Yes sir, this one went out to Chuck Rogers for the golfballs and the build was completed by Jim Milks.
-Yost Gold Line Front
-Heine Slant Pro Rear Machined for one hand clearance
-EGW Carry Bushing/Plug
-Ed Brown Grip Safety
-Ed Brown Thumb Safety
-Stan Chen Maxibevel MSH
-EGW FPS
-EGW Extractor
-EGW Sear/Disco
-Harrison “Commander” Hammer
-Harrison Short Trigger
-Weld Refit Slide/Frame
-Weld Refit Barrel Hood
-Recrown Barrel
-Dehorn
-Matte Blue
Wow, Rogers-Milks. I bet that's a super-nice gun.
Per the PF Code of Conduct, I have a commercial interest in the StreakTM product as sold by Ammo, Inc.
^Thanks for all the comments
I haven’t put a round through it yet but I’ll say this I’ve owned and handled a LOT of high end 1911s and this one is at the top of that heap at far as fitment. The grip safety, thumb safety, locking/unlocking of the barrel are all extremely “precise”. As in bank vault solid with absolutely no perceptible play while still maintaining an extreme level of “slickness” that in no way inhibits handling characteristics, which is not something I can say of a lot of other tightly built 1911s. Obviously @pistolwrench’s golfball treatment is unbelievable in hand and Jim’s attention to detail and precision is out of this world.
I’ve got to say the two guns I’ve had built by Jims from PA were both great experiences.
I really like the snakeskin texturing Ed Brown uses, enough I'm not sure I really want to buy another gun with checkering. If I ever miraculously have the funds for a full house custom, I think I'm going to need to check out that golf ball pattern or something similar. It looks fantastic and seems like it would work about the same.
I also really like the super simple, no frills look on that gun.
This is my first 1911 without checkering, I’ve had 30, 25, and 20 lpi guns. This treatment is hard to compare to any but it definitely checks the aggressive but not overly so box. It has more “stay put” than 30 and 25 lpi for sure.
The build was spec’d to keep the performance “under the hood” so to speak. There are some design elements that would have been nice to have but I wanted to stay within a budget I set for myself and focus on what matters; reliability and shoot ability. I prefer blueing or parkerizing even though it requires more upkeep as it allows for enhancements or changes down the road should I choose and it also looks great as it is used. Ionbond/Nitride type finishes are better on paper but your pretty much stuck with the gun as is forever.
I bet most people would be surprised how much custom builds cost when compared to today’s semi-customs. The biggest difference is you will need some patience, know exactly what you want, be able to source a solid base gun, and find a reputable builder who’s accepting work.