OK, I'm a K-Frame Addict. So Sue Me.

[WobblyPossum]

This is really making me question trying to sell or trade my extra 19-5. I was thinking why use an older gun much when accumulating a higher round count might leave me with something the factory can’t make right because they don’t service the old ones anymore? Maybe I should get a current production version so the factory could always make it functional if I broke it. Now, after seeing all the frustration Stephanie is having just trying to get a gun that works out of the box, I’m thinking I should just keep the extra gun and shoot it. If I break it, at least I had a gun that worked while I was using it.

[Stephanie B]

This is really making me question trying to sell or trade my extra 19-5. I was thinking why use an older gun much when accumulating a higher round count might leave me with something the factory can’t make right because they don’t service the old ones anymore? Maybe I should get a current production version so the factory could always make it functional if I broke it. Now, after seeing all the frustration Stephanie is having just trying to get a gun that works out of the box, I’m thinking I should just keep the extra gun and shoot it. If I break it, at least I had a gun that worked while I was using it.

My two centimes: Shoot the 19. There are gunsmiths who can fix it if you break it. There is no guarantee that the factory can fix a current gun if you break it. Then you'll have to find gunsmiths who will work on post-2000 guns and my impression is that many won't.

Caveat: This only applies to shooting .38s in it. If you want to shoot regularly magnums in a K-frame, then you may have to roll the dice on a 66-8. Or find a good L-frame gun.

[Lester Polfus]

If you want to shoot regularly magnums

[Joe in PNG]

I think the sad truth of the matter is that to S&W, revolvers are now more of a historic and nostalgic retro legacy thing, not the working tools of law enforcement.

Why get too arsed about QC for something that's probably not going to be used too much?

It's stupid, but if I had a dollar for ever stupid decision S&W has made...

[Stephanie B]

I think the sad truth of the matter is that to S&W, revolvers are now more of a historic and nostalgic retro legacy thing, not the working tools of law enforcement.

Why get too arsed about QC for something that's probably not going to be used too much?

It's stupid, but if I had a dollar for ever stupid decision S&W has made...

Let's be clear about it: Gun #1 could not make it through a box of standard-pressure .38 range ammo before jamming. Gun #2 cannot be sighted-in.

If I wanted to buy a revolver with iffy QC, one that would break after a bit of use, there are ones that I could have bought for much less.

I wanted to buy a gun that would enable me to retire a couple of older K-frames, one of which is now into the near-stupid pricing to replace and another is getting there. I wanted to buy a gun that would go through a USPSA match and that I could shoot major-power-factor ammunition through it. I plan to use this gun. Not maybe as much as @03RN has used his, but up there.

[Wheeler]

That's a funny looking K frame...

[entropy]

Really disappointed to hear your latest experience...

Anxious to hear their response.

[awp_101]

Over on the blue forum, sumdood joined in to ask about his new Model 69 and whether he should shoot it. Seems that the barrel shroud is loose and, because of that, he can put a finger on the barrel and rotate it.

I have no intention of buying another new revolver from Smith & Wesson.

Your earlier 66 issues and shroud problems with the 69’s were in the back of my mind when I saw a couple of new 66’s as I was on the prowl for a King Cobra Target or 3-4” K6S today. Even though the odds are 50/50 one getting a bad one (or good one depending on your world outlook), after reading the latest update I’m glad I stuck to my plan.

It's stupid, but if I had a dollar for ever stupid decision S&W has made...

It’s not just QC issues, it’s production line and equipment setup choices as well. Hopefully I can post my experiences dealing with their poor choice of a particular tool for a non-revolver production line and what a headache it turned into tomorrow when I’m at a real keyboard.

[Lester Polfus]

That's a funny looking K frame...

I've almost ordered a 2.75" 66-8 just like Stephanie's a couple of times, because they have been sporadically available during The Panic. But my spreadsheet tells me the 66-8 is only a couple ounces lighter than a 2.5" or 3" GP100, although it is a skosh smaller.

Ultimately, I bought the 640 Pro first. As I mentioned, it works, but every time I look at the roll marks I hear a sad trumpet noise and I think "Yep. I paid $1000 for that."

I want a gun that is in between my 640 Pro and my 4" GP100. On paper the 2.75" 66-8 is that gun. I reality, I'm not so sure.

[kwb377]

I picked up a like-new (appears to be unfired) 19-3 Texas Ranger Commemorative Edition today at the gun show. I was looking for a shooter-grade 4" 19, but the only ones I saw were either scrap-metal candidates (for the same price as this one), or double the price. I don't collect commemorative guns and have no connection to the Texas Rangers...I was just interested due to the condition (it has some slight freckles in the finish on the sideplate).

Searching the S&W forum this afternoon, it seems there were 10k of these made in 1973...8,000 were sold in a presentation case with a matching Bowie knife, 1950 guns sans knife and case, and 50 with full engraving. Additions to the standard 19 were wide target hammer, smooth target trigger, smooth Target Stocks w/ Texas Ranger star medallions, a cut-away trigger guard, and a TR serial #.

I tried both the SA and DA action before purchase and all seemed copacetic. Once I got home, it started having intermittent issues with the DA trigger locking up. I pulled the side plate and all seems normal, but I'm not a revolver guy so {shrug}. The hammer/trigger/sear all seem to be interacting normally, and after reassembling the innards the action was working properly before installing the sideplate and cylinder. Once the gun was back together I started having the same issue again...and it works fine in SA. If I use finger pressure on the cylinder CCW, taking pressure off the locking bolt, it functiosn fine. Is this a timing issue? Any wheelgun vets that can point me on what to look for?