My PX4 .45 ACP cleaning protocols
Another characteristic of the .45, compared to the .40 or 9, is how dirty it gets. To address this and keep things working well and smoothly, while not spending all of my time and energy cleaning, I have made certain cleaning protocols for certain intervals.
Range clean- This is designed to be done at the range. After shooting I wipe the outside of the pistol with barely damp paper towels, including the hammer face. Then, with the slide back, I use a wooden skewer to push a damp paper towel to clean the breech and feed ramp. Next, with the slide forward I clean the mag well and use a skewer to push a paper towel up to clean the center bar. Now it could be loaded with defense loads for the trip home without getting die-lube, carbons or transient grease on my defense ammo.
Range clean and regrease- For this I remove the slide after range cleaning and add grease to the frame rails and cam.
Field clean- This is the most frequent cleaning protocol. No solvents are used. It could be done in the field for survival for a very long time.
I will use barely damp paper towels. This is done by squeezing the water fully out of the paper towels, then laying them out between flat, dry paper towels and pressing them almost dry. They are so dry that a body builder, ranch hand, trainer that flips tractor tires and dead lifts small buildings (like @Storm SD ) could not get them to drip.
I use dry nylon brushes and skewers pushing damp paper towels. I especially get under the extractor claw and the breech. The bore is done with a dry bronze brush from the Beretta kit, then nylon brushes, finishing with a soft nylon brush from Storm SD’s SD box (don’t tell him). I then contort a paper towel into the chamber tightly and wring it out until it comes out spotless. Next, a dry patch.
Full clean- Done every ~2,500 rounds. This incorporates the use of Hoppe’s #9 to remove carbon build-up and soot. I use nylon brushes and an air compressor to remove the solvent. I do not use wire bushes outside of the bore.
When I was in Gunsmithing School, there was a sign over the bluing tanks, “Warning, if you don’t know what you’re doing, do nothing.”. Less dramatically, I advise caution in using an air compressor. You could push goop to where it was not and unseat little springs. If you do know how to manage this, it is effective. When cleaning the frame I use a thin skewer or toothpick to push a paper towel into the hole of the guide rod’s rear seat.
Detail slide clean- Every 5,000 rounds. I totally disassemble the slide (except the sights) and clean the firing pin channel, all interior surfaces and all parts. In .45, despite all efforts, you can get hard carbon build up around the breech. I use a dental tool for plaque removal. (Another, warning) If you are heavy handed, impatient or not detail focused, don’t try it. I do this because a wire brush risks rounding or deforming surfaces and the .45 leaves lots of carbon build up. I use the air compressor repeatedly to dry interior surfaces.
Detail frame clean- Every 10,000 rounds. I remove all parts, including the disassembly latch. I then solvent clean everything, including the inner frame. The air compressor is used here, too.
A word about KG1 from KG industry. In dealing with frequent hard carbon build up, I’ve sought better solutions. The rear teeth on the cam block can get build up. I use a little KG1, let it sit, and víolá, clean. If little hard spots remain, a tooth pick will pick them off. We use KG1 on my mags, as you read.
The limitations of KG1 use on Bruniton: I tried KG1 on the muzzle of my slide and wow! it removed all that carbon fast. However, it left behind a white film from its soap base that is supposed to rinse off, but doesn’t. It left a white cloud behind. Not even Hoppe’s #9 would budge it. I worked closely for a while with the owner of KG Industries to find a solution. Even KG3, which is supposed to remove KG1 did not get it all. He offered to refinish my pistol for free and was supportive, willing to stand behind his product, but I was not ready to lose this battle.
Storm SD is a Nutritionist, scientist and clinical analysis major. He determined the fat based residue, so we did a poor boy solution. Dawn dishwashing liquid (the duck treatment). That got it, over time. However, I don’t recommend extended use as water is introduced to the front sight.
Using KG1 on the slide was like having a mouse, so you got a cat to get rid of the mouse, then you get a dog to get rid of the cat, etc.. I just use the Hoppe’s #9 on the muzzle and it is slower, but way quicker. Bottom line- I advise against using KG1 on your slide.
Pistol round count: 35,500