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Thread: Mindset of the best free climber in the world

  1. #11
    I suggest that while you should feel free to enjoy Honnold, and he is arguably the best adventure athlete of the last century or longer, you should not emulate him or you will almost certainly die.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    I suggest that while you should feel free to enjoy Honnold, and he is arguably the best adventure athlete of the last century or longer, you should not emulate him or you will almost certainly die.
    Yes, I agree. What worked for me when I learned to fly (paragliding and paramotor): Baby steps. It also worked with my motorbike on race tracks.

    As a quite general algorithm:
    Code:
    while (it's not too easy and not too hard and you enjoy it) // this is "the zone"
    {
      do it and keep a cool head;
      try to optimize how you do it, e.g. simplify it;
      memorize how you did it and what worked;
      add a small step to it, i.e. make it a little bit more challenging; // this is the "baby step"
    }
    Your mind is your most important tool. Use it and sharpen it. Learn from experts and your own experience.

    In paragliding school, we began on the ground and tried. Then we took a few steps up the hill. We repeated this until we could start, fly and land. In between we analyzed what worked and what not. Adrenaline is in the game. It can be fun and in the right amount it can even help. But always try to keep a cool head. Don't get into a rush. Don't make it too hard in order to reduce doubt and fear. While training, observe your own performance and try to improve it. Train with like-minded, reasonable people.

    The Japanese have a word for it: Kaizen. The Chinese have a similar term: Kung fu. In studying the pistol, it works, too. I like this stuff.
    Last edited by P30; 11-03-2018 at 01:04 PM.

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    South Dakota
    Inner Game of Tennis has a lot we can learn from.
    https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/...Game_of_Tennis

    An example:
    So now you are ready for reprogramming. Let your hand experience what it feels like to hold your racket with medium firmness. Show your wrist what it feels like to move in a full, flexible arc. Don't assume you know just because you've been shown; let yourself feel the wrist motion intimately. If you are in any doubt, ask the pro to show you the motion, not tell you about it. Then, in your mind's eye imagine your serving motion, this time seeing distinctly your wrist moving from a fully cocked position, reaching up to the sky, then snapping down until it points to the court on the follow-through. After you have fixed the image of your new wrist motion, serve again. Remember that if you try to snap your wrist, it will probably tighten, so just let it go. Let it be flexible; allow it to snap in an ever-increasing arc as much as it wants to. Encourage it, but don't force it. Not trying does not mean being limp. Discover for yourself what it does mean.
    Concentration is the act of focusing one's attention. As the mind is allowed to focus on a single object, it stills. As the mind is kept in the present, it becomes calm. Concentration means keeping the mind now and here. Concentration is the supreme art because no art can be achieved without it, while with it, anything can be achieved. One cannot reach the limit of his ability in tennis without learning it; what is even more compelling is that tennis can be a marvelous medium through which skill in concentration can be developed. By learning to concentrate while playing tennis, one develops a skill that can heighten his performance in every other aspect of his life.

  4. #14
    Alex talks with a psychologist about fear and how to handle it:



    My humble notes:

    Pleasure (of climbing and of some other dangerous things):
    - flow
    - discovering
    - gradual improvement

    Chosen risk vs. taken risk
    - preparation, training
    - control

    important: knowing what you are doing

    rational fear vs. felt fear
    - which to hear and which to ignore

    how to prepare for the unknown?
    - having a wide range of preparation/experience
    - visualization, e.g. think through the movements
    - positive and also negative visualization so that negative things in reality don't come up the first time for you

    weapons against fear:
    - preparation
    - knowledge

    tricks:
    - reframe fear as excitement
    - exposure as a safe experience

    Alex prefers the term "auto-pilot" vs. "flow"
    - Before the climb, he has done anything. So when climbing, he can just do it and does not have to think about it.
    Last edited by P30; 07-03-2022 at 11:08 AM.

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