On HKs, should I count each time the anvil hits a new piece of gravel? I joke, I will check into it tomorrow.
On HKs, should I count each time the anvil hits a new piece of gravel? I joke, I will check into it tomorrow.
Taking a break from social media.
Shadow 2 and 1911, one.
Tanfo and PX4CC, two, first one corresponding to engagement of a firing pin block. A beauty of Beretta is that you can see the FP block getting moved up and you can correlate it with what you're feeling.
The Gen4 Glock that I an setting up as a CO dry fire gat, with 3.5 Edge connector and 4.5 lbs striker spring, is a giant looong wall of China, with bastions, alcoves, and wall cracks.
Last edited by YVK; 02-06-2018 at 10:43 PM.
Great thread/topic. So far I've tried two P07s. One is completely stock with little dry fire or live fire. Six in DA and two in SA (I think). The other has a CGW 18# (yellow) hammer spring and increased weight sear spring, four in DA and one in SA (again, I think). I'm going to keep messing with this before trying other guns to see if I get more in tuned. On a side note, I handed the stock gun to my wife who knows nothing about this. In DA she said she counted "at least" seven for the stock gun. I was just curious what somebody who doesn't shoot at all would say. For all I know at this point she's right.
G43- 3 or 4, multiple reps and I can't tell.
G19 w/Zev connector and SCD- 4
M&P 340 w/Apex kit- 5
In my most commonly fired G17 there are three distinctive "walls/stages" that I account for if I am doing slow precision fire. In a slow precision fire sequence, I do not pull all the way through the trigger from start to finish, but rather take up the two stages of "slack" very deliberately before I start my final trigger press. I feel the first stage, then the second stage and then I know I am at the absolute "wall" before the last bit of pressure before the striker fires. In this particular G17, the trigger is not standard, and I know this trigger very intimately and as opposed to my other Glocks that are not exactly the same, but I understand the differences.
Some people don't pay as much attention as they pull a trigger differently than I do, but IMO, for absolute precision, you should "slack out" or get rid of the final "take up" on the trigger before the actual final pull process starts. I also reset during recoil, which many shooters still don't get that concept. Of course, this is trigger dependent and a good shooter will quickly work this out for each weapon they shoot.
eta - sorry but I edited as I am not sure exactly how we are counting the stages, but I either have two, but no more than 3 stages depending.
Last edited by Surf; 02-07-2018 at 04:30 AM.
Step one is to figure out how many walls your trigger has, regardless of how you count them. Then you can consider how deeply you prep depending upon the difficulty of the shot. If you have five walls, determined by pressing the trigger incredibly slow, JJ isn’t suggesting you will want to prep through four, when shooting fast. However, you probably will want to prep through more than one wall as the shot difficulty increases.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Beretta in SA-1. Beretta in DA, I'll call it two for initial press and stacking to sear release. 1911-1.
"Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA
Beware of my temper, and the dog that I've found...