Finger fiddled a 35i at the LGS. Smooth, but a tad heavy. I'm thinking (based on my handling) that trading those springs will work.
Finger fiddled a 35i at the LGS. Smooth, but a tad heavy. I'm thinking (based on my handling) that trading those springs will work.
Bumping this up instead of starting a new thead.
Does anyone have any time shooting the 351 or any of the other S&W .22mag snubs? I have heard that the 351 has issues with ejection.
I have a 317 that I use for training, but I am really interested in one of the .22mags to go with my .22lr
Had the 9# hammer spring and 13# rebound spring installed in my 351c. I get about 2 misfires every cylinder (7rounds). Am on the hunt for a 10# spring that will fit. Will also try the light Apex firing pin spring to help with detonation. Otherwise its back to the original hammer spring. Speer Gold Dots perform best so far.
The word I have gotten from S&W, Apex and Bill Rogers is to leave the stock springs alone in the .22/.22 mag revolvers if you value reliable ignition.
For what it's worth - I wanted a 317 but didn't want to pony up $600+ for it so I just got a Ruger LCR22 for the same purpose for about $350. So far so good, 50 rounds so far. Should serve the trigger training purpose. It won't make as nifty a "kit gun" to pot the odd squirrel but if I want that very badly I can go Crimson Trace. It's ugly as sin though; unlike the elegant J frames.
“Remember, being healthy is basically just dying as slowly as possible,” Ricky Gervais
On the .22's you can change the rebound slide spring down several pounds from stock, without compromising ignition by retaining the stock mainspring. The factory rebound spring is IIRC around 17 lbs. I typically go down to the 14 lb Wolff spring without experiencing sluggish trigger return.