How difficult is it to pull the cylinder? I wasn’t planning to take it apart at all...Originally Posted by Sidheshooter
Also, does this look normal?
Kinda hard to tell in the pic, but the leading edge of the barrel is kinda rough, and the immediate interior of the barrel looks like it has circular groves in it??
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Easy. Just remove the screw on the right side of the frame forward of the trigger. Take it apart, clean and reassemble by exactly reversing the process.
Last edited by blues; 01-16-2018 at 02:20 PM.
There's nothing civil about this war.
I appreciate your advice and you posting the link, as well as all the other comments and recommendations so far! I don’t think I’m comfortable enough with this gun yet to take it apart though, unless the consensus is that I absolutely need to in order to trust it. Seems like as long as it works and doesn’t have any issues, there should be no need to tear it apart right now.
So far I’ve cleaned it up a good bit. Ran some patches, polishing cloth, and bore snake through the barrel and polishing cloth and bore snake through the chambers. Still a little concerned by those circular grooves in the barrel though....
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Last edited by leathermaneod; 01-16-2018 at 02:46 PM.
Personally, I would shoot the bejeezus out of it first, then learn about the intricacies of Smith & Wesson disassembly later.
If and when you do decide to pull the cylinder and take screws out of the frame, make sure you get some high quality gunsmith screwdrivers to do it (like from Brownells). Ordinary screwdrivers can cause gouge marks on the heads of the screws.
Don't ask how I know about that, either.
Ordinary guy
Not sure its necessary, but you could send it to S&W and get that forcing cone cleaned up. When I got mine, brand spankin new, it had a nasty burr along the inside edge of the forcing cone and those circular markings like yours. I contacted S&W and got a shipping label and sent it back. They re cut the forcing cone and now it looks perfect to me. Not sure how the accuracy was before the work but it sure shoots dandy now.
Jesus paid a debt he did not owe,
Because I owed a debt I could not pay.
Well I already changed my mind and took the cylinder off lol. Do I need to clean off and re apply some of this loctite? Or is it meant to be reused?
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How difficult is it to pull the cylinder? I wasn’t planning to take it apart at all...
Also, does this look normal?
Kinda hard to tell in the pic, but the leading edge of the barrel is kinda rough, and the immediate interior of the barrel looks like it has circular groves in it??
It looks maybe *a hair* rougher than my own 642 (ya made me look) which itself looks considerably rougher than my 1976 all-steel 36-1 J-frame... but I wouldn't sweat it. The circle grooves are clearly present in my 642 and, with the caveat that I am no gunsmith, probably are leftover from reaming the forcing cone taper. I doubt that level of tool marking makes any difference in how it shoots. JMO. Maybe one of the hoary wheel gun kids here can say for sure. Stay tuned, I'm sure more of them will be along. In the meantime, get the holsters that @blues recommends, and go give it a shot.
And, yeah, it really is that easy to pull the cylinder assembly. De-cruding an old wheelie is a bit like re-springing an old trade-in Glock; a little time and a few pipe cleaners will do wonders for erasing the ravages of time.
Hey, I just saw the loctite pic. I'm not sure that loctite is used at the factory; at least, I don't recall seeing it on the handful of cylinders I've popped off. I'd guess that someone was inside that gun doing some smoothing at some point. Odds are: if it's an old wheelie, that's usually a net gain, IME. (if it's an old Glock, I'm not sure the same is always true). You have any more idea of which agency traded these in?
At any rate, the proof is in the shooting.
Last edited by Totem Polar; 01-16-2018 at 03:01 PM.
If I were you, I'd do just the first part of the video, which is to simply remove the cylinder and crane for a thorough cleaning. You don't have to perform the other services. Just make sure you take a toothbrush, brass brush or similar and give a thorough cleaning under the extractor star, all the cylinders, the cylinder faces and the barrel / forcing cone area. You can also clean and brush the top strap and breech face.
Do not pour CLP or oil into any of the "holes", there are only a few places that require a drop, like on the yoke / crane, hand etc. Look for videos or online instruction how to lubricate a revolver (without removing the sideplate).
It's simple. You won't break it. Just take your time and make it yours.
ETA:
Leave the screw alone. Just replace when you're done and ready to reassemble. Just tighten until firm and you're good.
Last edited by blues; 01-16-2018 at 03:00 PM.
There's nothing civil about this war.
My .02
Pocket holster: desantis nemesis
Aiwb holster: galco stow and go
Lube: slip 2000 on crane pivot and cylinder yoke
Speed strips: tuff strips.
Speed loader : Sl variant if ya got money and can find. Otherwise custom order 5 Star clockwise releases ( they default counter clockwise unless you call)
Cleaning: remember to clean under ejector star. Compressed air out firing pin, trigger, and under grip. I use toothbrush and compressed air. Never have removed a cylinder. Thousands of rounds.
Maintenance : check screws every cleaning last time I called was told hand right then quarter turn.
Trigger enhancements : send to Nelson ford or frank Glenn both in Phoenix. Well worth it.
Last edited by eb07; 01-16-2018 at 03:32 PM.
Alright guys I got it all cleaned and back together. Really wasn’t too dirty, but now the cylinder spins beautifully and without squeaking, same with crane. Only issue I had was getting the ejector rod to unscrew. Had to use a pliers. I put a good layer of masking tape on first, but still end up with a couple marks. Barely noticeable, but still. Oh well, this isn’t a show piece. Thanks again for all the help and encouragement. Now I’ll be looking into all of your recommendations for accessories. :-)
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