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Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor advice requested

  1. #1

    6.5 Creedmoor advice requested

    I'm wanting a bolt gun. I used to shoot them a lot roughly ten years ago, but all I ever did was sit at a bench and shoot 5 shot groups. I'd like to do something more practical, like prone work and such, not just use bags on a bench.

    Anyway, I'm leaning towards the Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I'm trying to decide between 20" and 24". Other considerations are for the scope (scopes have changed a ton since back when I was at it and I was terrible about using too much magnification back then). Never even owned a bipod or a shooting mat, so that's an unknown to me too.

    I'm all ears, so fill my head please. Ammo will likely be factory for a while and Max range is likely to be 600 yards. Also, how is recoil on the 6.5 Creedmoor compared to 308 Win? Back when, I could shoot a 243 plenty, but 308 got old a lot faster.

  2. #2
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    Recoil was easily manageable on the 6.5mm CTR I shot. First few 5 shot groups I shot hung around .5-.6 MOA with ammo from this outfit called Prime, who load up match grade stuff.

    Factory rifle, bone stock with a Vortex Razor on top. It is a really nice target gun IMO a good gun for "tactical" long range matches.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    New Member schüler's Avatar
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    20" is fine and handy maneuver for 600y. If you think 1k and beyond is likely I'd definitely go 24" to wring all the velocity possible from the Creedmoor. Remember that all of the non-magnum .264 class can be hard to spot for as you approach 1k and beyond.

    The TAC A1 is a hell of a deal but 6.5Cm available only in 24". That said, for only $600 or so more you're getting a folding chassis, 2-stage trigger, brake and 3rd magazine. The magazines are compact for 10 rounders but spendy. Some guys don't like the cold or burn of a bare metal chassis in temp extremes. Last I looked the cheapest aftermarket folding chassis runs $700+ minimum.

    Scopes. Budget usually budget narrows choices for your application. Can you provide more info, like this from snipershide?

    Mats. Padded mat with stake loops or grommets so it doesn't blow away or up on you and the rifle. Triad checks all the boxes for me.

    Bipods. Still using an old TRG I lucked into, but the B&T Atlas and others are better optioned for half the going price of a new TRG. Nothing wrong with the old Harris, too.

  4. #4

    6.5 Creedmoor advice requested

    I bought an inexpensive Browning A-Bolt III Micro in 6.5 Creedmoor last year for hunting. I topped it with appropriate Leupold glass that I could afford (VX-3i 2.5-8). It’s my favorite rifle. Recoil is very manageable, especially compared to my .30-06. I would highly recommend reading Ryan Cleckner’s “Long Range Shooting Handbook”. It will answer many of your questions. His podcast is good as well, and he does discuss the 6.5 Creedmoor on occasion. And personally, I would keep the rifle as short and handy as possible and go with the shorter barrel. I don’t handload (yet) so I’m using Hornady Precision Hunter ELD-X ammunition. Hornady has several good factory loads, as they should, since they developed the cartridge! I don’t consider myself particularly knowledgeable about the subject, so I’m going to shut up now.


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    Last edited by LJP; 02-16-2018 at 10:39 PM.

  5. #5
    Frequent DG Adventurer fatdog's Avatar
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    my 20" CTR in 6.5CR only has a Vortex HST $600 scope but I can get to 1000 yards on demand, it is light and comfortable enough to carry into the field if you wanted to hunt with it

    my last long range session was around Thanksgiving but I was able to go 11 for 12 at 1000 yards from the bench....I know the one miss was just me, I don't think the 24" barrel would make it that much better

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    Last edited by fatdog; 02-17-2018 at 12:40 AM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by schüler View Post
    20" is fine and handy maneuver for 600y. If you think 1k and beyond is likely I'd definitely go 24" to wring all the velocity possible from the Creedmoor. Remember that all of the non-magnum .264 class can be hard to spot for as you approach 1k and beyond.

    The TAC A1 is a hell of a deal but 6.5Cm available only in 24". That said, for only $600 or so more you're getting a folding chassis, 2-stage trigger, brake and 3rd magazine. The magazines are compact for 10 rounders but spendy. Some guys don't like the cold or burn of a bare metal chassis in temp extremes. Last I looked the cheapest aftermarket folding chassis runs $700+ minimum.

    Scopes. Budget usually budget narrows choices for your application. Can you provide more info, like this from snipershide?

    Mats. Padded mat with stake loops or grommets so it doesn't blow away or up on you and the rifle. Triad checks all the boxes for me.

