTF2s or Gen 4s for me. For my purposes, I judge my draw is fast enough for now and since it's one draw vs many shots in a string, I prioritize the shooting part higher than cutting time from the draw. Especially since I don't exactly have a gorilla's grip.

For reference, way slower than GJM, but I was blazing for me last week with multiple 1.09-1.19 first shot alphas on F2S using an RTF2 G17. That is right at the edge of all the speed I can use since even at that pace I have a devil of a time seeing much more than metal on meat and awareness of the bright HD front post in the view. I was sinking the grip so I was happy.

[GJM]

Mucho tape on standard Gen 3's, none needed on RTF2s or Gen 4s for me. For my purposes, I judge my draw is fast enough for now and since it's one draw vs many shots in a string, I prioritize the shooting part higher than cutting time from the draw. Especially since I don't exactly have a gorilla's grip.

For reference, way slower than GJM, but I was blazing for me last week with multiple 1.09-1.19 first shot alphas on F2S using an RTF2 G17. That is right at the edge of all the speed I can use since even at that pace I have a devil of a time seeing much more than metal on meat and awareness of the bright HD front post in the view. I was sinking the grip so I was happy.

I think the G4/5 surface treatment is perfect, and wish all my pistols had it. Can you discern a difference in your draw between your Gen 4 pistols bare, and the taped up Gen 3?

It isn’t so much the .10-.15 delta with tape that bothers me, but the increased chance of a really bad grip, that can screw up a whole bunch of shots.

[JHC]

I think the G4/5 surface treatment is perfect, and wish all my pistols had it. Can you discern a difference in your draw between your Gen 4 pistols bare, and the taped up Gen 3?

It isn’t so much the .10-.15 delta with tape that bothers me, but the increased chance of a really bad grip, that can screw up a whole bunch of shots.

Not easily apparent. But I should put them head to head on a repeat of what I was working on Sunday and see. Yeah I get the catastrophic nature of a fouled draw, esp with Glocks (I noticed last year the nice 1911s were more forgiving than the G's). But figure, my draw takes twice as long as yours so I should have less risk of hitting a really bad grip.

[GJM]

Not easily apparent. But I should put them head to head on a repeat of what I was working on Sunday and see. Yeah I get the catastrophic nature of a fouled draw, esp with Glocks (I noticed last year the nice 1911s were more forgiving than the G's). But figure, my draw takes twice as long as yours so I should have less risk of hitting a really bad grip.

Don't sell yourself short on increasing your draw speed, as I saw a significant improvement in just the last year. Lots of variables -- holster, exact holster position, holster tension, type pistol, surface treatment, actively listening for the beep. A little bit here, a little bit there adds up!

[JHC]

Don't sell yourself short on increasing your draw speed, as I saw a significant improvement in just the last year. Lots of variables -- holster, exact holster position, holster tension, type pistol, surface treatment, actively listening for the beep. A little bit here, a little bit there adds up!

I'll work on it. Last year after Gabe's class I almost exclusively drew to one or more hits to a 4x6. That was my lower A zone and anything off it was a fail. A D1 in the 1.35 zone was quick with most 1.45-1.50 across guns and calibers. Now, drawing to the one of the two major sport's full A zones . . . feels wild. I can speed things up.

[LSP552]

Yeah I get the catastrophic nature of a fouled draw, esp with Glocks (I noticed last year the nice 1911s were more forgiving than the G's). But figure, my draw takes twice as long as yours so I should have less risk of hitting a really bad grip.

Add me to the list of those who find the Glock grip less forgiving, compared to my Berettas and SIGs. My 4th gen Glocks don’t need tape. I have a couple of 3rd gen Glocks (early 2 pin 17 and 34) that have become sooo slick over time and use they need tape to not sip just looking at them.

When I can get away with it, I like just a strip down the outside blackstrap and frontstrap. This doesn’t interfere with my draw or concealment. Unfortunately, I also have those old Glocks that need the full Talon treatment.

[JHC]

Add me to the list of those who find the Glock grip less forgiving, compared to my Berettas and SIGs. My 4th gen Glocks don’t need tape. I have a couple of 3rd gen Glocks (early 2 pin 17 and 34) that have become sooo slick over time and use they need tape to not sip just looking at them.

When I can get away with it, I like just a strip down the outside blackstrap and frontstrap. This doesn’t interfere with my draw or concealment. Unfortunately, I also have those old Glocks that need the full Talon treatment.

I love me some Glock. But boy, if I stick a bad grip, the hit is gonna suck bigly. I can foul the grip on the 1911s and get a pretty decent hit most of the time.

[Robinson]

I can foul the grip on the 1911s and get a pretty decent hit most of the time.

Interesting that you say that. I've always found it a requirement to get a proper grip when drawing a 1911 -- not necessarily because of where the shot will go but because of the multiple safety mechanisms that have to be manipulated successfully.

[ViniVidivici]

I used to love skateboard tape on the frontstrap of 1911s.

Running Glocks now, 2 and 3 Gen, I stiple the frontstraps. Finger grooves 9n Gen 3s go away.

I would run the tape on the grip sides, as it makes for a rock solid grip. I don't, only because they're "working guns", and the tape abrades skin and clothing somethin' fierce. If I ran any for solely competition, I'd keep 'em that way.

As far as the whole grip shifting thing, I was taught that the goal should be to always establish a firm firing grip on the gun IN the holster, and draw and shoot from that point.

I personally won't use any carry method or holster that does not allow that.

[GJM]

I used to love skateboard tape on the frontstrap of 1911s.

Running Glocks now, 2 and 3 Gen, I stiple the frontstraps. Finger grooves 9n Gen 3s go away.

I would run the tape on the grip sides, as it makes for a rock solid grip. I don't, only because they're "working guns", and the tape abrades skin and clothing somethin' fierce. If I ran any for solely competition, I'd keep 'em that way.

As far as the whole grip shifting thing, I was taught that the goal should be to always establish a firm firing grip on the gun IN the holster, and draw and shoot from that point.

I personally won't use any carry method or holster that does not allow that.

The issue is if your grip is not perfect when you first grasp the pistol, or the way you grab the pistol is high and then ride down into position, grip tape can prevent you from or slow down adjusting your hand on the pistol.