Info On Used Leverguns

[entropy]

I’ve done a bit of site searching on the web, but figured I would toss this out here since there is such a diverse wealth of a knowledge base...

I’m looking for information on buying used leverguns. Winchesters mainly, but also Marlins. I’ve never owned a levergun, but would like to start. Like revolvers, I’m sure there are things to look for such as end shake, lock-up etc. I dont even know where to start. A few weeks back, I came across an older Winchester in 30-30. Well worn blue, octogon barrel, old Lyman receiver sight. Sexy as all get go. I did my best looking at it for the obvious but ultimately passed on it since in the words of Donald Rumsfeld: “I don’t know what I don’t know.” If such an opportunity arises again, I’d really like to take advantage of it on the spot. It was a gorgeous old rifle, and yep...it’s gone to another home now.

I don’t expect to have the info handed on a platter. Give me a good direction or two and I will hunt it down. Not even being faintly familiar, I have no idea where to start and more importantly, where to shy away from for info.

Thanks.

[Robinson]

Mostly common sense stuff. Check the bore -- if it's dirty ask that it be cleaned for inspection. Check for any subtle bulges in the barrel. Check the crown and make sure it is sound. Make sure the lever opens and closes properly -- not too tight or too loose, and make sure the lever stays closed when you close it. Check the bolt face for any damage. Make sure there are no dents in the mag tube. Check for wood splitting where the receiver mates with the buttstock. Make sure the screw heads aren't buggered up. With well used rifles it's a good idea to check the headspace, or have it inspected by a gunsmith.

It would be nice to be able to make sure the gun feeds and ejects rounds properly but that may not be possible depending on the place of purchase. Dummy .30-30 rounds are available to make that easier.

I wouldn't be concerned with some honest wear on the gun, but stay away if it shows any obvious signs of neglect.

[MolonLabe416]

On the Winchesters, stay away from the Post-64 models.

Here’s a useful resource for manufacture date based on S/N:

http://guncollectionsonline.com/winchestermodel94.htm

The current models from Japan with the tang safety are the exception. These are very nice.

[okie john]

Not sure how deep you want to go into this or what your interests are. I have little interest in collector-grade guns, so I look for lever guns with a fair amount of wear as Robinson described above, especially if they have peep sights and they look like they've been carried a fair amount. I avoid anything with cracked wood, burred screw heads, or major changes like shortening the stock or barrel. I also keep a jointed rod with a jag, a few brushes, some oil, and a roll of electrician's tape in my car in case I find a likely candidate, so I can swab the bore if needed to finalize a sale. Use the tape to cover the joints in the rod so you don't ding the crown. Speaking of which, always check the crown on a lever gun--very few of them can be cleaned from the breech, so a lot of them collect dings on the crown which will ruin accuracy until you have them recut.

Also, in the 60's and 70's, Marlin, Winchester, and other makers made down-market versions of their guns that were sold by Sears, Montgomery Wards, and other department stores. Sometimes you can find them for significantly less than the guns sold under their names. For my uses, a 30-30 marked Glenfield is just as good as a 30-30 marked Marlin, but not everyone feels that way.

Sights are a big issue, as adding a peep sight or a scope can really bring out the best in these guns. The early versions of these guns are often not drilled and tapped, and it's probably best to leave them that way and find one that is. One downside of the down-market guns is that they may not be drilled and tapped for receiver sights or scope mounts like the ones marked Winchester or Marlin.

If you don't have a loading setup, then stick to 30-30, 44 Mag, 357 Mag, and other common calibers. Some lever guns in odd calibers like 25-35, 25-20, 38-40, etc., are sold at very low prices because the ammo is like hen's teeth. Even 35 Remington can be expensive and scarce in some places. I'd also avoid rifles chambered in 32 Special, as just a slight amount of wear to the bore can ruin accuracy.

Finally, if you really want to go down the rabbit hole, check out http://www.leverguns.com/articles/Default.htm


Okie John

[Lester Polfus]

This is all good advice.

Regarding post '64 Winchesters. I've owned a couple of examples made in the 70's and 80's that were perfectly serviceable firearms. They fed, fired, and ejected fine and were no more or less accurate than pre-64 guns. They certainly had more sheet metal stamping and such, but worked fine.

As was mentioned above, the most common problems I've seen on used lever guns is dinged up crowns, both from slamming a cleaning rod into them and driving around with the muzzle down on the floor boards and such.

