Lasers for serious use?

[BillSWPA]

I agree with HCM's comments.

My 'complaint' about most laser designs is that when paired with a WML, they put the laser down below the light. Then, if one goes for an intersecting zero, you get this angle that sees you off a whole heck of a lot more than you are on. I like the Steiner pistol specific version (PBAL?) as the laser is above the light. Unfortunately, there is little holster support for it.

While I agree that this not the best way to do things, if the point of intersection is 50 feet from the muzzle, you are still pretty close at 100 feet. Sight in during low enough light to see the laser at 25 yards, and you are still not off by much at 50 yards.

Lack of holster options is certainly one of the biggest impediments. The situation is not bad for tiny pocket pistols but leaves a lot to be desired for larger guns.


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[WDR]

I have never been a laser guy at all, and didn't find a use for them until I bought a J-frame. I've had a set of LG-405's on my J-frame for about a year, and have replaced the batteries once ( recently). I have not had problems with the zero, but I don't carry the gun every single day (but several times a week), nor do I shoot a ton of rounds through that gun. Maybe ~1000 rounds in a year. I find the laser useful in low light and indoors, which was my main reason for buying it since the fixed sights are marginal in good light, and useless in poor light. Without good sight options, the laser makes sense.

I also find the laser useful for dryfire and trigger control training. Which was, honestly part of the reason for the J-frame ( learning better trigger control).

[philpac33]

What about the Lasermax guide rod? Is it a viable option? Not sure I’ve seen them discussed, at least not in a really long time.

[TAZ]

This one intrigued me quite a bit. Tried a laser on my MP. Crimson Trace back strap model. Worked OK, even in the sun. Grip activated so nothing to dick around with during the draw stroke. Both my wife and I hated it. It REALLY accentuates the wobble. Having used an RDS fir a bit now and more importantly have a better stance and grip, the wobble isn’t as big and doesn’t seem to bother me with the RDS. The xc2 seems to have the laser closet to the bore than the other light combo units, but I worry about having to activate separately. IMO lasers need to either be constant on or grip activated. No time to fart around with turning stuff on while a sufficient threat is there that warrants drawing a gun.

[Robinson]

I've been contemplating adding a laser sight to my dedicated bedside gun. For those of you who use them, at what distance do you zero the laser and what relationship does the zero have with the iron sights if any?

[Default.mp3]

I've been contemplating adding a laser sight to my dedicated bedside gun. For those of you who use them, at what distance do you zero the laser and what relationship does the zero have with the iron sights if any?

I zero for POA/POI at 25 yards. Not great for precision, given the offset, but it's good enough to easily get COM hits in any reasonable distance (in terms of being able to see the laser, so probably out to 30 yards).

[BillSWPA]

I am generally happy with either 50 feet or 25 yards, depending in large part where I am shooting and the visibility of the laser at that time. If I sight in at a given distance with the laser offset from the barrel by a known offset, then at double that distance, it should be offset by the same amount in the opposite direction, unless the distance is sufficient for bullet drop to come into play.

At closer distances, the laser will not be visible with a good iron sight picture, since it will be obscured by the sights and possibly the muzzle. However, if I am bringing the gun up to eye level, I will know long before it gets there whether the laser will be visible at all in the relevant light conditions, and can choose my sighting system accordingly.

[Robinson]

Thanks for the responses.

In my case if I do install a laser on my HD gun it will be for use within the house, with typical associated shooting distances. In that case does it make sense to zero for 7-10 yards? Will the dot not be visible at that range? I'm not sure I get why the dot will be visible if zeroed for longer distance but not closer up. If that is true, then it must not be proper procedure to zero the laser based on the iron sight picture -- they are zeroed totally independent of one another?

[BillSWPA]

Thanks for the responses.

In my case if I do install a laser on my HD gun it will be for use within the house, with typical associated shooting distances. In that case does it make sense to zero for 7-10 yards? Will the dot not be visible at that range? I'm not sure I get why the dot will be visible if zeroed for longer distance but not closer up. If that is true, then it must not be proper procedure to zero the laser based on the iron sight picture -- they are zeroed totally independent of one another?

Indoors, the dot will always be visible. Visibility only becomes bad outdoors during daylight.

Zero for the longest distance you can given your shooting range and visibility of the dot as you sight in. At closer distances, the difference in point of impact will never exceed the offset between the barrel and laser.



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[Chuck Whitlock]

Perhaps the most annoying to me is the zero itself. It really only has a good zero in a very short window. By that I mean it is far off from the irons at most distances.[/I]

I've been contemplating adding a laser sight to my dedicated bedside gun. For those of you who use them, at what distance do you zero the laser and what relationship does the zero have with the iron sights if any?

Some time back, I believe it was Ayoob who wrote that he zeroed the laser parallel with the barrel. Thus, the POI was ~1 inch above POA for a 6 o'clock mounted laser, and ~1 inch to the 10-11 o'clock of a lasergrip. This should be consistent from muzzle-contact until bullet drop starts to happen. While, I don't currently use a laser, this makes the most sense to my brain. YMMV