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Thread: The Dos and Don'ts of a Bathroom Remodel

  1. #21
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    Definitely heed Daggaboy's and Hufnagel's words. Even though you're thinking of a small project Murphy will find a way.

    Every time we've gotten something done on our 1980's vintage home we hear something along the lines of "Huh, that's strange, wonder why they did it like that..." Every time. Windows, roof, gutters, water heater, kitchen, bath, decks, even landscaping. We laugh now when we hear it (to the relief of whomever just made the discovery.)

    Know your local laws when it comes to permits and code. We found that people in the business, who you would think should know, don't know, or will feign ignorance. If a permit is opened, make sure it gets closed. Otherwise it will cause problems down the road.

    When we did our big remodel we were told it could take 3-4 months to get the building permit. It ended up taking 8. We had ordered appliances & fixtures to be ready in 3. So it all sat in our garage while we waited. We were warned we might need a new electric panel. Of course we did, and new wiring. More permits, inspections, and delays. There were issues with the cabinets that weren't found until they were installed, adding a few more weeks. The real doozy was the sewer lines. But you get the idea. One thing leads to another.

    For shower fixtures I really like the ones where setting the water temperature is separate from turning the water on and off.
    Last edited by JclInAtx; 12-07-2017 at 02:52 PM.

  2. #22
    Learn a little about the work you want done before you interview contractors - it helps to eliminate know-nothings and corner-cutters. For instance, I didn't know much, but I did know you only want one ground fault circuit interrupter on a circuit so when the contractor wanted to add another I knew he wasn't going to be doing my work. For $5k I think I'd limit my effort to a tub/shower and re-tile, and maybe a toilet replacement. (OTOH, if I had a working 1.6 gallons per flush or more that worked I think I'd keep it - I'm not too happy with the 1.2/1.28 g/f that you can get recently.) I can't recall the details now - this was over 10 years ago - but there is a right kind of material to put behind a shower's tile and a wrong kind; ask what he's using at the interview. If it's the wrong kind, keep looking. Finally, know that there is no right angle anywhere outside a high school math textbook; your bathroom certainly has none (and no square corners) and your installers will have to make adjustments; maybe learn what they should be.

    It's also possible that you have been grandfathered into old electrical standards and if a contractor works on something he'll have to bring them up to current code. Be sure to ask when you interview.

    I really agree with the UnoZero - if you want something make sure it's spelled out in the contract. This isn't about contractors trying to skin you; it's about the person who's doing the work might not be the person who you discussed it with. In my case I wanted a shower knob that could adjust both temperature and volume and the contractor agreed; what the installer put on was the more common temperature-only adjuster. By the time I noticed the tile was already up. That isn't either the plumber or the tiler's fault - it was mine for not specifying.

    This isn't about being your own contractor - it's about learning how to buy services the right way.
    Last edited by Jaywalker; 12-09-2017 at 11:30 AM.

  3. #23

    The Dos and Don'ts of a Bathroom Remodel

    I used to be a superintendent for a high-end custom home builder. His houses are sought-after because they offer a great bit of integrity and quality of construction (along with all the fancy stuff.) shower drain pans are one of the biggest areas of concern, and where many people take short-cuts that end up costing folks a lot of money down the road.

    Since you will be busting out concrete (I assume) it’s a perfect time to make sure the shower is built correctly for the future. A lot of folks just build up a shower on top of the slab at the same grade as everything else. Either they plop down a fiberglass drain pan, or they start at the drain and float the tiles from the walls down with a slight grade to the drain. This can be problematic. The proper way to build a drain pan is to have a 2-4” recess built into the slab. At that point, the contractor pours a “monolithic” drain pan with a more aggressive slope to the drain, and extends with a lip up above existing slab grade.

    Might be clear as mud, but that method alleviates any issues with water intrusion down the road. I’d make sure to request a MONOLITHIC/POURED IN PLACE DRAIN PAN


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    Last edited by Crews; 12-09-2017 at 12:16 PM.

  4. #24
    Shortcuts under drain pans and tubs is where a ton of problems lie. We added several days and thousands of dollars correcting serious deficiencies under both the shower and tub. You run a ton of water daily in them, yet many builders half ass them.
    Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
    "If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".

  5. #25
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    I just bought a house. The central air had a leak. The drain pan was cracked the HVAC contractor said. Easy cheap fix. He was wrong. The entire HVAC system was wrong from get go. 5 ton air handler, 4 ton AC unit, oil boiler vented incorrectly leading to rust and failure. So the $250.00 repair is now estimated at $15,000.

  6. #26
    Install a good vent/exhaust system. Panasonic is the only one I will use thes days. Some of the big box brands are good for a few years but they start off with a slight noise and only get loader with time.

  7. #27
    Site Supporter NEPAKevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaywalker View Post
    (OTOH, if I had a working 1.6 gallons per flush or more that worked I think I'd keep it - I'm not too happy with the 1.2/1.28 g/f that you can get recently.)
    Some of the new eco-jihidi toilets are for all intents and purposes unisex urinals. I think it was Don Rickles as CPO Sharkey who said something along the lines of a proper toilet (head?) should sound like you are launching a torpedo.
    "You can't win a war with choirboys. " Mad Mike Hoare

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEPAKevin View Post
    Some of the new eco-jihidi toilets are for all intents and purposes unisex urinals. I think it was Don Rickles as CPO Sharkey who said something along the lines of a proper toilet (head?) should sound like you are launching a torpedo.
    We had one of those pressure assist toilets in our master bath when we bought the house. Yes it could probably flush anything, but it was loud, like a muted shotgun blast. Flush in the middle of the night and everyone in the house was awakened. It has since been replaced.

  9. #29
    Site Supporter NEPAKevin's Avatar
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    Last edited by NEPAKevin; 12-12-2017 at 02:43 PM.
    "You can't win a war with choirboys. " Mad Mike Hoare

  10. #30
    New toilets will only flush 1.2 or 1.28 gallons per flush, no way around it unless you bring one in from somewhere else. One workaround I recommend is the kind that will keep flushing while you hold the handle down. New ones will flush away material all right, but unless you get one in which the water circles the whole bowl it'll need cleaning much more frequently than in the past. Thus the need for one than continues to work while you hold the handle down while circling the whole bowl. And don't forget local parts availability.

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