1911 Build Advice

[Mr. Goodtimes]

Like many shooters, I’ve always wanted a 1911. I’ve been mulling over it for years and Todd’s SACS 9mm only made my desire worse. Since I started becoming pretty serious about shooting (around ten years ago) I’ve owned a few different pistols from quality manufacturers, however, for the last five years I’ve exclusively carried and competed with a Gen 4 G19.

I shoot my G19 exceedingly well, however, I’ve decided I want a 1911, because I want a 1911. I do shoot them well, I’m aware of their limitations and quirks etc.... At least for a while this pistol will be my new carry and competition pistol, so it has to be functional.

While I’m not a walking bag of money, I believe in doing things right, but I also believe in not just throwing money out the door. Because this is going to be my only 1911 for a while, maybe ever, I’ve developed a list of pretty specific must haves.

Absolute must haves:
- 9mm
- No MIM parts
- high ride beaver tail
- ambi Safety (I’m a lefty)
- extended mag release
- undercut trigger guard
- front strap checkering
- round butt/carry magwell
- long trigger
- Light Rail

Would be nice to have but could live without:
- bushingless bull barrel
- front cocking serrations
- ball endmill cuts
- Adjustable sights

My first question is, what is the most economical route to take? The 9mm Colt CCU ticks most of my boxes, it would just need de-miming and maybe some edges cleaned up and refinishing. The Springfield Range Officer with the light rail is another good contender. The Dan Wesson Specialist is almost perfect except I can’t stand the way their light rail looks. I know that mat seem asinine but If I’m going to spend $1700 on a pistol I need to like everything about it.

Or... Would I be better off going the full blown custom route and just buying a pistol from Wilson or SACS?

Who are some reputable 1911 smiths? I have no idea what it would cost to have a reputable Smith do the work I desire but... I see Buds has 9mm Colt CCU’s for $1260, de-miming with all Wilson bullet proof parts would cost $600 in parts, which puts me at $1860, add in cleaning up the slide/frame edges and a refinish and I’m wondering where that puts me? I’m not looking to have the frame/slide/Barrel messes with at all, just the work listed above.

At sub $1900 for basically, exactly the pistol I want (with a pony to boot) a smith would have to charge quite a bit of money to assemble and refinish for it to push me into getting into something like a Wilson combat.




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[Up1911Fan]

I'd look at the DW Specialist and new TRP before the Colt.

[JTQ]

At sub $1900 for basically, exactly the pistol I want (with a pony to boot) a smith would have to charge quite a bit of money to assemble and refinish for it to push me into getting into something like a Wilson combat.

I don't really know, but I'd think you'd still be able to get a $4,000 Wilson for less than having a gunsmith work on your gun.

The other concern is many of the top gunsmiths have wait times measured in years, not months.

My last comment is the fear of MIM parts is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay overblown. However, if you don't like them, you can have them replaced.

[Mr. Goodtimes]

I'd look at the DW Specialist and new TRP before the Colt.

The new TRP can’t be had in 9mm though, or am I missing something?


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[RevolverRob]

My advice is a probably a little different. Go shorter in barrel length and size. A 5" Govt sized gun will be on the cusp of reliable with off-the-shelf ammo (particularly light 115-grain stuff and any subsonic stuff) and sensitive to recoil spring weights. Your best bet is to step down to a Commander/Champion sized gun.

In that realm, a Springfield Operator Champion would probably be the best base gun for a build (given the necessity of the light rail). If you're willing to go with a bolt-on-type rail (that mounts under a dust cover), then my choice would be a Colt Commander, modified for the rail. You - could try to find one of these Talo limited editions - http://www.taloinc.com/colt-firearms...ander-rail-gun

ETA: I forgot Dan Wesson - a Specialist Commander in 9mm - http://danwessonfirearms.com/product...ist-commander/ - Would be an ideal base gun.

Builders I trust -

John Harrison (Harrison Custom - http://www.harrisoncustom.com/)
Chuck Rogers, aka our own PistolWrench (http://www.rogersprecision.com/)
Jason Burton, aka our own Jason Burton (https://www.heirloomprecision.com/)
Stan Chen (http://www.chencustom.com/)

Best way to get what you want -

Nighthawk Custom - Falcon Commander with a Recon Rail Upgrade (http://www.nighthawkcustom.com/pisto...lcon-commander)
Wilson Combat - Protector Professional (https://www.wilsoncombat.com/2015-pr...-professional/)

[Up1911Fan]

The new TRP can’t be had in 9mm though, or am I missing something?


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Maybe not til SHOT next week, but yes, there is a 9mm TRP.

[Jim Watson]

I'm not qualified to tell you how to spend your money, but I have one comment:

- ambi Safety (I’m a lefty)

A southpaw hitting the safety every presentation needs a GOOD, STRONG, ambi safety.
I would not count on the ambi on my SA MixMaster semi-custom for anything but the rare weak hand string in a match.

Wilson and EGW LOOK good, I think better designs than the old Swenson pattern, and milled parts.

Well, two.
Said SA has shot many IDPA and USPSA matches with MIM hammer, sear, disconnector. I did have to replace the extractor and sear spring for function, magazine catch (taller) and MSH (with mag well funnel) for ergonomics.

OK, three.
I would be sure to get a gun with integral feed ramp barrel. My Colt has plain barrel and is very finicky as to bullet shape and OAL. My SA with integral ramp is verstatile, but it did take gunsmithing to get it there.

[shiv]

You really need to decide if you’re buying a gun or building a gun. Then are you building it or are you hiring it done.

Having a custom 1911 built is not cheap, not is the factory “custom” production guns like Wilson.

What is even more expensive is building it yourself as you’ll need tools and somebody to teach you or trial and error. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you will ruin a lot of expensive parts.

I think perhaps you’re on the right track purchasing a factory production gun. You’ll have the risk of a new gun that doesn’t run that manufacturer may be slow at repairing if they do at all. In the end, you may have custom money in a factory gun. But the good need of that many factory guns these days work great out of the box. I wouldn’t get caught up on little details. But if you like the Colt, go for it with the knowledge that it may or may not be adequate out of the box. I will second the Dan Wesson recommendation. Be warned, 9mm tends to be more fussy than .45. Good luck and enjoy the 1911!



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[vcdgrips]

At the sub 2k pricepoint, I would be looking at DW or SA. I think the collective wisdom is that DW is probably the best at exceeding the intersection of quality and value. I would also note that SA does an excellent job standing behind their guns and has a warranty shop as well as a custom to shop to solve any problems with wait times measured in days/weeks v. months.

A full blown custom gun is going to likely bust your pricepoint by a 2x mark unless you find someone unknown but talented. You will undoubtedly spend more than the 2k if you buy a base gun and try to do the work yourself which may or may not lead to a functioning gun.

[BillSWPA]

If you are going to be carrying it, consider a gun with a commander length slide and officer size frame.

Why a bushingless barrel? The bushing is softer steel than the slid or barrel, and is intended to wear instead of the barrel or slide, protecting both. When accuracy degrades, just replace the bushing.

If you are left handed, you want the right side safety to be wide. Otherwise you will not be able to get your thumb under it to put the safety on. Taking the right side safety off with the left thumb is easy regardless of thin or thick levers, but with a thin lever, you will likely find pushing the left side lever up with your trigger finger is easier.

I agree with the comment above re: MIM parts, with the possible exception of the extractor and perhaps the slide stop. Otherwise, MIM parts should not be cause for concern, and possibly not even with the parts I named.



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