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Thread: FYI- police trade in beretta 92Ds on gunbroker

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    Thanks for chipping in on this, e_stern. I ran a TCU for years, and it didn't "feel funny" to me, but what I've picked up form others on the site here and on the berettaforum.net is that the circular cam piece can benefit from some judicious polishing, as apparently it can generate some rubbing on the frame or on the mounting pin (which resulted in the triggerpull glitches/lack of smoothness/funny feels). Apparently there were some allowable manufacturing (or QC) tolerance issues...

    The advantages of the TCU was that it had had a far greater longevity (essentially lifetime-mine was run heavily for some 8-10 years) compared to the OEM lever-type trigger return spring, as the TCU utilized a coil spring. The TCU was also available in multiple triggerpull weights. I used the lighter one, which worked fine with the OEM triggerbar, but when I went to the Wilson Combat/Langdon triggerbar, the light TCU lacked sufficient "umph" for reset; so if you're going with a WC triggerbar, at a minimum I'd recommend their standard strength variant if you want to remain with a TCU. The OEM older lever-type trigger return springs that Beretta used were somewhat notorious for only lasting for some 2K triggerpull iterations, which is why the Border Patrol back in the day inveighed upon Wolff to come up with a longer-lasting replacement component for their issue Brigadiers. When I ran into the issues I experienced with insufficient reset strength with the Wilson/Langdon triggerbar, my fix was to replace the TCU with the Wilson replacement lever-type chrome silicone spring, which is doing just fine, in terms of smoothness, reset strength and longevity.

    The advice on immediately replacing the locking block replacement is probably a good idea, especially if the pistol is used with an unknown provenance and/or roundcount/maintenance record (yeah, figure the odds on having any of those available on a turn-in gun...) ToddG and others knowledgeable were emphatic, however, that the replacement block be 1. From Beretta, and 2. Properly fitted, to ensure proper mating with the slide surfaces; otherwise undue eccentric stresses will be placed on the locking block's lugs, severely limiting their lifespan. DocGKR has also noted that there are substandard (non-Beretta) replacement blocks from external vendors that he'd personally witnessed on military guns; I have no idea if LEO armorers had access to them as well, but replacing the locking block is a good common-sense precaution, and pretty inexpensive.

    In fairness to Beretta, probably 10 years or so ago, they did materially and archtecturally redesign the trigger return spring, so I believe the current forecasted lifespan for these updated springs is for 5K triggerpull iterations. If you've got any sort of a consistent dryfire program (or have the deep pockets/sponsorship for an in-depth live fire practice program), 5K triggerpulls comes up remarkably quickly. While replacing the spring isn't terribly difficult or time-consuming, if you want to go with a lever-type trigger return spring my recommendation is to go with the Wilson Combat chrome silicone one, as they claim it to be a lifetime spring. The one I personally installed in my 92D last year is running without complaint.

    It's also probably a good idea to remove and clean out the extractor, as an amazing amount of GSR gunk can accumulate in it's niche. You can also use it's niche to scrub out the firing pin recess too, although that's been less of an issue/area of concern for me personally. While I have a WC chrome silicone replacement firing pin spring, the OEM one is chugging along quite nicely, so at least for the time being I'm leaving well enough alone (although if necessary, the removal of the firing pin safety and firing pin itself is drastically simplified on the 92D compared to other 92 models utilizing safety levers). If you remove the extractor, remember to re-stake the securing pin on top of the slide after replacing, to preclude the pin from wandering out.

    Best, Jon
    I have not tried a TCU long term as I immediately noticed a "hitch" in the trigger pull with it and decided that for me the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze with it.

    I'm fine with PMI and swapping out the return springs every year or so. I don't wait until they break. Our current interval on springs is ~5,000 cycles, or as you put it, triggerpull iterations. Personally I've had so many different 92s apart so many times, it takes me about 30 seconds to swap one out so it's not a big deal for me, but for others it is probably more of an annoyance, so the TCU isn't a bad option. It's all about what the shooter prefers to run in the end imho.

    I'd agree with removing and cleaning the extractor and firing pin channel.

    DEFINITELY restake the extractor pin.
    Used to make pasta, now I make waffles.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed L View Post
    I don't follow how age or injury might make a 92D a good idea. Could you expand on that, because there is clearly something that I am not picking up that would be genuinely interested in hearing.
    I don't think this was ever answered, but my guess is Beretta has a slide mounted safety. Fumbling with with a safety, especially a slide mounted one, gets more difficult because we lose coordination over time. A hand injury can affect the ease of flipping the safety on and off with your thumb without altering your grip.