I'd also look out for signs of over enthusiastic oiling, which causes oil to flow to the back of the receiver, where it soaks into the wrist of the stock, which can make them soft and prone to breaking.

As Okie John mentioned, I would familiarize myself with the various aftermarket sighting systems, decide which one of those is most attractive to you and shop for a gun accordingly.

The two most common rifles you will find will be Winchester 94's and Marlin 336's. The majority of them will be 20" barrels in 30-30 although there are certainly lots of other variations.

The Winchester will be lighter of the two guns, and most commonly found with a straight stock, although pistol grip versions exist. Pre-64 rifles will demand a premium, although as I said above, the post '64 guns typically work fine. These guns can have an aperture rear sight screwed onto the side of the receiver, but adding a scope will require drilling and tapping, a scout mount, or some very awkard scope placement. The angle eject models are much easier to scope, and have a wider variety of receiver sight options. At some point Winchester added a very ugly looking safety to the side of the receiver. These guns can often be had at a discount.

The Marlin 336 has a solid top receiver, and will typically have a pistol grip stock, although there are straight stock variants. It's easier to add a scope or receiver sight, and it's easier to disassemble to clean from the breech. It will generally be about half a pound heavier than a comparable Winchester 94. At some point, I believe in the 1980's, Marlin added a safety to the receiver that is no where near as obtrusive as the Winchester. I can give you all sorts of reasons why it's technically a better rifle than the Winchester 94, but it's biggest failing is that it isn't a Winchester 94.

I love lever guns and if the only center fire rifle I owned was a 30-30 lever gun, I wouldn't feel impoverished.

[Robinson]

I concur regarding aperture/ghost ring sights on lever guns -- they can make a huge difference. My favorite types were XS sights and Skinner sights. Installing them is usually very easy to do assuming the receiver is drilled and tapped.

I always enjoyed lever guns more than any type of rifle. Now that I only shoot suppressed because of hearing damage, I miss shooting them.

[JHC]

I’ve done a bit of site searching on the web, but figured I would toss this out here since there is such a diverse wealth of a knowledge base...

I’m looking for information on buying used leverguns. Winchesters mainly, but also Marlins. I’ve never owned a levergun, but would like to start. Like revolvers, I’m sure there are things to look for such as end shake, lock-up etc. I dont even know where to start. A few weeks back, I came across an older Winchester in 30-30. Well worn blue, octogon barrel, old Lyman receiver sight. Sexy as all get go. I did my best looking at it for the obvious but ultimately passed on it since in the words of Donald Rumsfeld: “I don’t know what I don’t know.” If such an opportunity arises again, I’d really like to take advantage of it on the spot. It was a gorgeous old rifle, and yep...it’s gone to another home now.

I don’t expect to have the info handed on a platter. Give me a good direction or two and I will hunt it down. Not even being faintly familiar, I have no idea where to start and more importantly, where to shy away from for info.

Thanks.

I have found this forum here to contain a wealth of info and experience. http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/

[HCM]

I concur regarding aperture/ghost ring sights on lever guns -- they can make a huge difference. My favorite types were XS sights and Skinner sights. Installing them is usually very easy to do assuming the receiver is drilled and tapped.

I always enjoyed lever guns more than any type of rifle. Now that I only shoot suppressed because of hearing damage, I miss shooting them.

You can suppress lever guns, in fact, Marlin is coming out with factory threaded lever guns.

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2...in-lever-guns/

The videos below are modified guns but show what is possible.

[Robinson]

You can suppress lever guns, in fact, Marlin is coming out with factory threaded lever guns.

Yep, I've been paying attention. I had actually thought about setting up a Marlin 336 XLR for suppressor use. Thing is, I always loved lever guns for the way they handle and carry -- and I wonder if adding a suppressor would spoil that.

Currently my only remaining long gun is a 300 BLK bolt gun because it suppresses so nice.

Thanks for your post.

[HCM]

Yep, I've been paying attention. I had actually thought about setting up a Marlin 336 XLR for suppressor use. Thing is, I always loved lever guns for the way they handle and carry -- and I wonder if adding a suppressor would spoil that.

Currently my only remaining long gun is a 300 BLK bolt gun because it suppresses so nice.

Thanks for your post.

Another video to check out - Practically tactical did a video on a new production Winchester 1873 .357 customized for suppressor use which was ridiculously quiet with .38 spl rounds.