Dealership did not add oil after oil change

[Stephanie B]

Another talk with the GM who is part owner is in the works. I feel the way this was mishandled is worth more than 10k in bad press for them, just not sure they see it the same way

Right now, you've been careful not to name the dealership. Once you do, or put it on Faceblecch, then "Jim-Bob's Toyota didn't put the oil back in after an oil change on my two-year old truck, the engine got damaged and now they're trying to screw me" will be out there for all to see. Some aggressive reporter sees that and, well, not having that bad press will be worth more than the ten grand.

[nalesq]

This exact thing (oil change without actually putting in any new oil) happened to my dad, and the dealership simply replaced the entire engine.


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[fixer]

Any Quick Lube at dealers or independent shops is bottom of the barrel techs. I never use them period. All of my vehicles are maintained by master techs. It is your right as a customer to request a master tech to service your vehicle.


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Yeah that should be a PSA for everyone. The caliber of techs in the lube pit are the same ones at any quick lube place. You aren't getting a 25 year experienced technician changing your oil. You have to demand it. If you do demand the higher caliber techs, they will thank you for it because they usually only get the headaches and warranty claims that don't pay hardly anything.

The only reason to go to a dealer for an oil change is that if they mess up, they have some more recourses to fix or remedy the situation. A new 5.7 Toyota 3UR FE engine would crush a smaller lube place.

[RevolverRob]

The service Dept is trying to use the ins as fall guy for not replacing entire motor. The Gen Manager was working the trade/sales deel. My logic is it going to cost them 10 k to fix the problem, new motor. This option would fix their mistake in the quickest possible manner. They are pushing for the insurance option because it is cheapest for them.

I don’t care about what it cost for them to fix their mistake. I want a complete new motor at a minimum or a new same model truck.

Another talk with the GM who is part owner is in the works. I feel the way this was mishandled is worth more than 10k in bad press for them, just not sure they see it the same way

If you want out of this without cost. Demand a new engine and all associated labor be paid for. And that they offer am extended drivetrain warranty that covers the additional mileage to the drivetrain under the new engine warrant (e.g., 36k mile warranty on engine, you get an additional 36k on remaining drivetrain).

[fixer]

Sorry but I don't see 10K out of pocket for me as bending over backwards. I don't see a complete new motor and rental car for several weeks being less than 10K. The point is they screwed up BIG TIME, and are trying to run it thru insurance to replace only the short block, not the complete motor. Anything that oil touched should be replaced at a minimum. I can't believe they are splitting hairs on this. All this happened out of town and I was scheduled to leave on May 1, pulling a trailer. Now that's not going to happen, how do the compensate for that? They never mentioned not charging me for the initial service work. They are trying to keep their costs to a minimum. The deal they offered is to their benefit, NOT mine.
Basically what I heard, is we screwed up, but will fix half of it.

Yeah those heads will run you many thousands of dollars even with out camshafts and phasers--to get new heads--not remanufactured. I'm guessing new cylinder heads from Toyota, if you can even get them, will be close to $5000 fully assembled and ready for installation.

ETA: just called a local dealer in Lubbock.

Bare head: 1477 EACH
Cams: 461 each, 2 per head =922
Valves: Intake = 256, exhaust 400 (16 valves intake, 16 exhaust, PER HEAD)
Cam gears/Phasers: 412x2 = 824 intake, exhaust = 746
Head Gasket set: $75 per head
Head bolts: $100

Total per head: $4800.

Throw in taxes, oil, filters, coolant and easily $5000 per head. This is if you were to DIY and re use keepers, valve springs. Does not include getting valve guides pressed in. I didn't ask if valve seats were included.

My point is that $10000 out of pocket isn't even remotely fair because you'd still have to get new heads that can easily run $10,000 all in. And I can promise you those heads are damaged. That is a screaming pile of shit joke of a deal.

[BN]

I would try to dicker a better price for the trade and insist on a zero percent loan if you can't spare the 10 grand. Your old truck will give you trouble no matter what, even if it is just worry. Make your old truck their problem.

[orionz06]

they usually only get the headaches and warranty claims that don't pay hardly anything.

I can't imagine the structure varies too much but warranty claims, especially large, difficult one, are bread and butter for quite a few friends. The manufacturer pays for those and that's always good money. This is across most major brands in my area.

[Mjolnir]

Call the Toyota Customer Assistance Center and politely but sternly complain. You'll need your VIN.

Explain to them what has happened and tell them what you expect. It will - at a minimum - require a short block.

The heads and intake manifold need to be removed and inspected.

It would be less time consuming to purchase a complete engine...


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[Coyotesfan97]

I used to work at a full service gas station while going through college. One of my jobs was oil changes in the lube bay. Once you dropped the rack, added oil, and started the car you watched the oil gauge to make sure you had pressure. If you didn’t have pressure turn off the engine and check why. I never forgot to add oil but there were a couple times the drain plug wasn’t replaced. It was my bad but I also had to work the full service island and the cash register while doing LOFs. If it was busy it was crazy busy. Nothing like pumping oil on the lube bay floor to add extra work during a rush.

I was never close to being a certified mechanic but I always watched the oil gauge/light. If a Toyota tech didn’t do that they need to make it right.

[NH Shooter]

In my opinion offering you a new truck at 10k is short changing you. Offering you a new truck - taking your truck at full retail (not trade-in) + $$$ difference is the fairest deal they can make. In effect you’ll pay 5k for the 27k miles you’ve driven. That’s not a bad deal, overall.

I have to agree - getting full retail (or reasonably close to it) for your current truck towards a new one would be the best outcome. Even with a complete new engine in the truck, you would never get that as a trade-in. As much as the entire situation is a shit sandwich, you get a new truck with a new warranty with minimum outlay.

If you absolutely don't want to spend the money, then insist and a complete new crate engine direct from Toyota with documentation that is what is being installed. Bear in mind that a new engine does not reset the power train warranty. I believe the new engine installation would show up on Carfax as well in the event you decide to sell the truck.