Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 28

Thread: What do you think of this Model 10?

  1. #11
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    How would I tell?
    If you can get the gun in hand to look at it, the 38 S&W is about the length of a 9mm, but slightly fatter than 38 spl. Looking in the chambers, theres an obvious step where the 38 S&W chamber ended, then another step where the 38 special rechamber ended.

    If you cant get to it in person, see if he will take a clear picture of the chambers.

    Found a picture, it shows it pretty well once you know what to look for.

    http://www.fototime.com/F07416FB0193628/standard.jpg
    Last edited by Malamute; 09-17-2017 at 06:49 PM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    How would I tell?
    Look at the caliber stamping on the side of the barrel. It should say 38 S&W Special CTG or something like that. Because the barrel has been chopped, part of that will probably be missing.

    Info here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-han...-your-gun.html

    Lots of hacked up guns out there. This is probably one of them.

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Utah
    Quote Originally Posted by Malamute View Post
    If you can get the gun in hand to look at it, the 38 S&W is about the length of a 9mm, but slightly fatter than 38 spl. Looking in the chambers, theres an obvious step where the 38 S&W chamber ended, then another step where the 38 special rechamber ended.

    If you cant get to it in person, see if he will take a clear picture of the chambers.
    It will also be marked "38 S&W CTG". If it's marked "38 S&W Special CTG" you're good to go.

    ETA: Beaten to it. And I'm an idiot; didn't think about the chopped barrel. Might not be useful.
    Last edited by scott; 09-17-2017 at 06:47 PM.

  4. #14
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunedin, FL, USA
    If it "was" a Victory model, the serial number starts with a "V". As noted by others, the barrel looks to have been cutback, the front sight is not factory, and the grips are not what shipped on a Victory. The lanyard loop is also missing.

    Is it worth $285? Depends on what is locking the cylinder pin at the front of the barrel. If nothing, the gun is not safe to shoot as the gun could easily unlock. If the finish could be stripped from the parts and the action did not cross Bubba's bench, it might be worth $285 as the action parts are valuable.

  5. #15
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    The barrel may have been changed to a 38 spl one, id take it all into consideration, barrel and chambers.

    Barrels turn up pretty cheap on gunbroker if you wanted to get a better barrel, and of course have been available from a number of sources in the pre-internet days.

    I think its probably safe to shoot, but definitely sub-optimal.
    Last edited by Malamute; 09-17-2017 at 06:55 PM.

  6. #16
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Midwest
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Nesbitt View Post
    Look at the caliber stamping on the side of the barrel. It should say 38 S&W Special CTG or something like that. Because the barrel has been chopped, part of that will probably be missing.

    Info here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-han...-your-gun.html

    Lots of hacked up guns out there. This is probably one of them.
    I meant from the frame/cylinder since the barrel may not be original, but Malamute addressed it.

    This is starting to look like a lot of potential issues, glad I asked here what to look for.

  7. #17
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    If you could get into it cheap enough and it wasnt a rechamber, it may be worth messing with. Barrels can be had in the $35 range. You could probably get it changed if you are handy, like get the correct longer barrel, or a good 2" with correct extractor rod.

    if you have a link to the sale or more pics, send it to me and I'll see if I can tell any more about it.

  8. #18
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Midwest
    Here's the response for s/n and numbers on the frame under the crane:

    4856?? and 335?? under crane

    http://www.armslist.com/posts/731527...-38-snub-nose-

    is the ad
    Last edited by BehindBlueI's; 09-17-2017 at 07:12 PM.

  9. #19
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunedin, FL, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    Here's the response for s/n and numbers on the frame under the crane:

    4856?? and 335?? under crane
    Those sound like assembly numbers, not serial numbers. There should be serial numbers on the bottom of the grip frame and the ratchet side of the cylinder. Also on the barrel flat when the cylinder is swung out to the open position.

    I would also ask for a photo of the right side of the frame. The rollmarks will help narrow down the gun. Right now, it is either a five-screw or a four-screw as we can see the screw for the cylinder stop in the trigger guard.

  10. #20
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunedin, FL, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    Here's the response for s/n and numbers on the frame under the crane:

    4856?? and 335?? under crane

    http://www.armslist.com/posts/731527...-38-snub-nose-

    is the ad
    The serial number is visible on face of the cylinder in the second picture, but I cannot read it.
    Last edited by farscott; 09-17-2017 at 07:24 PM.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •