One think I admire about Porsche is how they have consistently kept the weight down/consistent on the 911 whilst other sports cars have bloated in general.Originally Posted by RJ
One think I admire about Porsche is how they have consistently kept the weight down/consistent on the 911 whilst other sports cars have bloated in general.
Yes, it's definitely an area of emphasis. Here's an interesting table of bodyshell weight reductions from 2005 to 2016 (the 2017 bodyshell was retained with updates):
Yes, it's definitely an area of emphasis. Here's an interesting table of bodyshell weight reductions from 2005 to 2016 (the 2017 bodyshell was retained with updates):
But but but... gonna put my purist hat on... they have turned into giant whales!!! And water pumpers!?! I never!
Turbos:
RJ, your car looks like a lot of fun and I would love to have it. Keep the updates coming. I plan to do my oil change in July, once a year regardless of mileage.
Planned Maintenance - Air Filters (Cabin/Frunk)
28,743 miles
Changed out both the cabin and frunk pre-filters today. These were due by time, but not till April.
These are normally on a two year/24,000 miles service, but due to the car sitting for a while lately, and Mrs. RJ commenting about a smell (Smell?! What smell?) I decided to go ahead and get these changed out. Cost for both (I use OEM parts where possible) was $66.29, sourced from sunsetporsche.com in Beaverton OR (they are reliable, cheap,and fast, which is not common in P-car parts. I've used them previously.)
The DIY is pretty simple. Both parts are, oddly enough, identical to those on my '14 981S. I guess they work across a number of models.
Anyway, cabin filter is replaced by undoing three plastic screws with a stubby, remove the molded foam cover piece, which fits around the filter housing, unsnap three snaps to allow the filter door cover to swing down, slide filter out and down. New filter in, cover snapped up, pad replaced, and screws back in. Only unusual tool was a teeny turner from my Picquik set I used as a stubby. Perhaps 15 minutes, 5 of which was me searching for one of the small Porsche-specific (of course!) plastic screws which had scampered out of place in the footwell and escaped, getting lodged in the old filter as I set it aside outside the car door. Grrr.
Frunk pre-filter is easy as well: remove the battery cover / tray (snaps in), undo 7 snaps around the edge of the top, slide out old, slide in new, resnap, install battery cover / tray. About 5 minutes.
Dealer costs to do this are stunning; I've seen quotes of up to $400 to perform these two simple procedures. Amazing.
Of the two, the frunk filter was the worst. I'm a bit mystified at how the creases in the filter material ended up there. It's an easy install, so perhaps whoever did it didn't take their time.
Last edited by RJ; 02-12-2021 at 11:44 AM.
Brake Service – Front
28,743 miles
Replaced front pads and rotors on the 911 (‘17 991.2 C2) today.
I used genuine Porsche OEM pads and rotors. I don’t like reusing old brake parts, so I also ordered new pad wear sensors (2), caliper bolts (4), brake disk rotor retaining screws (4), and brake pad spring clips (4), from Pelican Parts. Total parts cost was $743.50.
Tools/Shop Supplies
10 mm socket
18” breaker bar
19mm soft sided wheel bolt socket
20V Cordless Impact Wrench
3” extension
AAA Headlamp
BF 2 ½ lb dead blow hammer
Blue Threadlocker
Braun Rechargeable Work Light LED
Ibuprofen
Jackpoint Jackstands
Hydraulic Racing Jack 1.5T
Pad spreader
Permatex anti-seize compound
Ratchet wrench
Steel Wire Brush
Torque wrench
Torx T55 bit
WD-40
Wheel alignment pins
Zip ties
The process I used:
- Car up on jackstands
- Wheels off
- Prep zip ties, to tie caliper up out of way when it comes off
- Remove sensor wire/clips
- Remove 1x10 mm bolts to allow the hangar to swing free
- Remove 2xT55 caliper bolts
- Remove caliper, zip tie up, and open pads using spreader
- R/R 2xpads
- Remove 2xrotor screws (the impact wrench came in handy here)
- R/R rotor (pay attention, rotors are handed LEFT or RIGHT)
- Drop caliper back on rotor
- Button everything up. Caliper bolts, to 63 ft lb, 10 mm bolts to 7 ft lb DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
The cordless impact wrench is awesome. Both for taking the wheels bolts off, and the dang stubborn disk retaining screws that are almost welded on. The rotors themselves needed several doses of WD-40 to unloosen, only coming off after a few enthusiastic whacks from the dead blow hammer. The pad spreader is the perfect tool for opening up the pistons on the caliper, prior to installing the caliper over the new rotor.
I took some measurements of the old parts. The rotors were at 32.4mm. New, they are 34.0 mm, with a service limit of 32.0 mm. The pads were down to about 7mm, the new pads are 12.5mm. So, from a wear perspective, the rotors were down to 5% life, and the pads perhaps over 50%. Possible that the pads were replaced once? Dunno.
A note for the Porsche purists: yes, my base C2 has red calipers. The first owner apparently had them powder coated red when he bought the car. I personally wouldn’t do that, but I’ve grown to like the look, so I’m going to leave them as is.
Pics:
On Jackpoint Jackstands
Note: If you forget to unlock the car to disable the anti-theft/tilt feature before putting it on jackstands, the alarm activates with an ear-splitting din when you get it about 2” off the floor. Ask me how I know.
Temporary wheel alignment pins come in handy taking the wheels off the hubs.
Removing the caliper bolts and brake wire mounting bracket retaining bolt
Almost done!
Was it really necessary to replace rotors?
Seems like very low mileage to replace. Vibration?
Sweet 911!
No, no vibration but it was needed sooner or later. They had a fairly pronounced lip. Tricky to get a good measurement, but near the outer edge, they were around 34.4 mm, and the inside a bit less. New, they are 32.4 mm and the service limit is 32.0 mm. Plus I had budgeted a couple days to knock this out, so it was convenient to get it done now.
I think you mis-typed a number somewhere there... do they start at 34.4, with a 32.0 limit?
Holy cow I mangled that one up, for sure.
Let me correct myself:
New disks start at 34.0 mm. The wear limit is 32.0 mm. Looking back at my notes, the minimum thickness I recorded was 32.2 mm...which means I was at around 10% life remaining to the wear limit...Sorry.
I figured it was something like that.Holy cow I mangled that one up, for sure.
Let me correct myself:
New disks start at 34.0 mm. The wear limit is 32.0 mm. Looking back at my notes, the minimum thickness I recorded was 32.2 mm...which means I was at around 10% life remaining to the wear limit...Sorry.
Makes sense to do it when you have the time, parts, and the temperature is nice.
I imagine in Tampa, February is about the ideal time to do it.
Where I live, on the other hand, it would be miserable in my unheated garage. Spring or fall is the most pleasant time for wrenching at my house.
Interesting that you managed to use up a set of rotors in less than 40,000 mi with no track days. Those must be soft rotors and tough pads.
Reply With Quote
