I have three (2 five inch and 1 4.25) 2.0 pistols with gunsmith barrels fit by Randy Lee, and they are tack drivers. Significantly better accuracy than from the OEM barrels in those pistols.
I have three (2 five inch and 1 4.25) 2.0 pistols with gunsmith barrels fit by Randy Lee, and they are tack drivers. Significantly better accuracy than from the OEM barrels in those pistols.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Gotcha. I wondered if that was the case.Originally Posted by MD7305
Formerly known as xpd54.
The opinions expressed in this post are my own and do not reflect the opinions or policies of my employer.
www.gunsnobbery.wordpress.com
Slight swerve but is anyone got a significant # of rds. thru a comped 4.25" & if so what comp/details etc?
Maybe another thread needed for that or post here to keep things concise.
How is reliability with fitted barrels?
Perfect, which is not a surprise considering who fit them.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Background cleared yesterday. Got my pistol (4.25" FS). Apex barrel is now fitted. Trigger is very gritty on take up. It seems like an issue with extra material in the striker block from S&W milling the slide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGnPDjJCY1s
I'm debating on living with it for a few hundred rounds and seeing if it clears up. Anyone know if it will? If I go to all of the trouble of disassembling the SB then I'm just going to Apex it while it's apart.
I'm going to have to piss of the wife and leave her with the kids for an afternoon to go shoot this thing. Anticipation is getting to me. I'll do my best to post a 5 round group with and without Apex barrel at 25 yards off a sand bag. I'm not near as good a shot as most on PF, so that might not be useful info.
Last edited by MrCoachKlein; 08-09-2022 at 01:43 PM.
After deburring the channel, chuck that striker block up into a cordless drill and roll it against some decreasing grits of sandpaper and then some polishing compound. I’m seriously concerned I won’t see much of an improvement when I get my apex trigger after polishing all my surfaces up. It’s ridiculously slick afterwards.
What grit did you use?After deburring the channel, chuck that striker block up into a cordless drill and roll it against some decreasing grits of sandpaper and then some polishing compound. I’m seriously concerned I won’t see much of an improvement when I get my apex trigger after polishing all my surfaces up. It’s ridiculously slick afterwards.
Worst case scenario I get to buy the trigger I want
Going to shoot tomorrow. I'll post my best groups with each barrel at 25yd off the bags.
400/600/800 and then polished it on the bench grinder with a buffing pad. Looking back, I wish I would have spent more time on the face of the block but it was obviously hardened and I didn’t want to cut through it if it was only surface hardened. To me, it was mostly important to polish the sides where the trigger bar would ride on. I also polished the sear and all metal-to-metal trigger interfaces. It’s pretty smooth now. I do wish I could knock about 1-2 lbs off the pull and change the shoe. Then it would make me happy!What grit did you use?
Worst case scenario I get to buy the trigger I want
Going to shoot tomorrow. I'll post my best groups with each barrel at 25yd off the bags.
Going to have to go back on my promise to post pictures. I'm just not a good enough shooter at 25 off a bag for the data to be useful. I will say I shot 5 rounds 4 times with both barrels from the sand bag and the Apex did seem to group smaller. The main thing I noticed was the S&W barrel had 3 really wild flyers of those 20 shots where the Apex barrel had none that I didn't call on myself after the shot.
Even at my skill level, I was able to slow shoot a 10" plate at 45 yards with about a 70% hit rate off hand with the Apex barrel.
I didn't really notice the grit in the trigger while shooting. I'll probably just leave it alone and see if it works itself out. Thanks for the info though TOTS.
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