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Thread: Revolver Problems

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Kalashnikovkid View Post
    I've got a bunch of deprimed and sized brass sitting around, so first chance I get I will try the chamber plunk test to see if they are being sized correctly and if they drop in without incident.
    You could also prime some cases and see what kind of results you get. It probably seems like a waste, but 100 primers is only going to cost $3. If the primers are not completely seated they will bind up and not pop reliably, the hammer pushes them the rest of the way into the pocket. And that would narrow things down on the cheap, depending on where you live (not in an apartment..) maybe not while being on the range. All the normal Be Really Careful stuff applies...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kalashnikovkid View Post
    When I first started loading, I tried (without gunpowder) seating the bullets into the crimp groove, but IRC the OAL ended up being shorter than the published minimum OAL (1.475") so I decided against it.
    With light loads this is low danger with 38, one of the advantages of the full wadcutters is they go in farther to reduce capacity for more complete ignition with light loads. Don't try that with 40S&W, but 38 is pretty forgivable in this aspect.

  2. #12
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalashnikovkid View Post
    Assuming they do, after reading Lester's post, I'm wondering if my COAL is just too long. When I first started loading, I tried (without gunpowder) seating the bullets into the crimp groove, but IRC the OAL ended up being shorter than the published minimum OAL (1.475") so I decided against it.
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by mmc45414 View Post
    With light loads this is low danger with 38, one of the advantages of the full wadcutters is they go in farther to reduce capacity for more complete ignition with light loads. Don't try that with 40S&W, but 38 is pretty forgivable in this aspect.
    Ive been loading since the 70s, Ive never measured the OAL of any revolver loads other than putting them in the cylinder and see that the bullets are not sticking out the front so the cylinder can turn freely. Just crimp in the provided groove. If the loads are moderate, its not likely to make any difference. For full magnum loads, Ive just crimped heavily in the provided groove, and worked up from a couple grains below, but never checked OAL. Having the bullet pull of a medium to heavy crimp in the crimp groove or canelure is likely more important than any specific length so long as they function in the gun.

  3. #13
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    I had an older pre model 27 that had issues with the trigger pull getting really heavy on some shots and not wanting to turn. Ended up replacing the hand it and all of the issues went away.

  4. #14
    Took me awhile to learn also that OAL is not hard and fast with revolver rounds. Just crimp to the cannaleur/groove and you should be good.

  5. #15
    Don't take this the wrong way... but how clean do you keep these revolvers? Do they have a bunch of lead build-up on the cylinder face/forcing cone or chambers?

    How do you clean your brass?

    CCI primers tend to be very hard. Winchesters are about the softest I've come across.

    If you bought a revolver used, check the face of your strain screw. I've had a used revolver where the previous owner dremel'ed off the tip of the strain screw in an attempt to improve the trigger. CCI primers were spotty, but Winchesters were working for me. Replaced the screw and all problems went away.
    Last edited by warpedcamshaft; 11-14-2017 at 03:33 AM.

  6. #16
    What do you mean by "squib"? The common definition is a round that sticks in the barrel. It sounds like you are having misfires where the cartridge doesn't go off at all.

    Make sure the primers are completely well seated, even below flush a little. Chambers must be clean enough that the cartridge will seat by gravity. When ejecting spent brass, point the muzzle in the air to keep powder from staying in the chamber. Make sure there is no crud under the ejector star.

  7. #17
    Site Supporter LtDave's Avatar
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    A lot of good advice so far. As to the strain screw, the end that bears against the mainspring should be rounded, if flat, it has been shortened. The screws for square butt and round butt guns are different, the RB one is noticeably shorter.

    As to your load itself, 3.4 grains of HP-38 sounds a little low to me. It sounds like it is not igniting completely, causing the unburned powder granules you observed and fouling the gun. This can happen with a light load of slower powders, especially without a good roll crimp. I’ve loaded a bunch with 4.4 grains of HP-38, which is still a non plus p load with 158 grain bullets. Crimp in the crimp goove, don’t worry about OAL. 3.5 grains of Bullseye, a faster powder than HP-38, has been a factory duplication load with 158 grain lead bullets for many, many years. When unloading revolvers, keeping the muzzle vertical when you hit the extractor rod will help prevent unburned powder from fouling under the star.
    The first indication a bad guy should have that I'm dangerous is when his
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  8. #18
    Name:  K & J frame family.jpg
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    Test picture of my revolver family.

  9. #19
    Yet again, stoked to have all of you fine folks helping me out! I'm a little starstruck having Hizzie, Lt. Dave, Bill Nesbit, AND Malamute responding to my thread. I've always enjoyed reading the stuff you all have posted over the years and have been inspired to continue pursuing revolvers because of this forum and people like you guys

    Anyhow, answers and an update in no particular order:

    1- By "squib", I'm using the conventional definition, meaning the round fires but the bullet does not leave the barrel.

    2- I checked all the strain screws, and everything is tight. I take no offense at the suggestion, but the guns are generally cleaned before they're fired (I do occasionally not do it). I pay special attention to the forcing cone ,underside of the extractor star, and cylinder face.

    3- My brass is wet tumbled in a rotary tumbler with stainless media. I dry the brass in a food dehydrator dedicated to the purpose. Brass is deprimed BEFORE tumbling.

    3-Following Lester's initial advice, I did the plunk test with cleaned and sized brass in a clean gun. They all dropped in easy. Miked 10 cases at .375 case body width, so the brass is being sized correctly. Loaded up 6 dummy cartridges with no primers or powder, actualling seating my Missouri Bullet Company 158 grain LRN in the crimp groove and roll crimping .005. Plunked them in all 5 of my guns and dry fired them a few times to see if they bind up- no problems. Loaded up about 20 rounds, and this is how they came out:
    Name:  Cartridges.jpg
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    Here is the load data: Cartridge Overall Length of 1.420+/-.002 (so about .060 shorter than the loads that caused me problems), CCI Small Pistol Primer, 3.4 GR of HP38, .005 roll crimp.

    I only have the Lee Loading Manual, but verifying off the Hodgdon website, neither of them recommend anymore than 3.7 grains of HP38 for a 158 grain lead bullet.

    If you guys think they look good, and the general consensus ends up being that though they are under the Lee manual's published minimum of 1.475 for a 158 grain lead bullet they should be safe to shoot, I'll go fire them this weekend and see how they do.

  10. #20
    Those are pretty revolvers. And those are pretty cartridges also.

    I'm beginning to think your powder measure is sometimes dropping light charges. I would clean everything in the powder measure and look for chunks of plastic or something like that in your powder and measure that could be causing light charges. Also make sure that your powder dropper activates properly each time. A buddy had a little piece of something in his powder measure that caused light charges occasionally.

    How old is your powder and could it be contaminated somehow?

    Your charge levels look OK according to some of my sources. Do you have any other powder to try? Is HP38 the powder that is the same as 231. I've personally found that 231 is a dirty powder. I use almost all Bullseye for my 38 Special ammo.

    edit to add: You said you might get rid of some of your K-Frames if you can't figure this out. Remember your friends here when you are ready to sell. LOL. You'll get this figured out and be able to enjoy your revolvers.
    Last edited by BN; 11-14-2017 at 06:05 PM.

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