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Thread: Gun Safes 2018

  1. #21
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beenalongtime View Post
    Maybe it should be asked then, who are good "safe door" sellers, for those who would want to build in/build up their own "safe" room/vault?
    This company is good but not inexpensive. https://www.lackasafe.com/categories/vaults

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by beenalongtime View Post
    Maybe it should be asked then, who are good "safe door" sellers, for those who would want to build in/build up their own "safe" room/vault?
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....oors&styleid=5
    David S.

  3. #23
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    Rochester Hills, MI
    You’ve all given me quite a bit to think about.

    1.) I don’t expect to be a high risk target for theft, but I’ll be situating the safe in such a way that at least 2 of 3 solid walls will be facing cinder block walls. It’ll also be bolted to the cement basement floor.

    2.) I don’t anticipate a fire and I don’t have super high value arms. Insurance should be able to handle most of that replacement if not completely outright.

    3.) Safe will need to be going down wood stairs for installation anyway, so it can’t be too heavy.

    As much as I’d love to have the Rolls Royce of gun safes, my limited funds for my ballistic endeavors somewhat keep me in Liberty Safe territory. It may not be the best, but it’s a hell of a lot better than a Stack-On gun cabinet. So that’s probably what I’ll end up going with.


    Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by farscott View Post
    I had to have a wrecker deliver the safe and place it in my garage as it weighs 2500 pounds empty. My total cost was less than $800 for a much better safe than any RSC.
    Not sure if I'm reading correctly, but does this mean you installed the safe in your garage?

    I'm considering where I should put mine, and space and not needing to reinforce the crawl space would make the garage possibly an easier option, but I'm slightly worried about the fact that it seems way less secure and also would be subject to temperature swings + possible humidity.

    Are those valid concerns, and if so, how did you mitigate those issues?

  5. #25
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scw2 View Post
    Not sure if I'm reading correctly, but does this mean you installed the safe in your garage?

    I'm considering where I should put mine, and space and not needing to reinforce the crawl space would make the garage possibly an easier option, but I'm slightly worried about the fact that it seems way less secure and also would be subject to temperature swings + possible humidity.

    Are those valid concerns, and if so, how did you mitigate those issues?
    Those are valid concerns. Here is what I did.

    1) We added stairs to the attic above the safe. The safe is hidden from casual view. It also lacks the characteristic "spoke handle" of a safe. It is not visible from the road, and you have to be in the garage to see it.

    2) I use five different dehumidifers with the beads that can be baked in the oven or plugged into a wall outlet to do the same thing. Each set is good for about a month in the summer and about three months in the winter. The garage also has a heat pump water heater that helps to minimize humidity.

    3) The safe sits above the concrete floor on blocks so that air can circulate underneath it. That helps minimize humidity issues as well.
    Last edited by farscott; 06-11-2018 at 02:34 PM.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by spinmove_ View Post
    You’ve all given me quite a bit to think about.

    1.) I don’t expect to be a high risk target for theft, but I’ll be situating the safe in such a way that at least 2 of 3 solid walls will be facing cinder block walls. It’ll also be bolted to the cement basement floor.

    2.) I don’t anticipate a fire and I don’t have super high value arms. Insurance should be able to handle most of that replacement if not completely outright.

    3.) Safe will need to be going down wood stairs for installation anyway, so it can’t be too heavy.

    As much as I’d love to have the Rolls Royce of gun safes, my limited funds for my ballistic endeavors somewhat keep me in Liberty Safe territory. It may not be the best, but it’s a hell of a lot better than a Stack-On gun cabinet. So that’s probably what I’ll end up going with.


    Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy
    make sure you cant just cut through the side of a liberty safe, otherwise it is basically a stack on cabinet with a fancy door.

  7. #27
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    Rochester Hills, MI
    Quote Originally Posted by Grey View Post
    make sure you cant just cut through the side of a liberty safe, otherwise it is basically a stack on cabinet with a fancy door.
    How would I go about determining if I can just cut through the side of a Liberty?


    Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by spinmove_ View Post
    How would I go about determining if I can just cut through the side of a Liberty?


    Sent from mah smertfone using tapathingy
    Check to see what gauge steel it is and if they fill the space with drywall or concrete. Check youtube.

  9. #29
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grey View Post
    Check to see what gauge steel it is and if they fill the space with drywall or concrete. Check youtube.
    Liberty Safes website says the UL listing is as a RSC, so they can be cut. http://www.libertysafe.com/ul-listed...lm-4-p-54.html

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by farscott View Post
    Liberty Safes website says the UL listing is as a RSC, so they can be cut. http://www.libertysafe.com/ul-listed...lm-4-p-54.html
    Not sure what buying a liberty safe gets you over any other RSC. Seriously interested because I have the same debate going on in my head.

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