    The gun is DAO "point and pull", double strike capability. Since it's DAO it's not a bullseye trigger, you have to deliberately pull the trigger.

    Again... just a guess.

  3. #33
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    I finally picked mine up from the FFL. They look good; some honest duty wear but not bad at all. The night sights are dead but that’s ok. Now I have to clean them up and shoot them. I already ordered a Milt Sparks 55BN for carry. The bobbed hammer and rear of the slide shape makes me want to order an appendix kydex holster.
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  4. #34
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    I have my new locking block and recoil spring. In the process of installing I noticed that the pin which holds the ejector is really loose. It will essentially fall out of the gun if I turn it left.



    I also notice that there seems to be come sort of staking mark going across the head of this pin. In another Beretta 92 the pin has no play at all.

    Is there a tool I need to restake it or a best practice or so I need to just replace the pin?
    Last edited by Doc_Glock; 05-22-2018 at 03:04 PM.

  5. #35
    Member Gadfly's Avatar
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    There was a staking tool we were issued at our agencies Beretta Armorer’s course. It has no markings, so I don’t know if it is a Beretta brand tool, or something generic from Brownells. It’s not pointed like the tool I use to stake the castle nut on an M4. It’s more elongates like a dash. It was also used to stake the extractor pin on top of the slide. And on our brigadiers, the same tool staked the front sight as well.

    It does not take a ton of force to stake that. There is not any real lateral stress on that pin, and the slide would prevent it falling out during use.

    You could probably get away with no stake, but a light one won’t hurt either. Some armorer obviously removed that pin at some point and broke the factory stake.


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  6. #36
    Member JonInWA's Avatar
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    According to my old Beretta Factory Tour notes, there are 3 parts on a 92 that are factory staked, and must be re-staked if removed; the extractor retaining pin, the hammer retaining pin and the grip panel bushings. The ejector retaining pin isn't mentioned.

    I suspect that yours might have been removed in it's prior life, possibly to replace the ejector, and possibly slightly modified/polished for an easier fit when re-inserted. I'd suggest getting a new pin; if that's also loose, you might want to judiciously blue locktite it in.

    Best, Jon

  7. #37
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    FYI- police trade in beretta 92Ds on gunbroker

    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    According to my old Beretta Factory Tour notes, there are 3 parts on a 92 that are factory staked, and must be re-staked if removed; the extractor retaining pin, the hammer retaining pin and the grip panel bushings. The ejector retaining pin isn't mentioned.

    I suspect that yours might have been removed in it's prior life, possibly to replace the ejector, and possibly slightly modified/polished for an easier fit when re-inserted. I'd suggest getting a new pin; if that's also loose, you might want to judiciously blue locktite it in.

    Best, Jon
    I ended up lightly staking it with a small punch. Holding fine and it has no place to go when the gun is assembled. This part is technically called the “hammer release lever pin”

    Just awaiting my splurge VZ grips and I will call this one done.

    Mine came with a third generation locking block. I still replaced it with a new one but will keep the old around in case I break one.
    Last edited by Doc_Glock; 05-23-2018 at 12:05 AM.

  8. #38
    Member JonInWA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel View Post
    I ended up lightly staking it with a small punch. Holding fine and it has no place to go when the gun is assembled. This part is technically called the “hammer release lever pin”

    Just awaiting my splurge VZ grips and I will call this one done.

    Mine came with a third generation locking block. I still replaced it with a new one but will keep the old around in case I break one.
    That pin staking should work nicely, Enel-the situation reminds me of the pin that secures the swinging link on a 1911 that everyone stakes, but even if it isn't, the surrounding components keep things securely in place during actual use.

    And yeah, we're looking forward to seeing an image or two of your completed 92D with the new VZ grips.

    Best, Jon

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    And yeah, we're looking forward to seeing an image or two of your completed 92D with the new VZ grips.


    I am calling this one done. The dead sights work fine. I will just replace parts as they break going forward.

    I chose the tactical slant grips because they are the same thickness as the Wilson standards that come in the Brig Tac and I prefer them to the Wilson Ultra Thin aka VZ “palm swell” grips, AKA LTT grips.

    It would be cool if Beretta made a new D model. It’s a great design.

  10. #40
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    Sweet!

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