This kit?Originally Posted by leathermaneod
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...t-prod796.aspx
I know I was the guy harping on "the right tool for the job" but I find the round clamp extractor rod tool and a couple of fire-formed empty cases to be fine. OMMV,
Yes that’s the one, in addition to the ejector rod clamp you linked earlier. The issue with fired cases is, I don’t have any, and I don’t want to go shoot the revolver before tightening the rod. Unless you think aluminum snap caps would be good enough? But they don’t seem to fit right enough in the chambers to really do anything, I figured the same would be true of empty brass....
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I find a 0.382- gage pin fits the chamber of my M&P 340 perfectly. A 0.383- enters, but doesn't slide all the way in. Buy two, so you can use them in opposing chambers across from each other.
https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Gage-...dp/B004THCIXM/
A lot cheaper than the Brownell's tool, and I think in this case, it's a better solution. The point is to minimize the freedom of the ejector to rotate, so fitting the chamber diameter as closely as possible is best. Check Amazon's price on the black and polished pins whenever you order them, as the pricing varies widely by size and over time, and doesn't necessarily correlate to size.
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Not another dime.
That’s awesome! Thank you for the heads up! Just ordered some.
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Last edited by leathermaneod; 01-21-2018 at 11:46 PM.
Great tip, @OlongJohnson
Well I finally got the ejector rod tightened back down using the tool from Brownells and the .382 gauges from Amazon. I got it hand tight, then almost 1/4 turn further before it started feeling like I needed to stop. The ejector rod seems like it may have just a bit more wobble now, but it seems to function just fine as far as I can tell. One thing I did notice though while dry firing, if I don't let the trigger reset quite all the way and pull it again, it will turn the cylinder without the hammer falling. Is that normal? Sometimes if I don't let it reset all the way, it just won't pull, but I've been able to replicate the turning of the cylinder without dropping the hammer a few times now. I realize that in normal shooting this is not an issue, because I will always be letting the trigger reset all the way, but I want to make sure that this is normal function and not an internal problem.
Thanks
Nate
THat is exactly normal. It is called "short-stroking" the trigger. User error, takes some practice to get through it. It may even be that under live fire, you won't see it because of recoil.
Thank you! Unfortunately, now it’s looking like I will actually need to send this in to S&W. I have been working on mastering the trigger, which is really pretty nice and smooth, though long and heavy. Well, all of a sudden, the trigger felt very different. Like something is stuck at the beginning of the pull. Like the timing is off and the cylinder is binding on the lug maybe? Or maybe something else internal, but it is definitely very different from how the trigger felt before and I’m sure it’s not right. It’s also almost completely consistent too. Really strange because the first time it did it, I had just switched to my off hand and I thought maybe it was me, but that’s definitely not the case. It takes enough effort to overcome the original sticking that I wouldn’t even be able to stage the trigger if I wanted to. It really sucks too because I was planning to go shoot it tomorrow.
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Last edited by leathermaneod; 01-24-2018 at 11:50 PM.
Just wanted to update this in case anyone is still following. I finally got the revolver back from S&W. They included paperwork saying they repaired the extractor, extractor rod, and yoke. All seemed well. The wobble in the ejector rod seemed to be gone and the trigger felt fine. I took it to the range and put about 100 rounds through it. Mostly 130 and 158 grain target ammo, but some sd loads as well. All was going great and I was doing better with it than I had expected, but then the trigger started acting up again. I asked one of the guys working at the range and he thought the timing was off. I took it to Norther VA Gun Works today on my lunch break to have them look at it. I didn't want to pay to fix it, but I also didn't want to loose it for another month just to have S&W send it back without fixing it again. This was my first time at NVAGW, but the gentlemen there, Sandy, was very helpful. He was absolutely disgusted/incredulous that S&W would send the gun back to me in its current condition (apparently to someone familiar with revolvers, everything about it feels absolutely terrible!). He said they will get it fixed right up within a week and gave me a very fair price. He says I won't believe the difference when he is done with it, so I'm pretty excited!
Last edited by leathermaneod; 02-28-2018 at 09:00 PM.
My 2016 date 43c took a trip back to Smith. It stopped cycling after less than 50 rounds of various high quality ammo. They told it was so FUBAR they were destroying it and sending me another. The second came with the same damned problem. I sent it back(a little testily) and it came back fixed.
That left me a little jaded about S&W QC.
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