What is something expensive you don't regret buying?

[Duelist]

Martin D35. There are few guitars I've played that would equal the satisfying intersection of sound, playability, and simple pleasure of owning and looking at it.

Guns I don't usually regret. But I'm glad I finally pulled my head out and bought a Beretta.

Knives - well, Spydercos were what I always wanted as a young man, but didn't think I could justify. I've had quite a few now, and don't miss the money. They are satisfying to own and use as well. There are more expensive blades, of course, and I have some custom fixed blades that are crazy expensive, but I carry and use a Spyderco and a SAK every day.

[Joe in PNG]

I built the below amp this summer- a 20watt Marshall Bass & Lead clone, all from scratch.
I usually build my own cabs, but don't have tools in the USA. So, with the proceeds from the sale of a guitar, I bought the Ampeg Portaflex 1x15 fliptop cab to house it in.
Sounds pretty good, better than the almost exact same amp I built in PNG.

[FNFAN]

My Springfield Professional. Knocked around Shot Show one year talking with the semi-custom makers and the Pro was the standout. Waited a few years for "just the right deal" and brought it home. A couple years later I'm just as satisfied with it.

This year will be a Submariner No-Date. Sold my GMT "Pepsi" model years back when I was having wimmen troubles and needed extra coin.

I try to follow the idea behind William Morris's quote: "Have Nothing in your home or life that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful!" but I do like quality machinery.

[gtae07]

I'm getting ready to buy an engine for my airplane. My dad and my wife are both strongly pushing me to go factory new ($5-7k more) instead of an overhauledt/zero-time engine, which itself is in the "new decent car" price range. I see their point, but the additional cost is hard to swallow...

I'm agnostic when it comes to tools, though. I'll buy cheaper than Harbor Freight if it's all I need to get the job done (especially if it's just for one project); others I get something good.

[That Guy]

I still have an early 90s surefire 6p with a whopping 60 incandescent lumens

Two words: Malkoff Device.

Not only is it a drop-in LED module that bumps the output of your light to 325 lumens while increasing battery life (And those incandescent bulbs weren't exactly long-life either... No more burnt out bulbs!), it also sounds all cool and streampunkish.

[cosine]

Weber Master-Touch kettle grill. Weber puts quite a premium on the lid holder, but it's really convenient.

[BobLoblaw]

I invest my money for the most part these days, but when I was 15 I worked the whole summer drying cars off at a car wash. My parents are self-starters and wanted me to see the world like they do. Anyways, I made a grand and with that I purchased a Warwick NT5 Thumb bass from sumdood in Ontario back when eBay was yet to be flooded with scammers. It's still the most beautiful bass I've ever seen in person. I sold it to buy my first car (a total piece of shit), which is one of the biggest regrets of my life. Here's an internet pic:

http://www.warwickbass.com/warwick/d...WBPOWWW_02.jpg

ETA: I made a couple hundred bucks on it when I sold it so it didn't hurt so bad at the time. I got a crazy deal and the next guy got a great deal. Still regret.

[NickA]

Weber Master-Touch kettle grill. Weber puts quite a premium on the lid holder, but it's really convenient.

I got one for Father's Day this year, absolutely love it. I was all set to buy a nice Weber gas grill, then decided to just get a cheap charcoal grill, THEN talked myself into the extra money for the Master Touch. It and a chimney charcoal starter have made grilling fun again for me (though I still suck at it).

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[MistWolf]

I'm getting ready to buy an engine for my airplane. My dad and my wife are both strongly pushing me to go factory new ($5-7k more) instead of an overhauledt/zero-time engine, which itself is in the "new decent car" price range. I see their point, but the additional cost is hard to swallow...

When I was a Director of Maintenance, I was responsible for one Enstrom and two Robinson helicopters, all powered by Lycoming engines. Continental engines differ somewhat in detail, but are of the same design. OTZ (Overhauled To Zero) engines should have new valve seats, valve springs and valves. Jugs should be honed and fitted with new pistons and rings. Engine cases, cranks and piston rods should be inspected and conditioned or replaced as needed and everything machined as needed to fit new bearings. Engine cases, cranks and piston rods are very durable and rarely need to be replaced short of something catastrophic, such as sudden stops (prop strikes) or being run with no oil pressure.

The number one failure I saw with the Lycoming engine was sucking a valve. Valve failures are generally caused by heat and build up of lead and carbon, all of which can be minimized by proper maintenance, using good clean spark plugs and using the right fuel mixture. Lead is necessary to lubricate the valves but a build up of lead and carbon, along with worn valve springs can lead to sticky valves. A sticky valve will eventually crash into a piston dome.

Detonation will also lead to valve failure. Detonation can be caused by carbon build up, high head heat, improper timing and running the fuel mixture too lean.

With the right equipment, overhauling a Lycoming engine (and I assume the Continental) is straight forward. An OTZ engine from a reputable shop will be reliable, durable and safe. When replacing the engine, also take a close look at your exhaust and heating system. They get porous and CO2 leaks through the tube and into the heat exchanger and then into the cabin. Also, have the fuel injectors overhauled or better yet, install new replacements.

Whether you go with an new or OTZ engine, follow the break in procedure religiously. A thorough warm up and cool down of the engine will extend the life of the jugs. Following proper maintenance procedures, such as cleaning the spark plugs and checking for sticky valves and valve spring tensions and carefully managing fuel mixture will go a long way to preventing sucking a valve. I know I don't have to tell you about the importance of regular oil changes.

A good OTZ will give you good service. Make sure it's overhauled by a reputable shop, comes with all certificates and all installation work is properly documented

[mmc45414]

I brought up my car, but probably more in line with this topic is my Aerostitch motorcycle riding gear. I have the two piece:
http://www.aerostich.com/suits/two-p...iece-suit.html
and bought it in about 2000 when they were only $800.


I have never regretted buying this and have never met anybody that regretted buying theirs.