    Bipods. Still using an old TRG I lucked into, but the B&T Atlas and others are better optioned for half the going price of a new TRG. Nothing wrong with the old Harris, too.
    Thank you. 600 yards is Max range, there's only one range that I know of within reasonable driving distance that gets to 600, and none that make 1K.

    ETA: if a 20" 6.5 CM will make 600 easy, then the shorter handier rifle gets a lot harder for me to resist.

    ETA#2: regarding scopes, I'd love to have Nightforce. No way I can justify it, just not in the budget, and I'm going to end up buying this setup a piece at a time as it is.
    Last edited by Jared; 02-17-2018 at 05:05 AM.

  7. #7
    Frequent DG Adventurer fatdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared View Post
    how is recoil on the 6.5 Creedmoor compared to 308 Win?
    I put a YHM .308 compensator on my 6.5CR Tikka right at the start. It is like shooting a .243, nothing like a .308.

    I started with the Hornady American Gunner low end 6.5 factory ammo, 140gr BTHP since I did not own any brass and decided to buy the first batch of brass already loaded. It has been excellent and I stuck with the 140gr Hornady BTHP once I started reloading it. The target in my picture was shot with the last batch of the factory loaded stuff FWIW. I am sure you can ring more accuracy out of this rig than I can personally deliver.

    I think the thing I have learned on my excursion into the long range set ups are:

    1. 6.5CR when well loaded is good, practically cheating. The people who tell you to start with .308 to learn the basics, etc. are just wrong.
    2. While a nightforce and other high end scopes may be more suitable for invading a foreign country, etc. etc. the low end Vortex HST works just fine and is repeatable. If it breaks their service is legendary.
    3. Tikka CTR is an outstanding rifle and will hold its own against some that cost 2x or 3X as much
    4. To have an adequate 1000 yard rifle you don't have to spend $5-7K, I got there for less than $2K including the scope and rings and all of it.
    Last edited by fatdog; 02-17-2018 at 08:10 AM.

  8. #8
    New Member schüler's Avatar
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    There are so many options on scopes and intended applications for the scope. Take a look at the link from snipershide and help us narrow recommendations for your use and budget:
    http://forum.snipershide.com/threads...copes.6252657/

    At the outset, for the budget realities:

    For a variable power, zero stop, decent glass, first focal plane scope you can reasonably rely on you'll spend $1250 MAP and up (e.g., the outsourced Nightforce 4-14x SHV F1).

    The cheapest reliable scopes for dialing elevation would be the SWFA SS fixed power scopes at 10x, 16x, 20x at $300-400 You can find them used for a bit cheaper. You can step up to a zoom model or even better glass for $700-900. I like the 5-20x but it doesn't have zero stop.

    Everthing in between $400 and $1200 that is used a lot... well, you must accept the fact it may have to be sent off for repair or replacement. Some manufacturers offer lifetime warranties, so that may help hedge your bets for a more affordable scope.

    My personal feature preference list:
    - Reticle in first focal plane
    - Reticle suitable for application; some reticles are too fine for field use at lower magnification (but illumination can help that). Some reticles are too thick for target/square range use (but you can dial off center to help compensate). Choose the reticle that works best for 90% of your shooting.
    - Reputation for solid tracking if I am buying a scope I expect to dial; perform a tracking test AND parallax test on any new scope
    - Zero stop
    - Side parallax adjustment (aka side focus)
    - Illuminated reticle
    - Decent scope rings!

  9. #9
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    Oct 2013
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    Canton GA
    1) I recommend considering a Bergara HMR in 6.5 CM. I suggest it is a lot of rifle for the money. I see them on sale all the time - even Cabelas.
    2) I can feel the lower recoil of the 6.5CM vs the 308.
    3) My Rem 700 LTR 20 inch 308 with 168s is fine to 800 yards or so, I try to use 175s for longer than 800.
    4) I have run the 6.5CM out to 1200 yards on USPSA sized targets with no issue with 140 grain ammo factory ammo and reloads. H4350 seems to be "the" 6.5CM powder. Easy to load.
    5) Lots of factory 6.5CM ammo available - target or hunting
    6) I have been able to buy Vortex Viper PST Gen1 in 4-16x50 FFP and 6-x24x50 FFP used at great prices as other shooters "moved up". They serve me well. I have four of the VVPST Gen 1 FFPs with no issues yet - all bought used or refurb. There are better scopes out there but few in the $700 +/- range.
    Last edited by ranger; 02-17-2018 at 10:08 AM.

  10. #10
    Intended use and budget? Are you planning to reload for it?
    #RESIST

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