Question on S&W "Lock" vs "No Lock"

[Pistol Pete 10]

I have 3 with locks. So far no problems due to the locks. The quality of the newer guns is not up to par with the older guns. With a little polishing and some new springs they can be made very smooth with lighter trigger pulls. That being said, I recently bought a new no lock 942, I also have an older 642 with the lock. I had to install a spring kit in the no lock gun to lighten the trigger pull. The no lock is now as smooth and light as the one with the lock. Both are totally reliable so far, I've shot the no lock more than the other one but both are as alike as two peas in a pod.
The no lock is my carry gun, the other is a car gun.
The gun with a lock that I've shot the most is a 625 JM. I added springs when I got the gun, it's a range gun, shot IDPA with it, it's put a lot of rounds down range, I guess it's my favorite to shoot.
The 625 and the 642 with the locks do not have the BUMP near the end of the pull, 686 and the 642 no lock do have it, I HATE it. Agree with Willie. It's about gone in the 642, I'll never shoot the 686 enough to wear it in.

[OlongJohnson]

Kept forgetting the key when I took it to the range.
Finally put it on my keychain so I would have it if needed.

You're the first person I've ever heard of actually using the lock.

These have a "floating hand" requiring less fitting to the trigger. If you notice a spot of resistance at the end of the d.a. pull, this bump(my term)is caused by this type hand. Usually it's not noticeable with a rapid and straight through pull. The vast majority of shooters don't know the difference. For older guys like myself who spent years shooting classic Smiths, milking the bump before it wears in is like kissing a fat chick with b.o. and bad breath but not quite as severe as a scorpion sting.

If it can "wear in" and go away, then a good smith can find it and get rid of it out of the box. It's just metal, not magic.

[ACP230]

I don't use the lock. But the gun so equipped is a .41 Magnum and
I wanted to be prepared if it locked up, on its own, with heavier loads.
So far, it hasn't.

[Sherman A. House DDS]

Is there a Smith that can remove the lock? Or more apropos, WOULD they? I know some Smiths can’t remove safeties due to their liability insurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fatdog]

WOULD they? I know some Smiths can’t remove safeties due to their liability insurance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

locally for me the answer was no, none were comfortable doing it, they would not, so I had to learn how

[Spartan1980]

As mentioned S&W's quality isn't what it used to be but they can still be fine guns. But with this in mind, I'd not buy one unless I got to inspect beforehand for the barrel being properly clocked, crown defects and forcing cone defects. Those seem to be the big issues today. As to MIM parts they actually are easier to slick up in that they require very much less work. Just a light polish with cotton fob and jewelers rouge, semi-chrome or flitz is all you want or need to do. Address any rough spots in the frame and setup the springs as you wish and you'll have a nice action. The last "lock gun" I had was 442. I just ground the nub off of the flag that engages the hammer and left it in. Never had an issue with it once I got that tiny spring back in properly.