Question on S&W "Lock" vs "No Lock"

[Screwball]

I paid a little more for a no-lock 642-1 back in 2008... and have been happy with it since then.

In regards to the lock, I saw one J-frame that locked up at a local range, which was being sent back to S&W. While the numbers of failures are very low among all of the lock guns, it is something I personally don’t opt for. Again, chance of failure is low... but a no-lock revolver doesn’t have that possibility of failure (not saying they have no chance of failure, just locking up from the lock failing).

I have been going back and forth with getting a TRR8, as I wanted a railed, light-weight, full size revolver. Can only get it with the lock, and I’m personally not a fan of removing things like that. Even with the plug, still have the hole and arrow (would bother me).

[ACP230]

I have one N frame S&W with the lock. It's a .41 Magnum.
Have had no trouble with it but do not like it.
The seller did not mention that it had the lock when I
bought the gun. Maybe he just forgot?

Kept forgetting the key when I took it to the range.
Finally put it on my keychain so I would have it if needed.
The trigger is good but not quite as good as my older
nickel-plated .41s.

The thing that I noticed was that the gun rattles. I
would prefer it didn't but can live with it.

[farscott]

Is there any concern that they will stop making parts for the pre lock guns?

S&W essentially has stopped manufacturing of replacement parts for older revolvers. Parts for common revolvers like the old M19 are not available from S&W. Rather than buy spare parts in the market, I recommend buying spare revolvers as it is less expensive and you get another revolver. Buying spare guns is my usual approach to keeping out-of-production guns running. As I get older, I seem to be finding more out-of-production items being used in my shooting.

[TCB]

Anyone have a source for a lock plug? I’ve tried emailing the guy on S&W forum who makes/made them a few times but never got any response?

[Velo Dog]

S&W essentially has stopped manufacturing of replacement parts for older revolvers.

Yep. I almost bought a pristine older S&W 29 until a quick Google search revealed how difficult finding a factory adjustable rear sight would be to replace the scope mount that the previous owner had installed.

[Willard]

Anyone have a source for a lock plug? I’ve tried emailing the guy on S&W forum who makes/made them a few times but never got any response?

Don't/won't own a lock equipped gun, but here are the only three sources for the plug I've seen:

Bullseye Smith, jlstack1@frontier.com

Ed Jennings, sighttool@gmail.com
Jennings Machine and Tool
205-533-2033
Edjs47@charter.net


J. Winland
P.O. Box 1755
Queen Creek
AZ 85142
azsaiga12@gmail.com or parts@originalprecision.com
480-305-3236
https://www.originalprecision.com

Hope this helps.

[ydennekb]

Another source for parts for older Smiths is Jack First Gun Parts. He makes parts for other out of production guns as well. I bought a hammer nose for a S&W 1917 and it works like a champ.

[willie]

Older S&W revolver frames such as J, K, L, and N share some common parts. The rebound slide and its spring are examples. K and N frames share certain parts. From memory I'll state that the trigger is one. Having owned and tinkered with these revolvers for almost 50 years, I'll go out on a limb and say that if a guy starts stock piling parts for them now, the task will not be difficult or too expensive. Buying them in less than stellar condition in order to cannibalize is one tactic. LSG, Mfg in Comanche, Tx is owned by Frank Smith who had owned a S&W warranty repair station for 37 years. He probably has a ton of this stuff. LSG stands for Lone Star Guns. Frank is one of the last highly trained Smith repair persons. He would be my first contact in this search.

[fatdog]

if a guy starts stock piling parts for them now, the task will not be difficult or too expensive. .

I think this is correct for the non lock revolver parts. I have been doing it for several years just finding sleeper ebay auctions. Once in a great while there will be an "estate sale" on ebay from a gunsmith's old shop inventory, etc. and I have found some smoking deals on spares from those. Caveat is you cannot necessarily trust descriptions and you may need to just know what you are looking at and only bid if there are good pictures that give you confidence.

I did this for about 5 years for the Gen 3 S&W auto's and have a pretty strong collection of spares, even including slides and barrels, that I probably paid 20-30% of what the Gun Parts Corp. going rate is for those items.

[willie]

Yes sir. That's correct. My reference was to the older revolvers only. With care to include no Dremel tool exposure, these guns are sturdy and trouble free. A hot load diet should be avoided. Also, hammers and triggers have a hard but very thin carburized(case hardened)surface requiring only the most gentle stoning. A heavy hand on a stone will ruin the part which is soft underneath. The so-called modern day versions with MIM parts and more advanced heat treating are stronger but not necessarily better. The older Smith revolvers have soul; the newer ones are ok. These have a "floating hand" requiring less fitting to the trigger. If you notice a spot of resistance at the end of the d.a. pull, this bump(my term)is caused by this type hand. Usually it's not noticeable with a rapid and straight through pull. The vast majority of shooters don't know the difference. For older guys like myself who spent years shooting classic Smiths, milking the bump before it wears in is like kissing a fat chick with b.o. and bad breath but not quite as severe as a scorpion sting.