Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 28 of 28

Thread: What do you think of this Model 10?

  1. #21
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Yes, those numbers arent serial numbers. In that area they were just assembly numbers until the 50s I believe. Ask if theres a hole in the bottom of the grip frame, and exactly what the barrel markings are, or as mentioned, pictures of that side of the gun.

    Saw this barrel in a quick look at gunbroker. 4" k frame nickel.

    http://www.gunbroker.com/item/695028745

  2. #22
    What about this revolver appeals to you? One the one hand, with the obvious faults, this pistol appears absurdly overpriced at $285. On the other hand, it is only $285, so if you want a project, go for it.

    If needed, you could get a new barrel and cylinder and then have a Pinto victory model. I think it'd look great with a blued cylinder and barrel.

    From a shooting perspective, the Victory models did not have transfer bar safeties until very late in production. Without a transfer bar, it's only safe to load 5 in the cylinder.

    In order to positively identify the important features, we'd probably need detailed photographs of the markings to determine whether it has a transfer bar and/or whether it was originally a .38 S&W instead of a .38 spl.

    Finally, the number on the crane are assembly numbers. The serial number is on the butt only in this model.

    Is this gun local? If not, there is no way I'd consider buying it. If the timing is bad or the there's a lot of endshake, this pistol is a lemon. Then again, it's only $285.....

  3. #23
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Its encouraging that the hammer, trigger and extractor star arent nickeled. That indicates its factory. Nearly all aftermarket nickel jobs plate those parts.

    Edit: ^^^ I think you meant hammer block, rather than transfer bar.

    The serial is on the back of the cylinder, under the extractor star, and probably on the bottom of the barrel also under the extractor rod.
    Last edited by Malamute; 09-17-2017 at 07:26 PM.

  4. #24
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Midwest
    Quote Originally Posted by john c View Post
    What about this revolver appeals to you? One the one hand, with the obvious faults, this pistol appears absurdly overpriced at $285. On the other hand, it is only $285, so if you want a project, go for it.

    If needed, you could get a new barrel and cylinder and then have a Pinto victory model. I think it'd look great with a blued cylinder and barrel.

    From a shooting perspective, the Victory models did not have transfer bar safeties until very late in production. Without a transfer bar, it's only safe to load 5 in the cylinder.

    In order to positively identify the important features, we'd probably need detailed photographs of the markings to determine whether it has a transfer bar and/or whether it was originally a .38 S&W instead of a .38 spl.

    Finally, the number on the crane are assembly numbers. The serial number is on the butt only in this model.

    Is this gun local? If not, there is no way I'd consider buying it. If the timing is bad or the there's a lot of endshake, this pistol is a lemon. Then again, it's only $285.....
    Err...it looks kinda neat?

    Really, I have no use for it. I just thought it looked kind of neat, maybe for pirate carry (outside the waist band appendix, preferably in a sash, because WTF not?)

    It's local.

  5. #25
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Midwest
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    Here's the response for s/n and numbers on the frame under the crane:

    4856?? and 335?? under crane

    http://www.armslist.com/posts/731527...-38-snub-nose-

    is the ad
    Ok, he said there's a "V" in front of the 4856. Also said there's a step in the cylinder, so that pretty much kills the interest for me. Thanks for everyone's input.

  6. #26
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    S. E. Oklahoma
    The big question is what is the caliber. I would look for British property marks or take a dummy 38 special round to check the chambers. Since the front lock is missing it wound need a ball detente lock up on the yoke. That's not a big deal to install. If I had the coin I would give it a serious look and I don't like nickel guns. Hope this helps.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    Ok, he said there's a "V" in front of the 4856. Also said there's a step in the cylinder, so that pretty much kills the interest for me. Thanks for everyone's input.
    I wonder if hes seeing the normal 38 special chamber step or the double step of a rechambered cylinder?

    The US used some of the 38 S&W caliber guns. Not all went to England.
    Last edited by Malamute; 09-17-2017 at 07:41 PM.

  8. #28
    BB,

    I already posted, but wanted to follow up, since I thought maybe I didn't express it clearly. This part seems to be missing, so you're down one point of lock up:

    Name:  zzz38splvictory.jpg_thumbnail0.png
Views: 166
Size:  28.9 KB

    You maybe already got it from the first post and are ok with that, but I wanted to exercise due diligence so you didn't get stuck with a problem. Good luck with it either way.
    Last edited by Willard; 09-17-2017 at 09:12 PM.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •