I also have broken down the springs and pins into categories for rotation.
The springs are divided into those that affect safety or cycle of operation and those that affect trigger pull. I try to not replace the springs pertaining to trigger pull if not necessary.
Springs that apply to safety:
Firing pin block plunger spring: Every 25,000 or so. This gets dirty and getting stuck in the upward position would be dangerous.
Trigger bar spring: Every 30,000. The trigger bar needs to vigorously pop up to fire quickly.
Hammer pin retaining spring: If it is low or weak your hammer pin can drift out and catch on clothing, holster or skin. In .45 they can drift if not solid. I go by feel and height of top bar.
Slide catch spring: Depending on if you go to slide lock a lot, replace when weak (should go a long time)
Decocker (safety) lever spring: The firing pin helps stabilize the decocker shaft, but a strong, new spring will assist in keeping things in place.
Magazine release spring: It is strong and solid. Should last a long time (but watch the catch on the mag release outer housing).
Disassembly latch spring: I change this every 20,000. It is a thin spring and doesn't like being removed for cleaning.
If you are not sure of the spring's health and can't tell by feel, lay it down next to a new one and see if it is shorter or bent more.
Springs that apply to function:
Extractor springs: In .45 an overly tight extractor will impede cycling. Too light and it can jump off the rim of the brass under fire. While it is true that the extractor does not extract while firing (the brass pushes the slide back), the extractor's resistance directs the casing's clearing of the ejection port while ejecting. Beretta shaped the breech face in a curvature that will direct the brass in case of extractor breakage or failure. The PX4 is designed to work with a broken or missing extractor. I go by "feel" of the spring's tension.
Springs that apply to trigger pull:
Hammer spring: I try to make it last forever. Light primer hits will indicate a need to replace.
Trigger spring: The lighter the better... except... the trigger spring needs to briskly return the trigger forward fast enough for rapid fire.
Firing pin spring: The hammer strike must overcome it. I clean in the firing pin channel every 5,000 rounds and test firing pin fluidity.
Sear spring: This must be pushed forward by the trigger bar. It should last a long time. Indications of problems- failing to catch the hammer when cocking.
Pins: Drift pins should be permanent (hammer spring cap pin, sear pivot pin)
The hammer frame pin can get its slot for the retention spring worn. Indications are failure to hold even a new spring.
Decocker/safety lever pin: Every 3 times it goes in and out, I replace it. If too loose it can drift and stop lever movement. The older the levers, the more frequent the pin change.
Extractor pin: I try to go 3 or 4 times with it. The extractor smooths a path on it that can assist free movement.
The trigger pivot pin can look worn, but run a toothpick over it to verify that it is only the finish that is worn.
If anyone wants clarity or explanations of these details, let me know.
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Originally Posted by corneileous
