I got silver caps to match the sensor stems on my car, too. Fleabay, and a pack of 10 or 20. Because not Porsche.
I got silver caps to match the sensor stems on my car, too. Fleabay, and a pack of 10 or 20. Because not Porsche.
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Not another dime.
PS:
Just kidding.I saw this today in a German weapons forum and thought about your cool thread.
Thank you for supporting German economy! Viel Spaß mit dem Auto!
Last edited by P30; 06-25-2020 at 12:08 PM.
Danke!Originally Posted by P30
Misc. Log Update
10/2/20 27,729 miles
Just a quick update on a couple routine items. Haven't been driving the car much, honestly, but I do try and keep it ticking over every week or so. Mostly I have it on charge on the 1A NOCO Genius unit; this is working pretty well.
I purchased another set of wiper blades, $45 through Amazon. The old ones were going on 13+ months; I just have always replaced wiper blades annually.
I have this odd recurring tick...tick...tick... noise from the right side, mostly on slowing down, mostly on braking, at slow speeds. Today after I got back from a quick run to get a haircut, I noticed it was tied to braking, and only on light application. I suspected a stone or small piece of wood picked up between the rotor and disk dust shield somehow.
Anyway, I put the car up on jackstands on the right side and slowly rotated both wheels. A slight application of the service brake confirmed, the noise was coming from the right rear. I could not see anything in the dust shield with the wheel on, so I took the opportunity to take it off.
This was the first time I’d used a number of items I’ve accumulated for an upcoming front brake job; cordless 20V impact wrench, soft-lined wheel bolt socket, Jackpoint Jackstands, Gearwrench Torque wrench, and a couple special Porsche wheel mounting guide bolts. These all worked extremely well.
After I got the wheel slid off, I inspected the brake pad to rotor area thoroughly. Nothing. Zip. Nada. Which is weird. I can only conclude maybe there is a place on the pad surface that is slightly gunked up with rust (the rotors are obviously cast iron, and the car has not had much use.)
After I got everything together, I torqued the bolts to 118 ft lbs. I’ll retorque after the next drive. I’m pondering a session of brake bedding to remove the “noise”. A more long-term solution is probably throw on a set of rear pads. The rear rotors themselves do not appear dished. I need to pick up a digital micrometer to mic the front rotors anyway, so I will grab one and see where the rear rotor disks are in relation to min th stamped on the rotor. Another genuine possibility is that there is a build up on the surface of the e-brake pads (the car has an e-brake internal to the actual service brake). My suspicion is that with infrequent use, and putting the car away after a wash, may have caused some corrosion on the e-brake surface. On the other hand, it seems the noise is absolutely tied to applying the service brakes. But honestly I dunno.
I did get a tape measure in and measured the rotor to pad thickness at 8mm. (As a reference number, the new OEM front pads I have ready to put on the front axle measure 12 mm thickness. Obviously I don’t know what the OEM rears measure, new, but with 27K miles on the rears having worn 4mm off would seem about right.
In the top picture, it looks like there's an imprint of the friction surface of the pad on the rotor. There's a dark region with a little U-shaped cutout where the wear sensor clips into the backing plate. Variations in the transfer layer like that can definitely cause variations in torque, which may lead to a ticking noise at light load. Bedding may clear it up, or you could just drive it more.
Washing the car and putting it away wet can lead to such a print forming almost immediately. Best to take it for a spin to warm things up and dry it off before putting it away. It's unlikely to have affected the e-brake surface, as water generally doesn't get into the drum. Replacing the pads will do nothing, as continuing the same behavior will lead to the same results with new versions of the same parts.
I've measured around a rotor that was exhibiting judder when the brakes were warm. There was a visible difference in the reflectivity (not color) of the transfer layer on the friction surface in one area, if you looked at it with the light at the right angle, but with a 0.0001-reading micrometer, I could identify no corresponding thickness variation. It doesn't take much to create torque variation.
Here's my recommendation for a bedding how-to:
https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...e-8-2018_1.pdf
Just for fun, note one of the authors of that paper is co-driving with Bill Auberlen at Indy in the#82 BimmerWorld M4 GT4 today.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 10-02-2020 at 03:01 PM.
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Not another dime.
Copy all.
Yup, I know who Bill Auberlin is.
I do especially like the ‘drive it more’ suggestion.
Misc. Log Update
1/14/21 28,452 miles
Not driving much these days since I retired retired. Did get over to Safety Harbor across Tampa Bay for a breakfast run.
Couple upcoming service items in Feb. Annual oil change, as well as front brake rotors and pads. Both will be DIY. Plug change is 30K, which I may have done at the dealer, as from what I’ve read is a bit fiddly on the flat six twin turbo. Maybe air filters too, since the bumper will be off and they are due at 40k.
Otherwise no issues. Still love it.
Oil Service
2/8/21 28,706 miles
Did the annual oil service on the 911 today. Car wasn't due by the mileage (10,000) but by date (12 months). Total was $89.11.
I bought the Mobil 1 5W50 A40 spec oil online, as well as the Mahle Filter and sump plug (Porsche specifies not to reuse the plug in the polymer sump.)
Process was fairly straightforward. After chocking the wheels, I got the rear end up on the Jackpoint jackstands, then opened up the filler and oil filter caps, and did a 1/4 turn of the plug with the VW/Audi specific tool:
I'd missed catching a sample for the Blackstone analysis, so I grabbed that late in the 90 minute drain that I left it for. Lubed the ring then tightened the oil filter cap to 26 Nm/19 lb ft, and poured in exactly 8.00 liters (same as last year). I reset the oil service interval with my Autel unit through the OBDII port; it's a pretty basic unit but does the job.
Good for another year.
1/4 turn? I would like to see a photo of that plug. Plus a polymer oil pan! That is a pretty interesting design choice.
Edit: https://rennlist.com/forums/992/1174...rain-plug.html
Sorry, bad choice of words. It’s about a 1/4 turn, to lock in place, after turning it loosely. Very easy to do with the Audi specific tool (which, of course, I had to buy
Yeah the polymer pan saves 4.4 lbs and was one of the advances introduced with the 9A2 3.0l biturbo engine for the 991.2 in 2017. Certainly upsets the purists who miss their threaded steel sump plugs.
As a DIYer however, the plug is dead easy to use, completely reliable, and avoids the risk of over torquing since the design ‘clicks’ into place with a slot alignment indicator. As I understand it’s a corporate part that’s used across VW/Audi, and has been for a while.
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