Low light & flashlight work

[NH Shooter]

There are a metric butt load of lights out there. While I keep looking for someone to replace my preferred work handheld, it wasn't the 1K lmn new one I was using for the class; in spite of supposedly repeatedly getting it set to just High/Off, it kept returning to the strobe mode. I look for a solid, centered hot spot with a pretty uniform softer area around it and plenty of throw.

I feel your pain. After using Malkoff's high-low bezel switch for a while, I've become a huge fan of this simple mechanical UI: tighten the bezel for high, loosen it for low - zero surprises when the light is activated. My "programmable" lights are now left for casual utilitarian tasks, as are those lights that change mode by multiple pokes of the tail cap switch.

The "back splatter" of reflected light can be somewhat mitigated with a narrow beam, but for indoor search I truly prefer a wide, even flood beam with a soft edge (like the Malkoff Wildcat v.6). Outdoors I find the hard edge of a reflector design is not a distraction and a powerful hot spot is very useful. For outdoor work I have yet to find anything I like better than the Malkoff Hound Dog 18650.

Not trying to turn this excellent thread on technique into a gear discussion (or a Malkoff advertisement), but one should be aware of beam and UI choices, and the strengths/limitations of any light they chose to work their technique with.

[TGS]

Does no one (besides SMEs like Mike Seeklander and Mike Pannone) use a temple index for handheld lights? I see lots of mentions of FBI hold, neck index, cheek index, and Harries. I have found in my limited testing (as a layman) that the temple gives you a good reference point and keeps the light high enough to keep your sights illuminated and throws most of the light downrange while not lighting up the backs of your arms as much.

I use it, yes, but it illuminates the fuck out of you when you're using it from cover. I found it works better than other techniques when on the move (I mean moving).

If a temple or neck hold isn't illuminating you when you're peeking out from cover, that's a big indicator that you're not actually using the cover. FBI technique works a lot better from cover without illuminating yourself, ditto the Harries or cigar hold if you're sucked up on your cover.

[Erick Gelhaus]

The cigar/syringe/Rogers/SF was the hardest one for sudents to get "right" when it had to be spot on to burn through the incoming light. And it requires a hand set-up that few actually use when searching with the handheld.

Givens' documentation on his students' low light shootings should be considered when putting together training for off-duty, CCW folks. Likewise, better L/E data collection on our low light shootings would be really helpful for us.

I'm appreciative of most folks efforts to keep this on "how" rather than "with what."

The jaw index is better run for most a bit higher up the face - I've got pictures of it illuminating the back of an RDS when too low - but calling it a temple index is only only going to send some of the deep end ... maybe "Cheek Index"? I find I flow through the positions to get the light onto whichever side of the gun (cover) I need to get it at that moment.

SHO shooting and some manipulations definitely come into play here. Some of the variables worthy of more looking at are:
- Pistol upright vs canted in or even canted slightly out (individual dependent);
- Thumb up vs thumb down towards mag release? Does a frame mounted mechanical safety impact that?
- Pushing the pistol frame forward rather than pulling the slide rearward when reloading or clearing stoppages to keep the handheld light from bonking the shooter;
- How much hand, how many fingers can you get on the slide while dealing with the presence of the handheld (never mind keeping a lanyard out of the slide during reloads);

What I got in the academy (late 80s) was different from what Ken Good / SFI was putting out in '00 and the evaluations, advancements, & re-affirming of existing techniques that goes on today all make it interesting. And then each of us combines it with what we're seeing on car stops, per contacts, searching buildings & open air environments with our own light pollution issues.

[NH Shooter]

I'm appreciative of most folks efforts to keep this on "how" rather than "with what."

Post edited to keep thread on-topic.

[JHC]

This is exactly the kind of thread I was hoping would get started after seeing all the other threads about lights and lumens. I hope some of the SME type LEO’s will chime in quite a bit. Running a carbine with a light is definitely different than running a pistol with one. I have crap for experience with lights and pistols and I look forward to seeing where this thread goes and learning what I can. Thanks OP.

Yes this is a high octane PF thread. Much value.

[NH Shooter]

SHO shooting and some manipulations definitely come into play here. Some of the variables worthy of more looking at are:
- Pushing the pistol frame forward rather than pulling the slide rearward when reloading or clearing stoppages to keep the handheld light from bonking the shooter;
- How much hand, how many fingers can you get on the slide while dealing with the presence of the handheld (never mind keeping a lanyard out of the slide during reloads);

My practice is to just get the light out of the way entirely;

[TCB]

The temple, cheek, eye, neck (I’m just gonna call it FACE) index works pretty good if you need to shoot one handed. Most of the time when we’re searching for bodies / cutting sign the flashlight is being held near the waist with the bezle towards the thumb (I’m gonna call this the Hardy Boy’s technique), most people hide low & underneath things so having the light lower works better...transitioning between the Hardy Boys and the Face Index is pretty easy by just flipping the light 180 as you bring it up. I’ve also put myself on the clock and tried just letting go of my handheld and transitioning to the WML on my sidearm...that actually works much better for me...time wise and with better hits due to both hands being on the gun, YRMV.
Lots of Lumens with lots of throw is what I prefer for all my lights, I’ve been inside single wide trailers with white walls and lots of mirrors searching for bodies with 500 lumen WMLs (handgun & rifle) and never been blinded...the trick is keep the flashlight pointed down at a approximately 45* angle (low ready) and use the lumens & spill to your advantage (think hotspot aimed where the floor meets the wall). There is never really any reason to point a flashlight directly at something when your just searching. Once you have identified a target then spotlight and process it as appropriate.

[03RN]

My technique and experience mirrors TCB. I'd rather drop the handheld and fight with the wml most of the time. Especially since I'm not going to be using the wml for 99% of what a hand held gets used for

I've gotten pretty good mitigating obstacles when searching except when it comes to using a light in the woods. I get so much bounce back from leaves and such that I have a hard time seeing past the first layer of foliage. Any tips for that?

Should help us coon hunters shoot faster as well

[TCB]

The last AO I worked was triple canopy brush that was crazy thick...once I got a 1000 lumen Surefire Fury my life was made much easier. The lumens, throw and beam pattern really cut through the brush, grass, cacti and vines and allowed me to see folks tucked waaaay back in there.

[AMC]

Vertically and horizontally displacing the light as you move can also work to see past brush or other obstacles, such as furniture or boxes indoors. Intermittent lighting, and changing the angle, throws the light into areas where just one angle produces shadows.