Tikka T1x RIMFIRE

[joshs]

I've now had two range sessions with my new T1x. Mine is setup for precision rimfire competition in a KRG Bravo chassis and Vortex PST2 5-25. The barrel looks really skinny in the KRG's massive barrel channel, but it still seems to shoot great. I've only taken it out to 200 yards so far, but it seems to shoot Lapua Midas+, CenterX, SK Match, and Federal UM well with a slight edge to Midas+ (all 50 yard groups with Midas+ were around or under .5" with the best under .25"). Haven't had the feeding issues mentioned here yet, but I'll certainly keep an eye on it.

I forgot to add that Tikka uses a weird thread spec on the T1x. Normally, 1/2x28 threads are about .4 to the shoulder for .22lr. The T1x threads are about .5. That extra tenth does not play nicely with cans like the SiCo Spectre II that use an o-ring inside to seal on end of the muzzle.

[GJM]

I forgot to add that Tikka uses a weird thread spec on the T1x. Normally, 1/2x28 threads are about .4 to the shoulder for .22lr. The T1x threads are about .5. That extra tenth does not play nicely with cans like the SiCo Spectre II that use an o-ring inside to seal on end of the muzzle.

I screwed on a Dead Air Mask and didn’t notice anything? My wife shot a gopher with the Tikka today.

[OlongJohnson]

I forgot to add that Tikka uses a weird thread spec on the T1x. Normally, 1/2x28 threads are about .4 to the shoulder for .22lr. The T1x threads are about .5. That extra tenth does not play nicely with cans like the SiCo Spectre II that use an o-ring inside to seal on end of the muzzle.

Facing off and recrowning the barrel is pretty straightforward if needed. T1x barrels are user-removable, so gunsmith charges should be limited to lathe work.


Function fixes I've found so far:

Set action screw torque ~20-30 in-lb.
Remove bottom metal, adjust magwell positioning backward toward trigger group.
Polish/break edges of chamber at breech face.
Ensure no obvious goofiness with mag itself.
Try different ammo.
Bend ejector wire.

Kissofdeath’s thread on bending ejector wire and shimming mag:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...g-mod.6990515/

Would love to find out if any of this helps @GJM's fast-cycling feed issues.

[joshs]

I screwed on a Dead Air Mask and didn’t notice anything? My wife shot a gopher with the Tikka today.

I don't think the Mask uses an o-ring to seal the muzzle. My Energetic Nyx threads on with no issues either. The Spectre II just barely shoulders up as the muzzle gets squeezed by the o-ring.

[joshs]

Facing off and recrowning the barrel is pretty straightforward if needed. T1x barrels are user-removable, so gunsmith charges should be limited to lathe work.

A number of people have reported that getting the barrel Torx screws out can be a nightmare. An EZ out and new screws seem to be needed in most cases.

Function fixes I've found so far:

Set action screw torque ~20-30 in-lb.
Remove bottom metal, adjust magwell positioning backward toward trigger group.
Polish/break edges of chamber at breech face.
Ensure no obvious goofiness with mag itself.
Bend ejector wire.

Kissofdeath’s thread on bending ejector wire and shimming mag:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...g-mod.6990515/

Would love to find out if any of this helps @GJM's fast-cycling feed issues.

Why not send a gun that doesn't cycle back to BUSA as a first resort?

[OlongJohnson]

George's comments a little while back are that his rifle cycles fine at casual rates of bolt movement, but when he runs it as fast as he can, then it jams. I would expect that sending it to Beretta would be futile, as they would operate it at "normal" speeds and tell him it's GTG without changing anything. Many reports are of Beretta returning rifles to people unfixed, even when their problems weren't associated with high-speed, low-drag .22LR operation.

[Crow Hunter]

I am stupid in that I like to keep common safety/operation wherever possible and the least amount of guns to meet my needs. I have a couple of Browning T-bolts (.22LR and .22Mag). They are lightweight, reliable and accurate enough for my needs with small game hunting, vermin eradication and plinking. I was looking to get a couple of Browning X-bolts since they have similar safety operation to the T-bolts, although they are not straight pull actions. However, I read very little about the X-bolts on forums. Almost everything is about Tikka T3X. The T1X shares the same bolt operation and safety location as the T1X so it seems like a good fit.

However, there seems to be a large number of complaints similar to those voiced here about feed issues, mostly ejection, some feed as well as some have stated that with their 16.5 twist, HV ammo usually throws fairly large groups/flyers. I really only shoot HV ammo (usually the cheap stuff ), I seldom use SV target ammo. I also only really read about people putting them into KRG Bravo (or other) chassis and using them for precision shooting. That really isn't something that I would be doing. I would be using mine as a hunting tool/understudy to larger caliber hunting rifles.

So I am in a conundrum (created entirely by me

Option 1: Keep the T-bolts which are lighter with a scope attached than the T1X is bare, accurate enough for me, excellent feeding/magazine, but different bolt operation from X-bolts. I would then purchase X-bolt rifles, that aren't really talked about online that much other than occasional complaints/help threads.

Option 2: Buy T1X and T3X rifles that have common operation and safety and sell the T-bolts. This gets me the well respected accurate and durable T3X rifle but adds a potential complication with the T1X feeding issues as well as a lack of 22 Mag option (although .17HMR is available).

Is there a 3rd Option that someone would recommend?

@GJM did you get your feeding issues resolved?

[GJM]

Nope still has issues when I run the bolt vigorously.

[RONK]

Crow Hunter sir,we've sold about 10 Tikkas with no complaints,you might consider Bergara as an alternative.